Getting close to a fire-up I'm thinking! LOL..
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Getting close to a fire-up I'm thinking! LOL..
I wish....... :LOL:
There's still a lot before that can happen. Since Chrysler was so kind to use the torque converter to mount the ring gear to, I won't be able to fire the engine until the trans is rebuilt. I decided to have my Dad do that for me. I wanted to do it myself but time is running out. Once I get the rear air bag mounts installed and the drive shaft made, the trans will come out and go to the shop.
I also still need to place a large $$$ small quantity order with Hot Heads before I can do the stuff to the engine I want to. But hey, I guess it is getting closer. :LOL:
Buzz Killer!:D
I finally got the X brace center done which serves as the cross member/trans mount. I still have to drill 2 holes in it once I cut off my braces under the frame that I put on when I cut out all of the old stuff. I'll get an installed pic tomorrow.
40, you're probably already finished with this, but I have a suggestion. When I build a transmission crossmember, I will add a couple of shims under the rubber mount. This way, if I need to adjust driveline angle, I can remove a shim or two. You can always add shims to go up, but sometimes it's hard to go down.
Yeah, it is already done and that is a good idea. In the future I might incorporate that into the build.
It is bolted on and the trans is bolted to the frame. This is the first time in 6 years an engine and trans have been bolted to the car without anything supporting one or the other. Next I think I'll tackle a brake pedal and exhaust trying to occupy the same area. :LOL:
It's starting to feel like I'm making progress now. I got my brake pedal bracket made and tacked on the frame. I will have to add gussets to it later. Due to my X member, I couldn't put it in the factory area. This doesn't bother me. With the recessed firewall the throttle pedal would be farther back so moving the pedals over to the left gains me some foot room. I may still have to modify the brake pedal to get enough room in there. I'll deal wit that when I have a seat in it again. :LOL:
I also got my cross braces cut off so now I can finish drilling my holes for my X member center plate. I started routing my exhaust. Ideally i didn't want to go under the the front portion of the X member. I wanted to cut the tubes and put a round pipe in there then run the exhaust through the pipe. Due to time constraints, I'm doing it this way. The exhaust is a little lower than the front cross member any way due to the length of the headers. Maybe a 1/4". So I'm living with it. Hopefully by next week I can have the exhaust ran and figure out if I want to use my vac booster or go with the hydraboost.
Nice progress. A lot of people just don't realize the amount of time it take to get all the little details done.
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Looking very good.
Those dang Ford X-members sure get in the way, don't they. The 46 is bigger, but still tight. My exhaust is under the chassis too. I didn't have the ability at the time to run it myself and couldn't find a shop that would run it the way I wanted. Been on there for 20 years, but I intend to change that when the Healey is done.
Absolutely right! It really doesn't take long to get one up on wheels, but turning it into a real driveable car seems to take forever.
Yes, they sure do get in the way. Now, I wish I would have used smaller tubing. But, I'm not redoing it now. I'm going to try my damndness to get this thing to Des Moines Good guys this year. I don't care if it just parking lot drives. It will at least run and move.
Here you go Ryan, boom done! :LOL:https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...04544080415659
sweet ride
That would have been a lot faster and I'd have less in that one for sure. :LOL:
I saw a pretty nice 40 Ford coupe at a show this past weekend and everyone walking by it was saying, whoa, nice Hemi. Dudes!!! It's not a Hemi but a dual over head cam 4.6. Still cool but not Hemi cool IMO. :LOL:
Wow, nothing new with this one since July 2018. Someone is a slack ass. :LOL: I was at my friend Steve's a couple of weeks ago whom has the awesome Mopar collection. We were chatting about his truck project when Gene Cross strolled in. Gene is a Goodguys rep and was bringing Steve some gazette copies since Steve's shop made it in the July mag because his shop was on the poker run. They got to talking about the good old days so I asked Gene if he had any pics of the 40 from back then. He paused and said he had no idea, but he would look. Last week Gene called and said he found a pic of Sooner and I could come by and take a pic of it.
