would be better if it paid off in diamonds....:toocool:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
oh, and like Nick said about your crack.....:eek::LOL::LOL:
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would be better if it paid off in diamonds....:toocool:Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
oh, and like Nick said about your crack.....:eek::LOL::LOL:
Maybe I cracked the Shroud of Meller on'a diamond shaped stage??? Whew!!
must be the heat! :LOL::LOL:
Boy I hope that's all it is
Isn't that from Shakespeare ? :whacked:**)Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Wow Charlie, no kiddin'? 12 feet long? That should cool it!Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
Guess I missed a shift :LOL::LOL::LOL:
I kinda figured that reconnecting the tranny cooler lines to the radiator was gonna be the hardest thing for me (because of limited space, vision and old body) and I WAS CORRECT. It ate my lunch but it's connected and I'm gonna let the feller that's doing my exhaust and lowering block removal take a look at it and ?hopefully? make it better.
Here's a pic showing 3 things.
1.the part of the shroud that had to be removed because of fan interference
2.a slight crimp in the tubing (been there a while I imagine, cause I didn't do it)
3.and last but by no means least the end of a pull tie that is holding the closest line in place (Barro Bros. Curse prolly?)
All I know is if it holds water, cools and shifts enuff to get me to the mechanics next week, then this job is FINISHED.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1374420548
#%$&@%$&#@%$&#@&%@$
Nee help, fellers !
I put half of the coolant back in the radiator and then cranked it - - - had problems almost immediately.
1. it started puking out the overflow tube almost immediately but finally stopped
2. when it finally started warming up, it did it FAST and was climbing into 200 when I shut it down
3. after shutting it down the top radiator hose was starting to get warm and the bottom was cold but I could still hold my hand on the top tank
4. I imagine that the thermostat has to open before it will allow me to put the rest of the coolant in -?right?
5. the fan is sucking air thru the radiator just fine or it seems to be
6. ALL I know to do is wait until it cools down and see if I can get the rest of the coolant in the system????????
Any suggestions? I'm at a total loss - - - mainly because it has NEVER warmed up this fast before and ?I thought? that everything I have done was to make it cool better. It could be my "pea brain" but I don't think so.
HELP????????????????????????????????????
I've had air in the line before that has caused weird problems with coolant, and heating. Seems strange the thermostat didn't open, do you know what temp the thermostat is set to open? Was the radiator full to the top when you started?
Are you sure the temp gauge is accurate or were you using a thermometer?
thanks for the reply, Sto, the rad was full to the top but there wasn't any in the engine block but after it got hot and I let it cool - - - I put the rest of the coolant in - - - - then I cranked it and it did the same dang thing - - - it will just ease up and then when it gets to 190 it goes in a hurry to 200 - - - this may be a Gomer question but "COULD it be a defective radiator cap causing this???"
I'm at a loss because I haven't done any thing (?that I know ifS?) to change it except install a new shroud and fan and move the tranny line to the bottom tank of the rad ?????????
Em,
I always drill a small, nominal 1/8" hole in the thermostat disk to let the air bleed out of the engine while filling the system. Without the hole it is too easy to get air trapped at the thermostat housing, and the thermostat won't open until the bi-metal spring is surrounded by coolant. Catch 22, and very frustrating. Pull your stat, drill a hole and then listen as you fill and you'll hear the air bubbling out through the hole. Works like a charm, and provides the added benefit of a very slight flow through the closed stat to get the warm water circulating faster.
Sorry bout the absence but I had to cook lunch - - - "house work is my full time job - - - screwing up Fairlane's is just partime". Sto, I just installed a 180 degree thermostat - - - wish I'd known about the 1/8" hole that Roger mentioned a couple of months ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Randy, all ll I had to tell was the temp gauge under the dash.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
Thanks Roger, as I mentioned above, I just finished installing a new 180 thermostat and I guess that "hind sight is really 20/20 but I'll have to address the stat at a later time.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
TWO QUESTIONS: First one is, when the upper hose gets warm/hot doesn't that mean that the thermostat is open? Secondly, could it possibly be the radiator cap? The reason I ask is that's about the "only" improvement (using the work loosely) I haven't made to the cooling system, except for a new radiator.
One thing new that I've noticed is that it is puking out the overflow tube more than it has ever done before.
Thanks for your replies, gentlemen.
Em
Have you fixed that line from the pump to the manifold????????????
Most likely you have a bunch of air in the block/heads------and the air will expand more than liquid and cause that bubbling-----------
You can reverse fill it by removing the upper hose and pouring the coolant into engine until it reverse filla the radiator to the top
:):)not yet but it's on my list but just not at the top - - - I'm almost sure that the heater core leaks because it's not connected - - - another BB fix that I'll have to contend with at a later date but right now I'm just trying to reap the benefits of my hard work and it's not cooperating.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
If I keep cranking, warming, cooling and filling, will I eventually get the air bubbles out?