General Guide??

For a first project getting a plumbed roller will make life a lot easier! There are still plenty of challenges without dealing with suspension mods, boxing frames, WELDING<WELDING WELDING, did I mention Welding! :) A straight new body will save you a ton of time too! Now all you have to do is get an engine and transmission, a driveline that is fit to the length you need, tires, wheels, glass, instruments, choose a wiring harness, exhaust system, battery and battery box, depending on location, gas tank, radiator, fab hoses to fit your combination of unique parts, bumpers, lights, turn signals, interior, seats, carpet, linkages for your accelerator petal, choke, etc.., heater core, and ac if wanted, interior dome light......................you get the drift, not just slapping a few parts but lots of thought and expense. I wish I would have started where you are thinking of starting, and had the sense to ask these questions first! :)

Tire sizes I used are 195x65r15 comp ta fronts and 255x70r 15 radial ta rears--fronts are v rated for speed , rears are NOT--thats why I would go to a 17 rear is to pick up the speed rating

Most braking is done on front so I like the wider fronts, not the real old timey skinnies!!!!

I also like drum rear brakes as they fit inside the wheels nice, are sorta self energising so don't have the balance front/rear problems so bad and are easier to clean than discs---

I don't want a super low profile look. More of an in between I guess. I will probably go with a 17 front and rear. That is "low" profile enough for me haha. And I definitely like the wider tire up front than the original skinnies.

My aunt is the manager of a tire store here in town so I have the inside track (and pricing) on wheels and tires :D so I will be taking full advantage of that. I will be spending a lot of time on her tire and wheel simulator.

Check out the web site for Wescott auto from Oregon tech pages for frame measurements I think WescottsAuto.com

I took a look at that website and they do have all of the correct measurements that I need to start looking for wheels and tires. One concern that I have is the fact that I am 6'4".... Wondering if the cab is going to be a little on the smaller side for me haha. Is there anyone can relate and relay their experience to me?

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Originally Posted by kcs83

I took a look at that website and they do have all of the correct measurements that I need to start looking for wheels and tires. One concern that I have is the fact that I am 6'4".... Wondering if the cab is going to be a little on the smaller side for me haha. Is there anyone can relate and relay their experience to me?

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I'm 6'3" tall, and I positioned my seats in my '33 so that they go all the way back to the bulkhead between the cab and trunk which gives plenty of leg room. Head room is more of a concern, as well as seeing out without stooping over. I used Fiero buckets, as they sit only about 2.5" to 3" off the floor, maximizing my head room.

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Originally Posted by rspears

I'm 6'3" tall, and I positioned my seats in my '33 so that they go all the way back to the bulkhead between the cab and trunk which gives plenty of leg room. Head room is more of a concern, as well as seeing out without stooping over. I used Fiero buckets, as they sit only about 2.5" to 3" off the floor, maximizing my head room.

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I am in the same position as Roger. Same height and have the seats as far back as they can go in the 34 and will need to re-work the mounts of the seats to lower them to gain some headroom. The headliner is lower than my projection and I find it annoying to have my head brushing it.

KCS

please keep in mind that the 33-34 cars are 6inches longer than the 32s----and that relates to a lot more room inside the body---sooooo, you need to be looking at the differances between the 32 and 33/34s plus maybe something that doesn't have the roof chopped too much(or a roadster)

Jerry,

I was looking at the measurements on that website you referred me to and noticed that very thing. This has got me thinking that I need to look into going with a different year/style than I had originally intended. Sure am glad I decided to ask these questions BEFORE I started spending my money :D

Another question.... I remember reading somewhere that you can stretch the frame of a '32?? Is this true/cost effective? Or am I going to be money ahead to change to a 33-34? Just curious

There won't be a cost differance between the frames---well, the 32 may be a little more because of the reveal below the door area--suspension components will be the same--If you like the 32 grill better than the 33 type you could(if you didn't run a hood)(or did a custom hood)use the 32 grill shell on a 33 frame/body.

Putting the seats back towards the bulkhead hells a lot, however, as you lower them for head room you take some bend outta your knee/legs which then complicates pedal location--
If you look at the pics in my gallery you can see the 32 5 window car and maybe in some photos some 33s in the background(don't remember what pics are still there) At the time the photog was doing those pics I had the 32 the pics are of and a 33 3door coupe,a cabrilet and a couple roadsters in progress somewhere in the shop---was a busy period of time---customers would come at night to see how the build was going, spent hours there---3 or 4 customers a week drooling on different nights----

Roger- where did you get your 347 Stroker from? Or did you build it? And what about the computer system for it? Are you fuel injected or carburated? Thanks.

Kevin