Thanks Dave! Yeah, it sure does get in the way. I'll just keep plugging along. The real goal is the middle of June so I can make Good guys Des Moines.
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Now the page has flipped, how many of you are experiencing weird stuff being on back order? It truly is crazy. I'm waiting for a gas tank for a 71 Charger and at first they said 3 months. Yeah, come on. I get it this isn't a high selling part but 3 months? Rock auto was less than 3 weeks, so we shall see.
Yeah, Jack's '34 was super cool, and very well done! He never posted about selling it, but told me in an email back in 2020 that he was at a neighborhood gathering and started talking cars with a guy in his 40's. After a bit the guy said "...if you ever decided to sell it what would you ask and came to see it the next day. I sent Jack a note today, as it's been far too long between catch-ups. Hope to hear back....Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
I hadn't thought about the higher coolant temps vs optimum tranny fluid temps, but you're right. For a high HP engine or one that tows a lot, having the base at 195F to 210F isn't optimum, is it. That kind of makes a case for the B&M unit that Jack used. The fan is controlled by a dedicated thermal switch, on at 175 and off around 160F. Not saying that you need one in your application, but thinking those guys who are bypassing their radiator HX might like the B&M unit, but it's not cheap!!
Roger, I definitely can see how it is a great idea. I built a cummins powered suburban for a guy a while ago and we ended up putting a fan on his trans cooler mounted under the bumper. The cooler just wasn't getting any air directed to it. I put a derale thermostatic switch on it and it worked great.
Here is the heat exchanger in mock up. A lot of people put them on the frame rail some where but I don't have any room under a running board and I'd rather have it up front to get the best shot of air. It should get some since the grill and side grills are pretty open. I'm not sure if I can have it in front of the tube yet. I think it would be ok where it is at currently. Now to find my trans line fittings. Another item I hid from myself for this car. :LOL:
I was able to get in enough time yesterday to get the throttle hooked up on the 40. I might need to take 1 throttle return spring off but we shall see. I still have to install the transmission pressure cable, and have to trim the linkage connecting the carbs as well.
I've been trying to decide where to put my fuel pressure regulator and fuel log. I was going to put it on the RH inner fender but if there ever is a leak that is close to the RH header area. I'm starting to think putting them on the firewall might be the best option. I've been trying to keep everything off of it but unfortunately, I'm not sure where else it could go. Maybe mount them off intake bolts on the LH side of the intake? I'm also going to have to mount the trans dipstick on the RH side of the firewall and I really didn't want to.
I understand not wanting anything on the firewall, but I think that's probably the best place for the fuel log and regulator.
My Lokar tranny dipstick is a "firewall mount", but I made a little bracket and hung to off of a bellhousing bolt. Nothing wrong with a clean firewall mount though.
Another vote for the firewall
Don’t know if this will do you any good or not Ryan but here’s a couple of thoughts.
When I did the fuel block for the HEMI Tri-Power I built a couple of stand off brackets to mount the block to the intake manifold.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4892/4...c01e9885_z.jpgT1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4bfe73c4_z.jpgFB by M Patterson, on Flickr
For me it worked out well and the hard lines helped clean up the installation.
For the transmission dipstick have you considered a stock rigid dipstick and tube? A 727 dipstick and tube is also correct for a 46RH. When I built my 37 that’s what I did. OF COURSE it didn’t fit stock :LOL:
I used a very old trick to get it bent to where it had to go. I taped the bottom of the tube with metal tape and then filled the tube with sand. Then I used a torch to heat the tube (pretty much red hot) and bend it where it needed to go to fit. Filling the tube with sand prevented the tube form kinking when it was bent. I just had to bent the upper end past the support bracket to clear the firewall. I poured all the sand out and flushed it with carb cleaner several times put some paint on it and called it good.
Bending the tube past the bracket that bolts to the transmission meant the tube was still held straight into the transmission so the O ring was not put in a bind so it doesn’t leak.
Anyway just a couple of for what it’s worth thoughts.
