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did the lincoln rotors fit over the axle flange without grinding the diameter down? I know that my flanges are 7 inch diameter. I here dodge rotors from I think it's 85 to 2002 will fit over the flange, but not over the center axle part, so it wont sit flush with the flange. so the rotors have to be ground in the center to fit. It would be nice to find a set of rotors that fit without grinding anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by ted dehaan
Sam
this is what I did today. I finished the other spring mount, and welded the top plates onto the frame where they need to sit. I must have measured wrong, because when I put the axle on, the springs angle toward the center. I think that I can remake the lower plates that attach to the axle, and adjust the bolt holes, so the bottom mounts will go toward the outside about an inch each way. That should straiten them out. I wasn't sure if the springs would be enough. They are rated at 1500 lbs as a pair. as of now, with the full weight of the motor and trans, the front of the frame sits about 2 inches off the floor. I'm 300 lbs and if I stand on the front, it only goes down an additional 1/2 inch. They might be okay. if not, I'll have to change them, and maybe try to find ones with the same diameter and rated higher. I may take out the top adjustable part, and just put in a piece of 2x3 tubing there instead...and just adjust at the bottom if necessary.
Sam
I am using a pass. car 9 in so they fit like the factory built it that way you may consider changing to pass. axles .....ted
Thanks TedQuote:
Originally Posted by ted dehaan
I think I'll go to the parts store and measure a set of the lincoln ones, and see if they would fit my axles better than the 78 F150 4WD. I know mine came from a 71 ford truck. We don't have any places like the Pick-a-Part around here that I know of, all we have is the scrap yards, and they will sell you the whole rear end, but not the axles. They say that it costs too much in labor to tear them apart. I don't know what aftermarket axles would cost, but I think I might be better off to get the closest ones I can find and make them work with the axles I have for now.
Sam
I'm picturing a wooden tub body shaped by a wooden skeleton like the old wooden skiboats of the past were formed. Luan (mahogany) verneers can be laminated and screwed and bonded to the skeleton using clear West-Systems epoxies for a result way cooler than fiberglass layup.
For inspiration, here's a link to the works of second-generation wood skiboat builder John Miller.... enjoy!
couldn't find a link in your post, but found a site for John MIller Boats. I like them, but he definitely has better boat building skills than me.Quote:
Originally Posted by AzDon
I tore the 9 inch rear end apart today. The tag was missing so I wasn't sure what gears were in it. I drained it out and it had some water in, but it looks like it should be okay. there's some gunk inside that I'll clean out but the gears and everything look okay. So I officially have a Ford 9-inch with large bearings, standard case, heavy axles with 28 spline, 5 on 5 1/2 pattern, with 12-39 gears which makes it a 3.25 ratio. From what I understand, same rear end as in the 67-69 Fairlanes, but with larger bolt pattern. I'm told that with the 360FE, the 3-speed automatic, and the 3.25 rear end, I should get about 65-70 mph at 1800 rpm if I stay with the normal size tires, and not low profile or something.
engine $100
trans $100
rear end $ 60
springs (2 sets) $ 52
steel for frame $200
---------------------
total $512
I think i did pretty good so far. If I can do the front and rear disk breaks for less than $300, I'll be happy...which I think I can.
I have more pictures soon.
Sam
"The ideal personal car for any man or woman. With top down it is the raciest of roadsters; with top up the sportiest of closed cars." (from the 1933 brochure for the Deusenberg model J)
I definitely want one of these. I read that the stock wheel base for the Deusenberg was 142.5 inches. I measured the frame I have, and it's perfect for that. I would actually have to move the rear end ahead about 2 inches from where I planned to have it, but I won't have to change the frame any.
I'm sure I could do a regular model J, without a lot of curves, but I think i would LOVE to do one like the "morman meteor speedster". The original had a 1750 cubic inch V12 and held the 24 hour speed record averaging 153.823 mph. The original sold for $4,455,000 at auction in 2004. The pictures are of the speedster.
Sam
I like the single headlight, and the passenger side hand warmer!:)
I think the hand warmer would warm elsewhere if you tryed to step over it to enter or leave the car.:LOL:
here's a couple pictures of the engine. I know when they did some of the "unlimited class" records, they had an airplane engine in it. The earlier records were done with the V12. These apparently show a strait 8 that it has now.
I'm thinkin that I've seen pics of that car with people or objects of known size and that thing is huge like one of the "Blastolean" cars..... That body would be a huge undertaking with all those curvy panels.
actually, it was a standard 1935 Duesenberg SJ that was modified. It had the same 142.5 wheel base, with 19 inch rims.
I couldn't make one and have it street legal here in Michigan though, because according to the on-road vehicle inspection form required to obtain a VIN number, it is required to have 2 headlights if it has 4 wheels. Vehicles with 2 or three wheels are only required to have 1 headlight.
