The voltage will fluctuate between 0 and 6 volts depending on which side you have actuated .
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The voltage will fluctuate between 0 and 6 volts depending on which side you have actuated .
That's what I'm getting thru the sockets on both tails with the turn circuit working. reading just about exactly battery voltage on and off like it should.
Ken,Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
I agree for turns, but that jumper is the brake circuit which appears to jumper both sides together. If so, then when he jumpers power to the brake switch lead then the bright filaments in both sides should light. What I cannot figure out, without an internal schematic of that turn signal unit, is the case where you press the brake, and at the same time have one turn signal "on", in which case both rear lamps should be "bright", with one flashing for turn. I don't see how that is accomplished with this switch.
I don't see how it would work like that ither, unless it was not taken into account given turn signals were still pretty new.. I think I can jumper the stop switch with a diode so it doesn't back feed and get around the broken jumper in the switch. I may have to pull the switch apart again, which is a pain.
"can I make the repair outside of the switch? as in jumper from the brake light switch to the LH turn/stop wire?"
No you will lose the turn signal function for the left side and end up with brake light only. It sounds like the switch is toast.
Does your switch look like the one pictured in the drawing, if so there is a very good chance you can just open it up.
Could be just a dirty wiper for the left side. Best suggestion hit it with some contact cleaner, aka tuner cleaner.
This guy shows a very similar wiring layout as you posted.
Universal Turn Signal Switch | 7-wire unit for vehicles with combination stop and turn signal lamps requiring brake light circuit.
BTW the only thing that makes the switch/unit 12v or 6v is the flasher.
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http://s4d703ab4768b0.img.gostorego....ng-diagram.jpg
"you press the brake, and at the same time have one turn signal "on", in which case both rear lamps should be "bright", with one flashing for turn. I don't see how that is accomplished with this switch.''
* With RH turn selected; the switch opens the brake switch voltage path to the RH bulb. At the same time it creates a new path for the flasher voltage out the to the bulb. Think of it as a double poll single throw switch.
This is why only a turn flashing signal is seen out back when the break has been applied.
I'v had it apart and it's all good and tight. I could hit with some contact cleaner.. My switch is very similar to that, but I'd like to keep the switch I have because it's the original self canceling switch, even if it doesn't work 100%. This car will only go to a few shows in the area, and possibly down to the ice cream stand.
The turn signal switch is a double pole double throw since it has a rest or neutral position. If it was a single throw you would always have one side or the other flashing dependent on switch position.
I can understand that in that, just trying to point out all options. Fond of the 51 first car I drove sitting on phone books. So the turn signal cancels after the turn is made, how does that happen? I wish I could see a picture of the switch.
Theres a wheel that spins on column. Pulling the lever into a position pushes the wheel into the colomn so it spins, when it spins the opposite way, it puts pressure on the lever and pushes it back to center. Simple mechanism, but it works well.
http://i47.tinypic.com/s6uhdl.jpghttp://i45.tinypic.com/2wdws2t.jpg
Ok thanks I though it would look like that, love the wheel action. I had that picture in my head was not sure . Next time you have it off take a picture so I can see the switch itself. There could be an outside chance a substitute can be found. I am always amaze how much changes but stays the same.
I see a suicide knob . Perfect!