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:LOL::LOL: Roger, the rims on that truck are bigger than 17's, probably 18's or 20's on the rear. 17's would still allow for decent sidewall and still open up the look of the wheel. Rear tires will need to be at least 28" tall anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Roger, I see that now. But it looks like to me they are telling you that if you don't have them, Truespoke, powder coat the wheels, you can run into the problem of that happening. I copied it off their site.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Important Note! If you purchase bare hot rod wire wheels with the intention of having them powder-coated elsewhere, the high heat involved in the powder-coat process will melt our silicone liner and the wheel will leak air. Please request further information from us before ordering. Thank you.
You're probably right Randy. The 15s would probaly look dinky. The pic of the project 40 I posted sure looks like it has at least 17s on it now that I look at it more. I'll probably go at least 16s in the front and 17s in the rear. Maybe 17s all the way around. I bet those chrome spokes were hard to keep clean. I didn't really take that into consideration. The black ones may stay clean easier. Hmm :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
I actually found a couple of pictures on their site of a 39 and a 40 with these on them. On both, they look small, or is it just me? Also, the all chrome almost looks like too much too me. That could just be me though. The plain primer plus powder coating are $2120. But the color and chrome ones are only $2280. I'm guessing these are painted and not powder coated with what the link says. I will have to call and find out.
http://www.truespoke.net/Paintedwithchrome.html
Exactly. Their issue is powder coating of the wheel by others, not saying that they cannot be powder coated. They will powder coat the pieces, then assemble and true the wheel, then install their silicone seal, making the wheels suitable for tubeless tires. The warning is that you cannot powder coat them as a unit, or you'll melt the seals.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe
On the size, stock wheels were 16's, so I would expect that 15's wouldn't look right, and I think Randy's right that they need to be about in the 28" range. I've never seen anything about the right drop, rear to front, for a fat fendered '40.
28's :LOL:
Thanks for the help and ideas guys. I would hate to spend the money on the wheels and hate the look and wish I would have changed it before I knew or thought about it. I saw on my internet searches that the ford wires came in a few different sizes. I thought about goign that route but I do not want that narrow of a rear tire, and I'm sure the old wheels would need some work or wouldn't be strong enough. So I figured the new ones were the way to go. On the drop, and such..... If I ever get the body on the chassis, maybe we can see what it will look like. Right now the body looks like it is ready to set on a 4x4 chassis. Haha
On the pic of the project car you posted. The stock wheels just don't "feel" right.. to few spokes imho.. it leaves a big gap that just draws my eye in to the hole...
Wire wheels look okay on a Triumph or an MG... but to each his own right?!?!?!
I agree, I don't exactly like the less spokes in those wheels. I just think the wire wheels help give it an old look. First I have to raise the funds o make it a reality. (If I don't change my mind first.) Haha
Maybe you can convince those kids that a soft bristle brush, soapy water and a hose squatting in front of a wire wheel is fun! Maybe re-read that part of Tom Sawyer where he's painting the fence before you start recruiting your wheel scrubbers....
Something tells me it might be fun for 3 minutes and off to the pedal tractors and trikes it would be. Ha Ha
I've been pondering the idea of putting hydraboost on instead of a vacuum booster. I'm not finding any pressure reduction valves to put in line before the rack to keep from blowing the seals on it. Anyone have any suggestions?
Check Borgeson - https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produ...productid=1716 They mention a pressure reduction kit for their hydroboost pump.
Thanks Roger. My biggest thought is, will the power be limited to the hydraboost with lower pressure? I guess it will be in a 3000lb car and you really don't need full potential compared to a 8000lb truck hauling 10,000lb or more.
I'm going to put this link here so I can find it easier later. I'm putting another parts list together so I can start work on the car soon.
Borgeson Universal Power Steering Pump Pressure-Reducing Kits 899001 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I finally made my mind up and I'm going to stick with it. I sold the 5.3, and will be sticking the Hemi in the 40. I couldn't stand the thought anymore of not following through with the Hemi. Recently I purchased a NOS weiand dual quad intake for it, and a 392 water cross over. Once the tax return comes in, I plan to buy the parts to rebuild the engine. That will be a wad. Haha
After doing some more searching, I found a valve to reduce the pressure to the rack but allow full pressure to the hydraboost unit.
ADJUSTABLE POWER STEERING VALVE (PS-101) - HEIDTS
I actually found it in this installation page.
http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.com/hydroboost.html