Thread: soda blasting

Tweet

just saw a video that used soda blasting on cars. looked great and alot easier than chemicals and sanding. is there an inexpensive way to convert my air compressor to a soda blaster. i looked at the kits and it looked like alot of money for inexpensive parts.

Soda blasting won't get rust off. I don't know how old your hot rod is but i thought i'd give you headsup in case you didn't know and committed to something that won't do you much good.

i am very fortunate in that i do not have alot of rust. i was interested in how easy it looked with getting paint off to the bare metal.

Originally Posted by jyardgirl

i am very fortunate in that i do not have alot of rust. i was interested in how easy it looked with getting paint off to the bare metal.

Barb - the problem with soda blasting is that many, not all, undercoats will not adhere well afterwards. Make sure what you plan on using is compatible with soda blast.

What happens is that the soda "hides out" in the tiny base steel microscopic pits and crevasses that happen after any media blast and wont allow proper paint adherence to the body panels - and you can guess what happens to your mega buck/hour paint job.

thanks dave that is the knowledge that i was looking for.

I asked a sandblaster/sodablaster who did work for us at the marina one time about doing some sodablasting on some sheet metal I had. He said exactly what Dave did, that he only likes doing it on fiberglass because it doesn't properly prep the surface of metal for painting. I've read since about adhesion problems when it has been done.

Don

i dont like coke and dont care much for mountain dew ... no wait !!! that`s a different kind of "soda " blasting

hoss you so crazy

anything that leaves an anchor pattern can warp a panel.

Here are a few links that may help you
the "IB mineral" in the second video is Aluminum oxide

http://www.ntruddock.com/
http://v8tvshow.com/index.php?option...=121&Itemid=70

thanks street.

I,too,have heard of too many issues with soda blasting,and dip stripping,,I have always used good old paint stripper,the best I can find,,which I have been using for 30 years,it might be a liitle slow,but after stripping,I wash the residue off with thinners,or prepsol,and use a 60grit disc on a soft 8inch pad,and carefully sand back to a smooth surface,and epoxy prime..Never had any probs,it just takes longer,but you are in control of the situation..A friend had a big double decker London bus done a few years back,,what a mess....it went every where and he had to spend heaps redoing his stereo system,and cleaning all the inside,as the operator didnt really take the time to be careful enough...AND the job cost him big time too..

thanks lamin i think that i am going to have to go with the old stripper and lots of elbow grease.

Originally Posted by jyardgirl

thanks lamin i think that i am going to have to go with the old stripper and lots of elbow grease.

Barb - WHY O WHY are you taking all of the old paint off? Is it cracked, peeling or just plain rusty. Then maybe, just maybe you might consider mechanical removal (use a D-A sander). This may more work then necessary. A good surface prep. i.e. 180/220wet, shoot some good 2K over the existing paint, epoxy the bare spots then sand (lots) with 320 - 600, then sand some more, then paint. Why make more work then necessary(unless you want bulging biceps).

There are downfalls with stripper as well - if you don't get it all off or some 'hides out' in a seam - instant paint failure. And at the price of automotive paints,

I once had a body dipped, Never again !!!