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Thanks for the ideas and suggestions guys. Here's what I have came up with so far. I mounted the regulator on the LH inner fender just ahead of the cowl. It's sort of hidden but accessible for maintenance etc. I then made a mount out of stainless steel and bolted my fuel log into it. I made it to mount on 2 intake bolts and positioned it so my fuel lines should be the shortest possible. I was going to do hard line to the carb inlets but I still would have to have rubber to connect them. I've been waiting for -6 banjo fittings for a while. My plan is to have JIC -6 fittings with gates vapor hose. I was going to order all black anodized fittings but I think I'll use brass as much as I can to keep the 70s look. I also got a black cap to get rid of the red one.
Nice!! Necessity is the mother of invention!
Some day when you've got nothing better to do you can polish those brass fittings and hit them with some clear!!
Hard to beat Brasso
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33479873502...3ABFBMhL2ksoFi
Nice work Ryan.....it's coming together.
".....Hard to beat Brasso...."
Ya beat me to it Ken. I don't know how many cans I went thru. I stuck around long enough to end up a senior NCO so I always had a can in my desk for the youngsters to use after my "pre-inspections".
You could always tell inspection was coming by the smell of shoe polish and Brasso in the barracks.
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I went ahead and bought some brasso. The boys are going to have dirty gloves soon. :LOL: I had to order half of the fittings I need so I'm not sure I'll get my fuel system done this weekend or not. It seems I have plenty of stuff to do though, so it'll be fine. :LOL:
Momma won't be happy if the boys don't wear gloves. Brasso comes out a sort of puke green but turns black the harder you rub and does a pretty decent job of staining anything it gets on. A soft bristle tooth brush works great for nooks and crannies.
LOL on another forum I posted that my can of Brasso is from 1968, Navy Boot Camp and it's still over half full! Used it just a few days ago, polising a piece of hard copper tube used as a ferrule on a tool handle I turned. Ditto on the black staining, and its not easy to get out of cuticles & grooves on fingers!
She definitely wasn't thrilled when the boys helped put on POR-15 last time. They looked like dalmatians for a while. :LOL:
How's everyone doing? I've had a heck of a time getting anything done lately because a week and a half ago I rolled my ankle and thought I broke it. That killed a lot of time and made things a lot ore difficult. I'm back to near normal and have been trying to get things done.
I got my fuel pump mounted and fuel lines ran. On the pressure side, I ran a short piece of rubber to hard line, to rubber into a bypass regulator. Out of the regulator to a fuel block, then to the carbs. I used gates barricade hose which is compatible with ethanol rated gasolines. You just never know what you're going to get anymore and I didn't want the hose breaking down over time. I also have a return line back to the tank. I'm hoping not dead heading the pump will allow it to live a long life. :rolleyes:
I then began running battery cables. I have to open up the battery hole in the trunk floor for the grommet I want to use. This hole was already in the trunk as the battery was mounted there years ago. It was on the trunk floor but now the battery will be under an access panel. I'm going to use a starter solenoid to send power through the cable only during cranking. I saw this used on race cars and it seems safer to me. Even though I'll have to have a power cable going to the alternator and power wires going to the fuse box. The battery cable runs down the RH frame rail and up over the trans bell housing and will be retained with p clamps. I have a 2nd solenoid I'll use to run the starter S terminal as well. I have multiple grounds I've added to the body and frame, and engine and frame.
One thing I've been meaning to get to lately but never had time to was blocking my dash and painting it. Well, I got enough paint on it so I can re sand it and do it again. :whacked:
I didn't jack up the column though. You think I would have ran it instead of the dash. Oh well. Live and ya learn. I just need to slow down. I was in a hurry and just blew off my spray pattern and it bit me in the rear.
Aw, you can cut that run off and buff it out, right? Single edge razor blade and a wrap of tape on the ends....;)**)
An artist always signs his work.;)
Just like usual, I haven't gotten much time to work on the 40. I was going to make my own exhaust tips but the moron nation light went off in my head and I realized how long I'd spend on them versus ordering a pair. So I found some and hit submit. While I wait for those I have plenty of other stuff to finish.
