Here's what my old '33 had. There should be some drain holes at the bottom of the quarter panel wrap under, just above the running board.
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Here's what my old '33 had. There should be some drain holes at the bottom of the quarter panel wrap under, just above the running board.
Thanks Bob. I'll look for it.
DMW,
Bob is right, There is a hose that runs the water to the quarter panel with weep holes at the bottom. The drain pipe on the original was also curved like Bobs', I didn't have a curved SS pipe so I am just letting the rubber hose take care of that.;)
Jack.
Since you're being so high zoot with materials I think you should refer to it as a "stainless elastomeric conductor".;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
Jeeezz Bob,
Now I have another word to look up.:p Thanks.
Jack.
Started some work on the gas tank cover. When I bought the coupe the gas tank cover was one of the few pieces not included so I bought a glass one. Still have the glass one but I wanted the all steel coupe to be "all steel" so I bought this steel one for $25 a few years ago and it needs some work.:eek::rolleyes: Did I mention that I'm a tight wad.;) Here are a few pics of what I have done so far. The patch is a little tricky as the parent metal is a little thin. I Tiged the patch in but I think I will try to Mig the final weld as I think a steady stream of filler wire will help me with the thin metal. Any opinions welcome before the final weld.:whacked: Also added some wall art pics. Anybody from Sacto know anything about the Pushrods?
Hiya Jack, heck a gennie steel '34 coupe,you lucky thing. It should be sharing garage space in my garage, yeah right.:LOL: I would continue with the tig as I find the mig leaves too much of a buildup of wire which is hard so that one ends up grinding away which also results in grinding away the original steel,IMHO. Can the panel be reinforced somehow where the bumpers bolt through the chassis??
Cool pics Jack, where`d you get the sacramento plaque from....?
Whiplash,
Thanks for the comment. I have thought of making the patch out of thicker material (.1875) but I was afraid that would push the cover too far away from the bumper bracket causing some panel or seam misalignment. However, at your suggestion, I think if I just double the thickness of the sheet metal (.050-.060) it won't be too much of a problem. I also might try O/A for the final weld as I think I can control the heat better with that.
Rich,
My father in law had that plaque hanging on his garage wall and I aquired it after his death. Don't know for sure but I think he picked it up during summer recess when he was a janitor at Hillsdale H.S. in San Mateo, Ca. He had some good stories about what the kids left behind in their lockers after school let out.:eek:
Jack.
As you may already know, that stress cracking comes about because of misalignment of the bumper bracket mounts on the rear spreader bar under that tank cover. Rather than mess with trying to fortify the cover I'd suggest you work at bending the tabs on the spreader bar so they are nearly right up against the back side of where you patched, I say nearly because I like to put some antisqeak material in there too. If the spacing can't be tightened up without a bunch of modification to the under brackets then some shimming might be necessary. It can be fun to get the bumper mounted straight on those sometimes.
The plaque looks like one of the local car clubs type. I see them on the back of hot rods around here from time to time.
Its an older car club that has`nt been around for a while, I`ll ask some of the older guys when I see them at the Tuesday night cruise. I live in Sac/Elk grove area I vaguely remember those from years back say 1970....
Bob,
Thanks for the tip. My reason for reinforcing the metal in that spot is mainly because the metal is thiner there because rust. I will try your tip on bending the bumper mounting tab to better fit the cover. I'm at the point now where I just hope I can salvage the cover.:rolleyes:
Rich,
Thanks for the info. Feel free to post any new info.
Jack.
Just an update on the progress, there has been no progress.:mad: Between the travels, yard work, a minor bathroom repair turned into a major repair and upgrade and other projects there has been no progress. After we get back from a week long trip to Idaho the bathroom project gets top priority. Maybe by mid Oct., oh wait, deer season starts.:rolleyes:
Jack.
I know exactly what you mean! Pretty slow progress on mine lately! Maybe this weekend I can make up for it. Have a great time in Idaho (my home state)!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack F
OK,
Made a little more progress (found a little spare time between other projects:rolleyes:). Made a new board for the rear window crank and hollowed it out for the crank. More pics coming of the shifter improvement (getting too late tonight, will add tomorrow:LOL:).