1935 Duesenberg SJ Mormon Meteor Speedster Specifications
engine Lycoming Straight-8
position Front Longitudinal
aspiration Centrifugal, Gear Driven Supercharger
valvetrain DOHC 4 Valves / Cyl
displacement 6876 cc / 419.6 cu in
bore 95.25 mm / 3.75 in
stroke 120.6 mm / 4.75 in
compression 5.2:1
power 238.6 kw / 320 bhp @ 4200 rpm
hp per litre 46.54 bhp per litre
bhp/weight 122.7 bhp per weight
torque 576.22 nm / 425 ft lbs @ 2400 rpm
redline 5200
drive wheels RWD
body / frame Steel over Steel Ladder Frame
front brakes Drums w/Hydrualic Assist
f brake size 381 mm / 15.0 in
rear brakes Drums w/Hydrualic Assist
r brake size 381 mm / 15.0 in
front wheels F 48.3 x 17.8 cm / 19 x 7 in
rear wheels R 48.3 x 17.8 cm / 19 x 7 in
front tire size 7.00x19
rear tire size 7.00x19
steering Ross Cam and Lever
f suspension Rigid Axle w/Semi-Elliptic Springs, Hydrualic Shock Absorbers
r suspension Live Axle w/Semi-Elliptic Springs, Hydrualic Shock Absorbers
weight 2608 kg / 5750 lbs
wheelbase 3620 mm / 142.5 in
front track 1425 mm / 56.1 in
rear track 1425 mm / 56.1 in
transmission Warner Hy-Flew 3-Speed Manual
gear ratios 2.485:1, 1.397:1, 1.000:1
final drive 3.8, 4.1 4.3 or 4.7:1
top speed 207.6 kph / 129 mph
0 - 60 mph 10.0 seconds
0 - 100 mph 20.0 seconds
epa city/hwy 10 mpg
got this info from another web site, so I am assuming it's correct. Also, this must be the current specs, as it says top speed is only 129mph with a straight-8 where with the V12, the 24 hour average speed for the 24 hour record was 153.8 mph.
Sam
The last time I went to the Hershey meet was about 15 years ago but I recall there was a guy there manufacturing full fiberglass replica bodies for Auburn Speedsters which also have a swoopy style. They look pretty good as the boat tail form but the bodies were not cheap so you need to look at the other thread on the "Roofus Special" if you want to fabricate a less expensive body with a LOT of innovative body work or try to find some person with an unfinished kit car body. I am just saying this to let you know there may already be 'glass bodies out there if you look in Hemmings or other "classic" builder sites. Another approach might be to look at plywood boat plans as viewed upside down. Depending on what you plan for fenders (or not) a 12' motor boat with a v-bottom might look pretty good upside down and those plywood plans usually involve only a few large pieces over a v-frame; the wood can be painted or varnished for a unique "woody" look! Just to let you know that I have also dreamed about various home made bodies but your welding ability could make it all possible. Have you studied the Roofus Special thread?
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Shillady
I don't really plan to do one as complicated as the "meteor". Just found it on a site about Duesenbergs, Thought it was interesting. Ive been wanting to do something a little different than a bucket roadster. I have about 145" wheel base and I've been thinking about one like a Duesenberg with the front and rear seat, or maybe a boat-tail. I've tried to build a couple wooden boats over the last few years, but never had room for them in my garage, and the weather ruined them before I could get the fiberglass over the seams, and the body covered with epoxy. I'm also not really that good with the wood working. I cut up my last attempt just last week, and took it over to my dads house to burn up, so I really dont want to look at another wooden boat for a while:whacked: I can weld pretty good. I have an ARC welder but I dont have 220 at my house, so I can only use it at my dads house. I also have a wire feed welder that I can use at my house, so I've been using it alot. I think my biggest worries is the compound curves though. so I'm thinking about something without alot of them. There's a website called hotrodders.com that has a bunch of guys journals, and a couple of them show some metal working tips, and building tips that I've been looking at, as well as the ones here.
I think if I make up my mind now on what to built, I'll more than likely change it 5 more times before I start the body. What ever I finally decide, I know it will be "different".:HMMM:
Oh yeah, and I have been reading the Roofus one too.
I'm working on my 4-point rear end right now. Making the brackets for the rear bars, the shock and spring mounts. I'll have a picture of it in a day or two when it's done.
Sam
Here's some pictures of the rear end and how I'm doing it. I ran out of 2x3 tubing, and I still need to make the mounts for the two top bars. I plan to make another cross-bar on the frame and mount them to it.
If you think somethings wrong with the way I am doing this, or if you have a suggestion, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!! I've been doing this based on what I can get, and what I can see that other people do. I've never done this before.
The first drawing is how I plan to do the mounts for the top 2. I'm not an artist, but I think you can get the basic idea.:whacked:
Sam
couple more pics....the 4 bars are "top links" from the Tractor Supply. They were alot cheeper than buying ladder bars or "4-bars" from online, and they're heavier, so They should be okay I think.