A big one was repainting the dash. I didn't screw it up this time. :eek:
I'm re installing the fenders so I can get the exhaust lined up in holes and once that is done, I'll paint the fenders. Here you can see why I can't get much done. I have to keep looking for things I just sat down or anything that catches his eye is gone with him..... **)
He's just collecting parts for his build, leave him alone lol.
He probably is! :LOL:
I got the LH fender and grill section installed so I could put the radiator back in and sure enough, the lower water outlet hits my sway bar tube. I raised the radiator up to clear it and now I need to make sure the hood will still shut. I ordered a lower hose, and have to buy another upper because I can't seem to find where I hid the upper I had.
I sprayed out a test panel for flame colors. My wife says the blue is too bright and needs to be darker. I may just add a darker color on top of this blue. I'm not sure yet.
Nice work 2 is a charm. I'm sorta in same boat. I pulled my front fenders off and then bought new ones for the 48 Ford F1 truck. Going to do the same with the rears in a month or so. Old ones were too beaat up for me to mess with with my minimum welding skills and the thick bondo a past owner had put on them. The goal is get the whole thing recoated with epoxy primer then try my hand at painting one panel at a time.
It's quite possible he might know. If I could get him to remember that far back where he stashed it would be the problem. :LOL: Case in point. The kid's swing set had a round type swing on one section that had broke down and came apart. I went to remove it and put a bench swing there and when I dropped a nut in the grass I got stabbed by a small screw driver. I only use that screw driver on glasses and I know I haven't had it in the yard let a lone out of the garage. I held it up and shook it at Cody and he grinned and took off. Nothing is safe. :LOL:
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You are the third person in a day to tell me that, my neighbor used to work in a body shop, and he said same thing yesterday as did the Summit Racing tech when I talked with him. For now I will do the fenders in epoxy primer, and spray the rest of the truck intact. with epoxy primer, then put it all together and look into getting a professional shop to do the color coats. It's a acrylic paint and single stage so not clear coating!
I got my upper hose and cut it to length. I found a lower radiator hose and a mid 60s big block chevy hose actually fits no modifications. I took the water pump off to clean up the alternator brackets and paint them. I also had to put a different fan on it since one fin was bent on it. I ended up having to move the radiator up some because the lower outlet of the radiator was hitting my sway bar tube. I then test fit the hood to make sure it would still go on.
Next I cut the RH fender for an exhaust outlet.
Next up was getting going on the actual exhaust. I got the LH cut out installed and went back from there. It's tight but fits. I wanted to do stainless but stainless ends will have to do. I still have to do the RH side.
Yesterday I got the RH side exhaust done up to the muffler. I'll finish the exhaust cut out hole when I pull the fender off to paint it. I still have to trim the cut out down, and add a hanger to it.
Last fall one of the boys' friends, knocked my driver's windshield garnish molding off a stand and it split and bent when it hit the floor. I had some replacements found but they wanted $150 for a pair. I decided I'd try and fix this one to save some money. They're really thin but I was able to get it fixed.
Little steps are still steps, and every step adds to the end result!
Little progress is still progress,
and
that
is
all
good.
Last night I got the pipes done for the RH side. Now I need to add the hangers and paint the pipes.
Another thing that has driven me nuts with this car is how nasty the head light buckets have always been. I cleaned them up and soaked the RH side in evaporust over night. I then cleaned off some spots of tar or under coating and old paint and re soaked it. The pic of it is after the initial soak. So much nicer than before.
I came up with a way to hide my bumper bracket holes. Most people never see the turn signals on these cars since they're directly above the head lights. I decided to find a nice looking light to put in this spot. I found some housings on the bay and have ground contours into them to get them to set flush on the fender. I need to take a little more off each outer side because I feel the lights angle in. That's because the fenders contour in towards the grill.
Hope you didn't bust up the kid too bad for Ben and your molding lol. All that little stuff takes forever, but the headlight buckets do look real nice and I like what you did for blinkers.