Jack.
Come on Jack, I'm sure that Barb would be keen to see photos of the new bathroom too!;) Is the channel that fits to the bottom of the glass a new aftermarket piece or a reproduction part??
Also I hope you leave that new bathroom clean after washing up??:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Whiplash,
The channel is a new 34 channel repop. A day late on the shifter pics but here goes. The shifter as last built wouldn't return the stick to neutral even with the stiffest springs I could find and I couldn't bore for larger springs because the housing wouldn't allow it so...I decided to add some meat to the shifter socket tower. Used some scrap bar stock from my stash, drilled a hole with the biggest drill I had then bored to size for a press fit to the top and bottom shifter ball sockets. Then drilled new holes for larger springs. I haven't finished this yet but thought I would show some pics of the process.
1st is a shot of the lower ball socket with old springs before the new ring.
2nd is lower socket with new ring.
3rd is the top ball socket with new ring + ring for lower socket
4th is a shot of one of the rings being bored on the lathe
5th is drilling top socket for larger springs.
Jack.
Thought I would throw in a pic of the shifter stick with the ball and shifter pin with ball end. Also a shot of the shifter with the tower off showing the guts. I know, what a mess:eek:. This shifter has gone through several changes but please note, all will be re-made made once I get this prototype working to my satisfaction.:) BTW, I turned the ball and the shifter pin with ball on the lathe with a ball turner that I also made. I made each half of the ball socket with a 1 1/2 ball end end mill, then turned the ball to fit. It took a lot of fitting.:LOL:
Jack.
Whiplash insisted I show some pics of what has slowed the progress on the 34.:LOL: The project isn't done yet but here is the progress to date.
1st is the new "curb". Old curb was rotted and leaked water to the kitchen below.
2nd is the concrete board put down for the floor tile + my helper Chloe.
3rd is the new curb with tile added + a little of the new floor tile.
4th is more floor tile.
Jack.
Very nice!:)
Very nice job on the bathroom Jack and Chloe,a master should always have an apprentice.:LOL: Funny how water can find the smallest hole to leak out but then makes the largest mess.:HMMM:
Thanks for the photos of your gear selector and how you are attempting something I could only dream of, you are a true craftsman not only at building cars but also bathrooms.:D
Great job on the tile Jack....and the car..
Steve and Whiplash,
Thanks for the kind words but I am just a novice in both fields. I am working in these fields out of necessity, there's no way I could afford to pay someone to do this for me.:rolleyes: Here's a pic of the tile saw I bought to help me out with the bathroom. I will save many times the cost of the saw and I will still have the saw when I'm done.;) For as long as it is taking me to do this it would even cost me more to rent one of these saws. Getting closer to finishing the bathroom.:whacked:
Jack.
Who`s the maker of the saw, I`ve got an upcomming project, honey do remodel bathroom,,,ok I`ve got three full baths...$$$$$$$$$:CRY:
Hi Rich,
It is a "Q.e.p." Bought it on Ebay from Northern Tool And Equipment, $349 incl. 10" diamond blade and shipping. It is from China but so far I am happy with it. It cuts slower than I expected but then I have never owned one before. After I finish this project there is another full bath, powder room and laundry room to do.:CRY: I suspect the 34 will get some attention again before I start on them.;)
Jack.
Thought it was time for an update. Moved back into the master shower just in time for Thanksgiving week, daughter and son in law came over from Boise for the week and needed the guest bathroom. Master shower worked great for that week. Day after D & SIL flew back to Boise guess what? OK, no need to guess, I will tell you if you haven't already guessed, big puddle of water on the kitchen floor. Back upstairs to look over the shower. All grout seems OK, no cracks and grout had been sealed with silicone sealer. Long story short, tore into the wall behind the shower to observe where the water was leaking. Through the grout. wtf? Turns out I bought the wrong grout, sanded, and not meant for showers.:CRY: Grout now replaced, carbide blade on my new Rockwell sonic master got a real workout. Now need to re seal the grout and put the shower glass wall and door back in place. Should get a test in a couple of days. Wish me luck.;)
Jack.
Jack did it leak through the floor pan under the tile, or from the walls under the tile?
