i would go dry on the carb gaskets.
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i would go dry on the carb gaskets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
Without a doubt and use a good quality gasket, not one of those card board POS. I would also snug the nuts down evenly before final tightening as that will ensure that you don't warp the base which can put the throttle shaft(s) in a bind and also cause vacuum leaks.
As Roger said I only use gasket, torque lightly, retorque after several runs...several times, just something I got into the habit. :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Howdy Y'all - - it's Gomer again !
Well, I got the carb mounted with no problem and now I have a couple more questions.
The only vacuum lines that were on the "old" carb were the PCV and the Vacuum advance, however, there are several additional vacumm ports that I had no place for. Please notice the 4 that I've marked with green arrows and see if there is any that must be used or if they are just not needed in my situation. The one with the red cap on the left was also covered on the old carb but the one on the right didn't exist on the old carb. I'm thinking that one might have been for a stock air cleaner but I really don't know for sure????
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf0103dd7.jpg
There are two capped vacuum ports in the pic below - - - one is very very small on the left and has a blue cap it is also right next to one of the air adjusting screws and I haven't a clue as to what it might be. The one on the right seems to be a PCV port that I didn't need because of the one on the heat plate that is under the carb - - - it was also under on the old carb and the old one didn't have the extra port like the new one does.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps31258c50.jpg
If anyone sees anything that I need to address then please let me know. I would also like to that Y'all for all our input, suggestions and comments.
Em
Emmett, did your new carb come with a set of instructions that includes a diagram of the carb identifying the intended use for the various ports? If not, what is the model designation, and a Google search may well turn up some information in the form of install posts or tech support information. Off hand, I wouldn't worry with any of the ports that were not hooked up before. Sounds like your replacement carb covers some newer models, too, which likely had more pollution stuff that required different vacuum sources.
No such luck Roger - - - no instructions just a carb in a vacumm packed bag and, of course, the bill hahaha
It is a Motorcraft 2100 2 bbl and I have tried to find something online but to no avail.
Here you go, Emmett. Click the link, and then look to the lower right for "Download (34.7MB). Some guy made his manual available to others - Ford 2brl Carb.zip
Just my luck, it wouldn't download for me and I tried 3 times.
I've got it downloaded. PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
Roger, I finally got it downloaded but it wouldn't open and eventually froze my computer and I had to reboot. I've been having problems with this computer lately so it would probably be a waste of time. Thank anyway I do appreciate your trouble.
Em
Em,
I opened the zip file and there are five MSWord files, each in the 7000KB range. I'll be happy to e-mail you the MSWord files, which you should be able to open without any problem, as long as you have Word installed? Either way is OK, but if you want the files send me your e-mail.
A rule of thumb on vac. from carb. any port in base plate is manifold vac. any port above is ported (dist vac adv.)
Em,
You should have all five files now. I opened the first of the five Word files and that is a VERY comprehensive manual on the 2100 carb! Tons of pictures, internal cutaways to show exactly where all the ports run, and a good description, too. The lead page says it was OEM for '58 through '75, so having a bunch of "extra" ports makes sense for those '70's applications. That carb is used by a lot of guys on Jeeps, replacing their stock carb on the 4.0 in-line 6, and earlier models too. Hope the book helps.
Thanks Roger and NTFDAY but, as I've mentioned before, for some reason I can't open the Word Files. However, my "genius" step-son is coming today for Mom's Day and I'll get him to fix this for me. I have been having problems with my computer so I may get him to burn them to a CD for me also, if it's possible.
Em
Maybe my luck's changing? I decided to take a look and make a list of what I might possibly need for an accelerator linkage and after I got to messing with it, I made do with what I had and I think it will work just fine. All I had to do was to cut off all the "Barrio Riggin", cut some more threads down on the rod, drill a cotter key hole and then cut it to length. Anybody see anything that I missed? Now I need to rig a return spring of some kind and that part should be done. I've been watching some videos on the electric choke and setting the carb and I ?may? have some things figured out on the starting also.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psb09b2aaa.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps4fa5a3c6.jpg
recommend 2 return springs. Ya just never know.
