Ken been seeing that a lot myself they do look so much better . I kept looking at the 235s and they started looking like 15 inch on a monster truck . Ken you have a great 2 cents by the way :D .
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Ken been seeing that a lot myself they do look so much better . I kept looking at the 235s and they started looking like 15 inch on a monster truck . Ken you have a great 2 cents by the way :D .
One more good score today , Picked up the torque converter and flex plate for the AOD . Along with them cam a couple Ford aluminum drives shafts getting closer to locomotion here .
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Did a little slide over for a sneak a peek . Wow effect I get even undone .
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Worked at placing the rear end into position . I didn't like the large gap from tires to fender so I got them tucked up a little farther in .
This will also help me parallel the 4 bar level to the ground which has not been at all . So I will be working this over the next week .
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Bobby,
How are you doing that?
Ken
Make a little spacer out of 2 inch to lower front mount a bit . Other wise I will have to put the rear in the back seat , If I wanted to run skinny tires it would work fine .
If you have a Idea my ears are open , it's off about a 1 1/2 to 2 inches for level .
I'm not understanding what you are using the 2" block for or where it goes, sorry I'm getting old.
Ken
Top pick of the 3 . I will cut down a piece of 2 inch square stock and place it between the frame and the front 4 bar mount . This will add a little to frame on the bottom , and lower the 4 bar mount the amount I will end up needing .
The aperture of the pic doesn't show it but I have a lot of room to scrub line . Also the rear end is much higher now then in this pic so the add to frame will not be that thick . . My lines aren't the best but black line shows what I mean .
Well last night and today I learned a lot . The bars was too long to work with Heidts install directions . They interfered with the running board mounts . Been looking and mind working this a long time . They would only push rear end to far back if I followed them .
I ended up shortening the bars 3/4 s of a inch and added a 3/8 th spacer to the front mount to drop it down and make them level . I guess this is building a Rod but I figured Heidts had did all the engineering on this . More like a fit all kit and you have to make adjustments to get it working right .
I had the rear end as high as I wanted it , so this was my fix .
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Looks good ....... when it doesn't hit - cut & weld it!
RATTY 46
Would the spacer on the axle end of the rods (like lowering blks)work that way it would clear the frame and still put your axle up where you want it, I am just curious not trying to tell you how to do your car.
The seats covers look great, those are going to be good looking seats for sure.
Tony the axle is as high as i want to go with it , this will allow for 29 inch tires easily . the spacing of the front mount just needed a tad to level out the bars .
Up in the air again and shoeless . This will be nearing the end of frame work real soon . 4 bar link is in and solid in position .
Tomorrow I will start on the shock install , the one's I have right now are Carrera 15 inch open . I will test fit these to see how they will set . I have a set of 17 inch open coming soon and will try these also .
What is the maximum you can angle a shock as not to stress it and get the ride quality from it as designed . I was going to run a 15 degree angle but though the longer ones may need more ??
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Oh and welding on the second day has picked up better . This is a skill you need to keep up practice on . It has been month's .
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Ah ..... the welding IS looking better ...... make sure you go ALL the way around the hanger. Also don't be afraid to turn the heat up a notch. Whilst your welding the area you are moving away from should be a nice hot colored orange for a few seconds.
I do not have an answer for the shox ...... I've always drag raced and/or used stock locations.
REGS