I'm not sure if I told the story of Gene in this thread or not. I think I did, but it is probably buried in this thread. Back in the 70s, my Uncle Jerry used to run around with Gene and a whole slew of other guys in the ISRA. https://www.myisra.org/isra-events Jerry had the 40 Deluxe, and Gene had a 39 Standard. They both were working on their cars, body paint, etc. Well, Jerry got his car done first so they called it Sooner and Gene's was Later. The last 4 pics are of Later. He is for sale. I sort of wish I had the money to buy it so the Sooner and Later thing could live on for a long time. The first pic is of Sooner in 1973.
That's a awesome pic of the 40, history of a car make it much more fun. How much is he asking for Later?
I'm very glad he found the pic. This must have been before the car was painted. Gene knows the guy that painted it as well. I am going to reach out to him and see if he has any old pics of it too. I haven't mentioned but I joined a car club in Oskaloosa called the Rollin Oldies this summer. It turns out that a member in it used to run around with Uncle Jerry and Aunt Nancy and knew them well. He is also looking for old pics of it. He is really eager for me to get the car back on the roads.
Gene said $26,500 negotiable. It has a Ford 302 with Offenhauser intake, Edelbrock 4bbl, C4 trans, 57 Chevy rear end with 3:08 gears, parallel leaf spring rear suspension, MII original style cross member because the car was built before the aftermarket ones were out. Manual rack, disc brakes front, drum rear. Aluminum Griffin radiator, power seats, power windows, GM tilt column, modified 40 dash, power deck lid latch, flush 3rd brake light and tail lights, fiberglass fenders front and rear. 14x6 and 15x7 billet specialties wheels and frenched in license plate with smoked cover. He said there is a small rust bubble on the bottom of each door. He said he was going to fix it but he knows if he starts to tear into it, it will never get put back together. He has the patch panels to go with it.
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I've been on the hunt for certain parts for the 40 off and on and I finally got a couple. Maybe I'll re visit my bat wing air cleaner this winter. We shall see.
I drug the poor 40 out of the barn January 10th right when the weather turned to poo here. I only have worked on it for about 8hrs sadly. I've just been too busy at work. I was by myself since May 30 of last year and the Covid BS made us extremely busy. Plus I had customer trucks to finish and one of them was a complete PITA. Anyhow, I have gotten the body bolted back down to the frame and the doors shut again. I still need to do some more work on the driver's door but at least it feels like a car again. I have also decided to ditch the 8.8 rear end and go back to a 9". Nothing like 2 steps forward and 15 back. :LOL:
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Like a fool, I sold my 9" that was in the 40 to a friend. He put it in his 51 Chevy already so there was no getting it back. I have been searching for another narrow 9" so I don't have to spend big money on getting one together. I ended up picking up an early bronco 9" the other day. Its 58" wms to wms. 3.50 gears, and I lucked out. Its a trac loc as well. 28 spline axles, 5 on 5.5" bp. My 8.8 is 59 1/4" I believe. So I'm pretty sure I can make this 9" work without having to spend a lot more money.
The biggest reasons I am switching are: 1. The pinion offset on this explorer 8.8 was going to require me to cut my floor tunnel for the drive shift to make it through. Especially since it sets so low now. And 2. The upper 4 link mounts can't be welded on without me taking it to someone that can weld cast. Even then I hear the welds will more than likely crack due to the impurities in the material. I'm not willing to deal with both of those so going back to a 9" sounds like a better idea to me. I was going to make an axle truss type setup to tie the upper mounts into but that requires more floor to be cut out at full drop. Oh well.
JMHO, it's hard to beat a 9"..
Good choice and a great find! I never have been a fan of welding cast!
Here is the result of some idiot welding cast iron with a MIG welder on a 8.8 housing!:eek: This guy had just bought the car a few weeks previous. When he left the cruise-in he just got on it gently, but it broke. The car ran off the road and rolled over twice. The driver got a broken arm from being thrown around inside (no seat belts):(. If I was him I'd find the builder and break his nose.:mad:
Yeah, that is a huge mess! The wreck and that old mounting ears reinstalled. I'm not into killing or injuring anyone with my work unlike whom ever hacked that crap together.
I don't have any pics to post but I did get the leaf spring and shock mounts removed off my 9" housing. I'm cleaning up the housing so I can assemble it and start mocking up on the 4 link. Bye bye 8.8. :LOL:
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Finally some worth while progress on this thing!!! I got the 9" under it and got the 4 link all tacked on. Far better than the 8.8". I still might have to cut the floor so the drive shaft doesn't hit it when aired out, but not by much.