Your linkage rod needs to be on the top bracket, not the bottom
Ken,Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
I think you may need to clarify what you mean by "top bracket"? Maybe Em knows what you mean, but I don't follow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Sorry, poor choice of words. I should have said top arm instead of bottom arm. As you press the throttle the top arm will pull towards the firewall while the bottom arm will push towards the radiator.
I'm confused also - - - - 'splain please ??
I'm still not fully understanding what you are saying, Ken.
Here's the way the "Barrio Brothers" had it on the old one.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps82836a0c.jpg
Charlie, are you serious about 2 return springs?
How about one good strong one instead?
Not on the carb, the linkage mounted on the rear of the manifold.
OK, are you talking about A or B ? or neither???
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps13c5abcc.jpg
The rod from the carb should attach to "A"
A doesn't move forward or backwards, Ken, it only rotates (revolves around) up and down on the rod above B. It does look like it would either push or pull but it doesn't.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psffadedb4.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa72cf42b.jpg
A doesn't move forward or backwards, Ken, it only rotates (revolves around) up and down on the rod above B. It does look like it would either push or pull but it doesn't.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psffadedb4.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa72cf42b.jpg
serious yes I always use 2 light springs if you loose one the carb will still return. WOT is not cool when not expected.
Not a real good shot but there are 3 on here
Hmmmm, good point indeed - - - - so now I have to redesign my bracket but it will be well worth the effort. Might even have to put them in 2 different locations???? but maybe not.
Thanks Charlie,
Em
As soon as the rain lets up a little I'll get you a picture of what it should look like
Safety first.
"they" (barrio brothers) may have changed the linkage to the transmission as the kick-down linkage would tie in there also.
Is there another rod (that can you see) that goes down to the transmission? If not, then I would try it as you had it and see how it reacts...
Maybe once Ken posts a picture it'll be clearer.. I think I have a Motor Manual that shows the linkage too... but I'm in Louisiana right now and won't get back home for another week.. so I won't be much help! 8-)
Sorry guys, the linkage on the Mustang is not the same, I guess I was thinking of the linkage on the 73 Ranger I had. One thing for sure the carb linkage should be as parallel as possible otherwise you can put the carb throttle shaft in a bind.
Thanks, Ken, I appreciate it and Mike, I'm gonna have to check for a kick-down but it will have to be after we get it up on jack stands and fix the oil pan plug.
Em
Em,
On the two spring comment, a good way to solve that is to use one large diameter spring, say maybe 3/4" or even 5/8", and a second smaller diameter spring of the same length, say 3/8" to 1/2" with the smaller spring inside the larger. They use common points of attachment, and provide the desired safety backup function. A good hardware store will have a wide range of springs, as will a good automotive parts house.
I like that idea Roger and it helps me on space and looks also. I'll see what they have in Yuppieville this morning and hopefuly git'er done this weekend.
Speaking of weekends, hope everyone has a good'un,
Em
Here's what I'm thinking about doing as soon as I can get to the store and pick up a few items. I want to build and connect the spring bracket to the carb mounting stud and then attach the return spring or springs from the hole in the carb linkage to a I-bolt in the bracket. This way it will be pulling directly against the accelerator linkage kinda like the tug-a-rope game. Whatcha think?
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2b46f0fd.jpg
yep. just make sure the bracket (if loose) cant turn and release tension. Cause as you know crazy stuff happens.
Em, this is what the set-up on my Mustang looks likeAttachment 58048
Thanks Ken,
Here's what I came up with and I also plan to add another larger diameter spring over this one but I also may have to use weaker or longer springs 'cause this one sure stiffens the linkage movement.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps95b4bf11.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps605ca034.jpg
