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If I said that GMTA, it would only be including Jerry and Rrumbler - - - HOWEVER, while I was out doing honey'dos I thought to myself ?self? I wonder if it would be a good idea to pull the wiper arms off until you get this thing going your way ? - - - then self said why not ask ???? - - - so I decided to post that question when I got back home -- - no need to post it now - - - thanks guys
Em
OK Jerry and Rrumbler, I pulled the wipers off that had been on there since it left ?Dearborn? in '62 and surprisingly enuff, I didn't break anything in the process. Then I took some masking tape and wrapped around the splined units that the blades slip onto and kinda made a little mini-wiper so I could see what was happening when I threw the juice to them. Disconnected the wiper motor from the switch at the 2 connection plug and then took a test wire and connected one end to a hot lead with the ignition on and then touched the other to one connection coming from the motor and then the other - - - it did exactly what I wanted it to and it verified that the run wire and park wire were properly identified. WOO HOO
I either need to change some leads around on the switch and see if I can get it to work properly or get a new switch which I'm not opposed to at all but the old one is kinda nostalgic looking. In the morning I will switch the run and park wires to opposite terminals and see what happens. Do you think there would be a terminal on the back of the switch that could cause damage to the motor if supplied with power? ???wonder what the possibility is that the switch doesn't have a park terminal - - - hell, it's got about 8 I think?
The switch is simply that, a switch that directs power so there's not much way the switch can damage your motor. Do you have a Volt/Ohm Meter? A few minutes with a VOM and you can map out exactly what that switch is doing, and how to hook it up to make your motor work right.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
YES, I do have a meter but I 'ONLY" use it for two things 1.presence of voltage and 2. continuity and Rrumbler had to tell me which setting to use to check those. I am electrically illiterate and have always been so I don't even try to understand it - - - probably because I've always been scared of it and of burning things up because of a possible screw up - - - now you know the rest of the story.
Two ways to check the switch. 1) You can apply 12V with a test lead to the terminal that you believe is the "hot" input. Then with the black lead of your meter grounded check each of other switch terminals with your red lead and see if any have voltage with the switch "OFF". Then turn your switch to each of the "ON" positions, and again check each of the switch terminals with your red lead, making a diagram of what you find. 2) With your meter in the "Continuity" (Resistance) position, put one lead on the terminal that you believe to be the "hot" input, and then look for continuity (electrical path) on each of the other terminals with the switch "OFF", and then in each "ON" position, again making a diagram of which terminals are "HOT" in each switch position. A little analysis of the outcome should point you to the right terminals for the motor to work right.
What's to check? After running the motor, turn switch to off, after it has reached the "park position", re-install wiper arms in the "park position". Done!
Yeah, Mike, I accomplished that by bypassing the switch altogether but now the switch wiring is the issue - - - I have figured out where the park position is with Jerry's suggestion of bypassing the switch so now I gotta get the switch wired correctly. I may be able to figure out something with the meter using the continuity feature but we will have to see. ???
TAA,
Em
Never mind.......Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
Missed the part of you bypassing the switch.. Sorry Em. Seems I upset RSpears too! What else is new! LOL..Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
You didn't upset me, Mike. I was just pointing out that Em was having trouble figuring out the terminals on his switch, and that getting the motor running & parked was the first step. By the time I hit "Submit" he'd already explained that he'd bypassed the switch, etc, etc. My post was redundant, again....Quote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
I'm headed to O'Reilly's in the morning to pick up a wiper switch for a "single" motor - - which should fix my problem, providing they have the terminals identified that is. I have it wired correctly now so getting a good simple switch should do the trick.
thanks again,
Em
Just a point I want to make sure you have a grasp of-----------the hot wire feed to the park position does not need to go anywhere near the wiper switch---it just needs to be a fused wire that is hot all the time---the other feed for the run position needs to be a fused feed from a source that is controlled by the ignition switch in the ignition on position---------
OK, now I'm totally confused - - - - the new switch I am looking at has 4 terminals on the back of it
1. Power
2. Park
3. High
4. Low (my motor is only one speed)
There are two wires coming from the motor one is park and one is run and then I have a fused ignition serviced wire gong to the switch also.
Em
just use ONE of them High or Low the motor don't know and the switch don't care
Cool! I was skimming over the posts catching up and I "saw it all so clear".. LOL..:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
And then reality set in! :eek:
That'll learn me!:HMMM::):LOL::eek::whacked: