I got one of the fenders sprayed black as well as the air cleaner top and I was marking the firewall to notch it so when I get finned aluminum valve covers they will fit. Nothing like creating more work for your self. :LOL:
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I got one of the fenders sprayed black as well as the air cleaner top and I was marking the firewall to notch it so when I get finned aluminum valve covers they will fit. Nothing like creating more work for your self. :LOL:
First pic is of the cool Arias aluminum finned valve covers.
More fender paint pics. Not perfect but there aren't any runs and they aren't white. :LOL:
I removed the front clip to remove the engine and begin the finishing of the firewall. I also added gussets to my engine mount stands to help keep them rigid. once those were in I sliced the firewall and stitched it back together. I also added a 1" lip to my firewall opening and put nut serts in it for my trans tunnel I made.
I don't have pics of it, but I made a lower steering column mount and welded it to my steering column. I also cut off the shift tab and welded the tube solid. It is converted to floor shift now. I also installed nut serts into the firewall so the steering column bolts on to the firewall. I bought a really nice billet swivel mount but my fire wall bends right where the steering column goes through. I could have cut it out and added a round tube with a flat plate to mount it in but I decided not to do all of that.
I also began welding in the rest of the spot welds across the top of the cowl and I had to make some pieces to tie in the bottom of the cowl to the new firewall because it wasn't tall enough to meet the bottom of the over hang of the cowl. I put some sealer with acid etch in it on it because it was so humid I got tired of seeing the flash rust form.
I began body working it because I wanted it to be pretty straight and I knew there would be some body work to be done around the embossed panel I got from late member Richard.
I also decided to remove the front and rear glass to get a nicer paint job. Plus my RH rear window gasket was ripped at some point and they just smeared black rtv on it to cover it up. It was a good 3"x.5" chunk missing and I figured the silicone would cause a reaction and I was tired of looking at that bad gasket.
I also welded in my Welder series anti roll bar. I will have to modify the arms to clear my tie rods when the suspension is dropped but it is close to final draft. The front shock mounts were done top and bottom as well in these pics.
Now I was cleaning the front of the frame to prep it for paint. Grinding and finishing welds I did in 2012. Could it have really been that long ago? :CRY: I also fixed a dent in the roof and then began my Rocky hinge bear claw latch install.
Top picture is a pic of the linkage I made to connect the factory release lever. I also incorporated the factory outer handles. I thought about shaving the handles but I just didn't want to add another week to the project.
The next job was to fix the horrible fitment of the driver's door. It took tweaking the entire shell with some 2x4's and cutting the door frame in a couple of spots and welding it with pressure applied to hold the form of the quarter panel. It was a pain but it is way better than it was. It still isn't perfect but I don't feel like cutting the hinges off of the a pillar to start over.
Here is the repair of the LH crack below the wing window. The next pics are pf the RH bear claw mod after some filler and primer. I also primered the firewall and we had it outside one afternoon to do grinding on the door outside plus Clint cleaned and vacuumed the inside out trying to get ready for paint.
Now it is getting grease and wax removed, removed all the front suspension to paint the front of the frame, and finally get ready for paint.
It's getting close, Ryan! Remember, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it!!!
Looking real good Ryan! You’re looking OK on time getting this this done too (said the guy who too 15 years to get his 37 on the road LoL). Do I remember correctly, that you traded the 354 for a 392?
Is the trans a 518/46RH? I know we talked about different controllers for these (Compushift Mini and PATC) a while back. I used the Mini in the 37 Dodge. It does OK, but at the price and not all that impressed with it. I picked up a PATC kit for the 46RH (with the adjustable switches) that will go on the HEMI I just built but until I get a car to stuff it in, I really can’t make any comments on how it will work.
Nice work on the valve cover notches and I like the that style of cover…….actually better than the finned ones I have. I hate to mention this, but did you check to see if the aluminum covers can actually be removed in car? The rocker shafts are pretty tall and the valve covers have to come up pretty far to clear them. It’s even worse if you use studs rather than bolts to hold the valve covers on. Whether you use studs or bolts don’t forget to put sealer on the threads as they screw into the water jackets.
That HEMI sure does fill the engine compartment nicely!!!!
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Hi Mike, yes sir, I traded the 354 for a lower mile 392. The trans is a 46rh. I recently heard compushift no longer makes a mini so that is out I guess? I have one for my wife's truck that I had in my 0range 72 and it didn't work great either. Like you I wasn't impressed. The 40 will get toggle switches. I've used the PATC setup before but for this toggles will be fine. Maybe I'll get that far in 2023. :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike P
No, I didn't check to see if the aluminum valve covers will come off with the engine in the car. I could have an issue. Yeah, that sounds about right. :LOL:
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".....The 40 will get toggle switches......"
Several years ago I designed a circuit to control the lockup convertor on a TH250. The way it was designed was after the toggle switch was turned on the lock-up was activated with a momentary push-button switch. It would automatically disengage when the brake pedal was pushed (great when the wife(and me LoL) was driving it so she didn't have to remember to disengage the lockup when driving in traffic or coming to a stop sign.
If you want I can see if I still have the diagram and post it.
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Now some fun begins. Or is it fun? :LOL:
I purposely used red oxide primer that way if I botch the paint job I can sand it down and do a patina job on it.
Well there you have it. It's black. In typical Ryan fashion I couldn't leave well enough alone. I had wanted a metallic finish but also wanted a budget paint. I saw some stuff on the interwebs and wanted to try it. It turned out nice. You'll have to let me know what you think.
My wife came out and took evidence photos to show who made it not black now....... It is black in low light situations. It's cool to me. It reminds me of the car it was when I was little and then it changes to what it is today.
Now it was time to clean up all the front suspension and paint it to make it look new again. I modified the lower control arms and the uppers just got scuffed and scratched over the years. Clint cleaned the rack up and I let him shoot the cast steel part.
It is the dash's turn for modifications. Years ago I purchased a stash box made by Hot rods by Dean. I planned to put a radio in it back then, but I'm not sure what I'll put in here now. I also plan to make a full length console from the dash to the trans tunnel and back to the seats so there will be plenty of room for things.
The kit allows you to make the stash box removable but I decided since welding was required to put it in anyway, I'd just weld it in. Once I had the box installation complete, I had to make the decision to fill the original radio hole or not. I opted to since a radio won't fit there now and chances are I may not run a head unit in this car any how. I plan to use my phone and use an amp and a blue tooth receiver and amp to run some speakers. That's way down on the list though.
I primered the dash with 3 coats of filler primer. Now I need to block it out and shoot it. The filler pic is just an old inside joke to me. My old boss would chew my butt for wasting that material. There was always a project setting there that extra filler was spread on so it never went to waste! **)
The last pic shows the car now having complete hubs with packed bearings, caliper mounting brackets installed and calipers on for tor the first time in years.
Now it was time to put the trim back on. That was a bit nerve wracking but I got it done. I only replaced 1 piece and that was the LH rear quarter piece. It was a real bear to get the clips in to it but I finally managed. I also got a new deck lid emblem. This car had a blue one on it when I got it but Deluxe cars should have had a red emblem to match the rest of the Deluxe badges.
It was time to start running lines. I started with air lines so I could get the car in and out or load it on a trailer if I had to. I just used nylon DOT black tubing and compression fittings. I picked up an air bag controller that has a wireless remote to control them. I might change that to a wired unit but we shall see. All the remotes in my house disappear so I'm afraid this one could have the same fate. :LOL:
I haven't painted my garnish moldings yet so I just put the front door ones in so I can roll it outside. I wanted to wash it before I started wet sanding it to buff it but I didn't get the chance that day.
Finally some other pics outside.
Here are 2 night time pics for contrast.
Nice! Lots of progress.
Looking really, really nice! I was wondering when/how you'd handle the transition from black to metallic blue!! It's gonna be sweet, especially with that diesel rolling smoke!!
Looking good! Looking forward to seeing it finished.
If you're not wanting a traditional dash radio, look into marine units. Many have remote head units with smallish control boxes that can be mounted anywhere. The one I have works good, but doesn't have a CD player. I use USB and Bluetooth.
Very nice blue metalic
Looking good, keep at it your almost done. The last year on my 9 year build I did at least one thing a day to my truck, it may have been just tightening a nut but I made it a point to do that every day (almost) . Looking forward to see the rest of it.
Thanks guys! Navy, I'm going to try and get it more complete and drivable by summer. I've gotten some stuff done recently but nothing pic worthy. :LOL:
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I'm finally making some head way on the 40. I finally am close to setting the engine in the frame but for real. There are many things I never had installed on the car during the build. Not big things but things that are instrumental for the car to run and operate. :eek: You can see my mess and the Hemi still on the stand. I then got the engine prepped and ready and then masked off and shot. Thanks to Matthyj for the phone assistance when I had questions. I had a local pin striper decorate the air cleaner lid. I might buy a 2nd and have another guy do something up as well. We shall see.
Now we're getting somewhere! I had planned to paint the engine ford blue but Matt sent me some pics of a car his friend is building and I had to steal his idea. These engines were originally silver with gold valve covers but I think they look great gold. So now I have my first large gold nugget. The cost is about right for one. :LOL: The pink pic was a gag joke. I sent that to my wife and she came out about 20min later saying I wasn't funny. :LOL:
My original dip stick tube broke on removal but I had already purchased a new hot heads one. Of course it didn't fit. I was really imprerssed to see the made in china on the stick..... But what really impressed me was the hack job on the tube where they shortened it and the snip job on the stick. I had to file both and remove the metal burs to get the stick to slide in. I had to turn down the adapter they made on a lathe to fit my block. I find it odd that I have to modify a part made specifically for this but I used my precision bench grinder to knock it out. Ching chang perfection...... :toocool:
Next was coating my headers. I was all ready to buy a cerakote kit to coat the headers with but funds are tight. I may have got myself into another car deal so I have to balance things out for it all to work out. Rather than wait until I get the extra cash for a cerakote kit I reverted back to tried and true vht 1300-2k* paint. After some issues with copper header gaskets, I got the headers installed. I also have been working through some issues to get the taller aluminum finned valve covers installed. I may have spent 1/4 of a pay check on stainless fasteners too. Nothing is cheap and if it is it's junk. Plus I'm tired of fighting all the original bolts that were never touched on this car when it was "restored". I'll rant on that more later when I show my inner fender and front fender work.
Once the engine was all painted I had to clean up the NOS dual quad intake but I didn't want it to look too new. It was purchased in the 70s and then left in the box. I want the engine install to look like it could have been put in in the 70s. I cleaned and scuffed the intake with red scotchbrite and aluminum polish. I then cleaned the intake in the parts washer, then washed it, and clear coated it. I also re polished the hot heads valley pan and cleared it too. I'm trying to make the stuff last a long while on this one. :LOL:
The 40 is back on the stands ready to get a heart transplant!
Looks great Ryan!! Like the gold color.
A trick I do to help the header paint last is to cure the paint after it drys.
Basically I just take a propane torch and use it to heat the the painted parts. You can actually see the paint turn shiny black and then back to a flat color as the solvents burn off once you see that the paint is cured.
The parts can a can actually have set for quit a while (months) with the paint on them and it will still work.
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Lookin' good Ryan! Do you have the AFB's to match the intake?
Thanks Dave! No, I do not. But, I have 2 390cfm 4160 Holleys and adapter spacers to move them away from each other so they will fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Man, your 3rd & 4th pictures really show how wide that beast is!! I was curious, and the 5.0 Coyote is 28" compared to your 331/392 Hemi at 29" - maybe a tad more with the tall valve covers!! BEAST!
Yes sir! They are really wide. Hopefully my firewall notches allow my aluminum valve covers to clear. Cross your fingers........ :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I don’t see the Cummins anywhere… and son #1 and I was hoping the motor color would stay stinky pinky ����
Looks good! The gold looks very 50's/60's. Gonna look even better in the car.
That will be another project down the road some day on both. Izzy, my oldest daughter wants this car so bad. She's not getting it but I am searching for an affordable 40 to start with to build her one. Hers probably will be pink everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Last week I got the engine sat on the stands but I was so disgusted and mad I didn't post about it. I scratched the firewall a few times and that irritated me but what got me the most was the aluminum valve covers won't go on. The chrome stamped steel ones will go on and come off as is though. The aluminum ones I think will fit in there but I am going to have to take the engine mounts off, lower the engine, and then put the aluminum valve covers on. That is my plan any how.
First I need to prime my engine. But before I can do that I need to address the oil filter that is blue tooth I forgot about. :eek:
I decided to purchase a different oil filter adapter that will put the oil filter on the side facing straight out. I have room for that and I won't have to deal with lines for the remote filter setup.
In other amazing news I had an epiphany and realized I had no place for a PCV. The stock valley pan had a road draft tube and I have 2 grommets and PCV's I purchased from Hot heads to eliminate the road draft tube. Well, I didn't think far enough ahead and there is no baffle when using an aluminum flat plate and there is no hole in the plate. So back off came the valley cover and I will drill and tap it for 1/2"npt. I'll get some hose and an in hose PCV and plumb it in between the valley cover and carb. I'll also have to drill my oil fill cap, I already cleared, to add a breather. **) Big fun.
Once I got the engine sat on the stands I decided I had better get the trans bolted to the engine. I have never had the flex plate bolted on the engine because I had to tap my crank to be able to bolt on the flex plate. Luckily I tapped the bolt holes straight and the hub adapter and flex plate went on. The torque converter even went into the hub and I have a couple of bolts started into the torque converter. I have never had a starter bolted on this set up yet either. Yeehaw.... That's another day's problem.
My next issue was my TRWaters adapter I chose to use. This adapter has a dowel on each side for the trans but only used 4 mounting bolts to hold the trans to the engine. These 4 bolts do go through the adapter into the block. The adapter it's self has 1 bolt on each side coming from the front of the block going through and holding the adapter to the block and there is also a dowel on each side aligning and holding the adapter to the block. Most Chrysler transmissions have 8 bell housing bolts and this only having 4 was weirding me out. Luckily there is a bolt hole on the trans that landed just at the bottom area of the adapter. On the RH side I drilled and tapped the hole 3/8-16 and threaded a grade 8 bolt in it. The LH side is a different story. There is a mounting boss on the side of the bell housing I need to cut off to access the bolt hole. Usually the bolt comes from the front on these holes and I'm sure that is why these were not used on this adapter plate. I knew I had to cut that mounting boss off, I just forgot. It should be fun now with the trans in the car. :LOL:
The last pic is of Izzy last year. She just turned 12 last Saturday. 4 more years until she can drive. Where has the time went?