Thats abit of bad luck Jack and very fustrating having to redo all your work again. When I was an apprentice panelbeater I hated winter time as the number of people bringing in cars to fix water leaks was huge and one could spend hours just trying to find where the water was getting in and then the people complaining about your charge out rate was to fix one little hole.
Maybe I need to build mine out of seamless stainless.....:LOL:
Steve, It is (was, I hope) leaking from the seam where the curb meets the concrete shower pan near the wall and the seam at the top of the curb at the wall. I'm not a pro at this but it seems to me that the curb should have been incorporated into the pan and made of concrete at the time of construction. Instead the tile man built the two layer pan with rubber membrane, so far so good, but he left the membrane hang out the side of where the curb was to be, built the curb out of 2x4s then brought the membrane over the top of the curb. This may have worked to a better degree if he had not nailed the membrane to the shower side and top of the curb with a 1/2 million nails. Also, the membrane was not brought up the side of the walls at all before the cement wall boards were installed so there was some leakage there too, although surprisingly very little.
Whiplash,
I didn't have to redo everything; What I did was remove all the grout from around the seam at the bottom of the shower and at the ends of the curb. I let the grout dry for two days then put two applications of silicone sealer a day apart. Tomorrow I reinstall the hardware, getting pretty good at that,
and give it another test.
Wish me luck,:)
Jack.
Yes I will wish you all the luck for a successful job this time my friend.
Good luck Jack. Hope the water issues are a thing of the past. I hate plumbing, it just makes a huge mess when things go wrong!:D
Ran the shower for 20 min. this morn. with not one drop of water.:3dSMILE: Will leave the back wall off for a week to make sure then seal it up. Then get some more work done on the 34 before starting the next house project.
Jack.
What a nice car you're working on Jack! A poncho in a ford ... how's that for cool .... not to mention rare? Keep it up.
Thanks Ryan,
For the kind words. The leak(s) are finally stopped but still haven't sealed up the back wall to the shower, painting the walls and ceiling have been taking up a lot of my time. I have been able to sneak out to the shop some though and have been working on the gas tank cover and rear fenders, along with a few house projects. Have taken some pics and will post when they are a little further along.
Jack.
Jack how ya been beside being very busy :) . I have been hiding in the engine thread for a while but lurked more then any thing . The shower looks great wish I had that attention to detail .
Hi Bobby,
Thanks for the comments. Well, thought the shower was fixed, didn't leak for 2 months. Finally closed up the wall and what do you know, very next day there was a puddle of water in the kitchen below. I am giving up on this shower and giving it to a pro to completely re-do as it should have been when it was built. I have wasted enough time on this project and need to get back out to the shop. It's not like me to give up on anything but I know to quit when I'm beat. I did get to do some shop work while waiting to see if it would leak, in between painting and also fixing some trim. Will take some pics of the gas tank cover and rear fenders I have been working on.
Jack.
The gas tank cover is a nice idea on the A . Thinking of making one for the Tudor . I know it is a lot of work but if I call it tinkering around shouldn't get stressed over it .
Glad to hear your getting back to a little shop time . The work on the frame and every where is looking great .
OK,
Time to update both projects. Insurance adjuster came out to survey the shower damage. Long story short, $6460.00 minus the $1000 deductible, will get a check for $5460.00. The pros will do it and this time it will be done right.:):) The complete shower will be removed and re-done.
Now a few pics of the good project. #1 and #2 is pass. fender on the welding bench with strip that joins the top 1/2 with the bottom 1/2. Had to use a strip about 1 3/4" wide to replace metal lost when I cut my 46 year old 1st attempt apart. It is mostly welded, need to grind more and finish up on the bead side, and that's why I don't show that side.;):LOL: Next is a repair of rust out on the same fender. This is on the backside where I formed and welded a 1/8 piece of metal to replace the doubled up metal that the running board bolts to. Next is the drivers side fender mocked up. Will need to cut more metal out to clean up edges and remove brazing from 46 year old 1st attempt. next is another pic of the pass. fender on weld bench and last is a pic of of rust repair on the front of the pass. fender. Needs more grinding. More to come.
Jack.