Wow, the pics loaded all jacked. I'll have to work on that. I don't remember how to fix that currently. :LOL:
Now I have to decide how to make the upper mounts tie into the frame. On trucks they use 2x3 and put an A with the top lopped off, on each side with 2 2x3 cross members. I think I will use round tube and 1/4" plate and tie them in. I'd really like to get the rear suspension done this week. It will help my motivation levels. I really want the car be alive for it's 80th anniversary.
I need to find some long socket head type bolts so I can get rid of the carriage bolts I used as frame mounting bolts. Thinking back I should have used captured nuts in the frame before boxing the frame. Live and learn. :LOL:
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On another note, I do have a dilemma. I thought I had rear disc brakes for this rear end all figured out. I googled and searched rear disc brake kits for a 5x5.5" BP early Ford Bronco 9". I could have got a complete kit for $500 on up. Well, I didn't want to use up all my funds on 1 part. I found a few guys that said 82 ish CJ5 front rotors would fit. I ordered a set but they won't fit. Now, they would probably work behind the flange but I don't want to do that. I need to find a rotor that will go on this axle and retain the 5x5.5" BP. I have to keep adapters on it to run these wheels. Later on I plan to get an older looking wheel that is wider. But I'm right back to that budget being empty situation. :LOL: I got weld on caliper brackets from DIY4X, and some new GM metric calipers. now I just need to figure out the rotor deal.
Anyone have any ideas on a rotor that would fit? The CJ5 front rotor ID is too small to fit over the OD of the axle flange. 4X4 F-150 87 up?
On edit. I have found a rear rotor for 04-06 E150 econolines that look promising.
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This morning I grabbed some tubing I had used to brace the frame 7 or 8 years ago when I cut the original X member out. I decided to use it to start making the structure that will hold the upper air bag mounts. I got the main cross member positioned and tacked then started cutting and fitting tubing. I didn't get very far today. I'm going to have to cut more floor out to do what I want but I'll have to cut these pieces to make the new floor any way.
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Nice to see you making some forward motion on this project. I hope you can make your deadline too.
Maybe you'll help inspire the lazy guys like me to do a little something on their projects... 8-)
I'm going to try and keep working on it but it's a struggle. I've got 3 other trucks to be working on too in the next month. Im trying to hurry while I'm waiting for parts for the customer stuff. But either way if I get any thing done to this car it's a huge bonus. Otherwise it would just be collecting more dust. Haha
I've been making good progress on the rear suspension of this thing. It has been tough with everything going on. Land hurricanes and everything else. I sort of regret not buying a kit but then again no kits for this style of car are for an already boxed frame so you do what you have to do. I still have to add in bump stop mounts, gusset some places, and make upper shock mounts when the shocks arrive. These things sure eat gobs of time!!!
A member on another forum I'm on pointed out that my upper link mounts on my rear end housing were not going to work. He said they needed to be parallel with the ground for the upper bars to articulate properly. I thought about it and he was right. The ends at the top of the rear end would have to rely on the rod ends at the end of the bars to do all the action. So I spent all one morning fixing my upper link mounts. They are parallel to the ground now and it should be good to go now. I also got one bump stop mount made and installed. I started making the bracing I'm using to tie the bridge pieces together. I decided to put the car's name in the lower piece so you can see it from below. It's just cut out rough with the plaz. Boy I sure I had a water jet. :)
I got that piece all cleaned up and started welding it in place. I ran out of welding wire yesterday morning so I didn't get much accomplished. Plus I didn't have the extra time. This morning I had to finish cutting up my derecho tree damage so I could get it out of here. I did make some CAD pieces, cardboard aided drawing, made up so I can cut more pieces to the puzzle tomorrow. I got more welding wire tonight and I also picked up the shocks I plan to use. Hopefully tomorrow morning I can get the shocks installed and have the rear suspension close to done.
Geometry is a bitch, isn't it? Those parallel lines just keep things honest! Any progress is good, and better than sitting idle.
I got the LH bump stop mount installed and almost have the shock mounts done. Next thing will be to remove the rear end and finish weld everything. Then make the new floor and find a back seat. The list just never ends. Haha