Thread: '38 Ford deck lid vs 37 Ford deck lid

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Randy for sure I don;t think we can repair the sheet metal all the way out but learning with the disc will get you closer each time .

I have some area's on the 31 I surly want to try this out on .


b

Have you tested out the new technique on warming and cooling the metal ? I think I will short cut and just order the 4 inch disk . I have a few spots I would like to test it on . If I can get half the results these other guys get I would be happy .

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Have you tested out the new technique on warming and cooling the metal ? I think I will short cut and just order the 4 inch disk . I have a few spots I would like to test it on . If I can get half the results these other guys get I would be happy .

Yeah, Bobby, I adapted the disc over to my angle grinder which spins way faster. I ran it on high spots & doused it with a wet rag. It does work. I haven't been able to make it perfect but the skim coat will definitely be way thinner than before!

Last week I treated the back side of the inner support with Rust Bullet, because I had some. I'm coating both the inside of the skin & support before I spot weld them back together then I'll shoot the whole thing with epoxy primer. Maybe I can get to it this weekend.

Randy something the size of the area would take a skilled guy with the disc and most likely a torch a while . I am glad to hear there was results though . When we see them work the steel they are only doing small areas also .

I have about the same size about 6 inch diameter at the largest .

I am working 12 hour days right now weird schedule 2 off - 3 on - 5 off - 4 on , I am walking with a tilt .


b

Well, the neighbors are out of town this weekend so I got to make a little extra noise...

I did all the straightening to the skin that I knew how to do. I think I mentioned before that I coated the inside of the skin & inner frame of the lid with Rust Bullet because I had some. I tacked the pieces back together. This lid came without a latch & handle so I need to decide if I'm going to patch the hole and go with the remote cable latch I have or find an original type.
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After I tacked the pieces together I applied the Rust Bullet to the inside lip, too because it had some pitting. The Rust Bullet is supposed to permanently seal & stop the rust plus it has some metalic that helps smooth out the pitting. We'll see how well it works over time. Now I need to shoot the whole thing with epoxy primer.
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While I was at it, I decided to cut out the tailpan and see what I'm going to have to do there. I used a spot-weld cutter for the welds on the bottom edge and a cut off wheel for the sides. This pan has been replaced sometime in the life of the car and it wasn't the smoothest installation and it's apparently been whacked a few times since....
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I'm not sure yet but I think the tool tray is in pretty good shape. I have to spend some more time with the heat gun to clean off all that undercoating and see what I have.
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Yeah, I know this looks like used tin foil but I'm going to play around with it a little before I give up and buy a new one. I don't really have $600 for a new one so if I can master a few more metal working skills, maybe I can make this one decent. If I accomplish that, perhaps I'll also be able to walk on water & turn water into wine! I'll definitely need some wine by then!! As always, ideas & input are always welcome...
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Well, I guess I'll be your cheerleader again 'cause that lid came out real nice considering what you started with! Your doin' great and I'm sure you can improve the condition of the lower piece(s)!

What is this Rust Bullet your using? Have you used it before?

Watching you has me considering doing my uncles 48 F-1.. it's not near the level of work your doing, that's why I'm thinking of giving it a go.. we'll see what happens.

Originally Posted by 34_40

Well, I guess I'll be your cheerleader again 'cause that lid came out real nice considering what you started with! Your doin' great and I'm sure you can improve the condition of the lower piece(s)!

What is this Rust Bullet your using? Have you used it before?

Watching you has me considering doing my uncles 48 F-1.. it's not near the level of work your doing, that's why I'm thinking of giving it a go.. we'll see what happens.

Thanks, Mike! At least the "skim coat" won't be 1/2" thick in places like it was before!

As for the Rust Bullet, it's a rival product to POR15. I've used it on a couple of things and it seems to be pretty strong I guess. I'm not totally convinced that any of these types of products are any better than a good epoxy primer but since I had a can of this and it's brushable, I decided to try it on these inner parts. Here's a link: Car Rust Protection, Repair, Prevention by automotive car paint

The '48 F1 sounds fun. Got any pics? What are the plans for it?

Originally Posted by randyr

Thanks, Mike! At least the "skim coat" won't be 1/2" thick in places like it was before!

As for the Rust Bullet, it's a rival product to POR15. I've used it on a couple of things and it seems to be pretty strong I guess. I'm not totally convinced that any of these types of products are any better than a good epoxy primer but since I had a can of this and it's brushable, I decided to try it on these inner parts. Here's a link: Car Rust Protection, Repair, Prevention by automotive car paint

The '48 F1 sounds fun. Got any pics? What are the plans for it?

When it's called a skim coat, it really should be IMHO..

I'm not sold on products like POR15.. just skeptical by nature.. I wonder what really happens under the covering??

The 48 F-1 is my Uncles P.U., it has some rust coming through and I'm sure the bondo is/was as thick as what was on the back of your car.. maybe WORSE! Pics? No, not yet. I'll need to let my uncle decide if he wants me to tackle this (probably) over the winter, while he's vacationing in Florida.

Originally Posted by 34_40

When it's called a skim coat, it really should be IMHO..

I'm not sold on products like POR15.. just skeptical by nature.. I wonder what really happens under the covering??

The 48 F-1 is my Uncles P.U., it has some rust coming through and I'm sure the bondo is/was as thick as what was on the back of your car.. maybe WORSE! Pics? No, not yet. I'll need to let my uncle decide if he wants me to tackle this (probably) over the winter, while he's vacationing in Florida.

I hear ya on all of the above!! However, since rust kinda needs air & moisture to grow, if the product seals it completely and if it's not too far gone to begin with, maybe it works out ok for some areas, especially when replacement parts aren't readily available. I'll let you know in a few years....

Here's a couple of pics of an F1 I saw last year at the F100 Western Nationals. I really liked everything about it except the Chevy engine....
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Randy - I'm with Mike on the POR15/Rust Bullet skepticism. I feel that it will slow down the rust process, but the very fact that rust is iron oxide (Fe2O3)says that the entrained oxygen and ANY free water molecules, will continue eating, tho at a slower rate - unless there is significant water droplets, then it goes fast.

Originally Posted by randyr

Here's a couple of pics of an F1 I saw last year at the F100 Western Nationals. I really liked everything about it except the Chevy engine....

Hey, thanks for those pics! That is one NICE ride! With that shiny radiator, you can't even see a bow tie!

Randy those are copy cats , Rockets and Westerns I have em for rolling stock , kept them from the Mustang . This will be barn stock for a while , mustang then 31 . Of course the rear 60's clear the cougar and not the mustang wheel wells .

Randy the work on the lid is great , you did take it to a skim and thats great . I think a English wheel would make the panel work a lot easier . I think one of these days I will get one from H F .

b

Do any of you guys spray acid on the rust after you sand blast it and such to help stop it dead in it's tracks? That's what I do. My old boss uses this method in his bod shop.

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

Do any of you guys spray acid on the rust after you sand blast it and such to help stop it dead in it's tracks? That's what I do. My old boss uses this method in his bod shop.

Yeah, Ryan, I've heard a variety of old school methods of treating rust but something we have to be careful of now-a-days is some of the new paint systems won't stick to some of those old school remedies, so it's a good idea to do a lot of research and ask the paint guys before hand. I know the guy who owns SPI (Southern Polyurethanes) is not a fan of any product coming between the metal & his product.

I have seen the muaratic acid (sp) used but it needs washed of quick with soap and water . I would rather keep the metal dry and use a better top coat for it . Any time you get the metal wet you have induced it a reason to rust .