Roger and I seem to be notorious for posting at the same time or should I say ?almost? the same time but it's all in the name of enjoyment so that makes it OK in my book.
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Roger and I seem to be notorious for posting at the same time or should I say ?almost? the same time but it's all in the name of enjoyment so that makes it OK in my book.
O.K. EM your going to have to post a video once they're wiping! Glad your patient and perservering with the wiring, Electrics on a car can be very confusing, don't even mention anything newer than 1974!
Em,Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
I expect your switch is three position, "Off/Park", "Low", and "High". If you use the "Low" for your "ON" then the switch goes from the static "Off/Park" to "ON", and you'll have a dead position past your "ON". If you use the "High" then you'll go from "Off/Park" to a dead spot, then to your "ON". I wouldn't want the dead spot in the middle, but it'll work either way.
Roger, I ordered this switch from Speedway today Universal Windshield Wiper Switch for Single Motor - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop since none of the Parts Houses in Yuppieville, Texas had a Universal Wiper Switch. If you'll look at the PDF it appears that I can do exactly what you have mentioned and just use L for my run wire. Thanks for the info.
Em
Well, I got my switch from Speedway and was already to do my ?final? installation and call it "DONE" - - - hahahaha, yeah right !nodisbelief
decided to test it one more time to see where Park was so I could reinstall the wiper arms and this is what I discovered.
SEE PIC - - I put some pull-ties on the splined wiper posts that the arms slip onto and found out that when I put the pull-ties where it is supposed to park SEE RED LINE it wiped the hood AT THE BLUE LINE but when I put it to where it would wipe the windshield, it parked at the GREEN LINE.
Now, it wasn't running when I bought it and then I took it off and had my friend fix the motor, HOWEVER, when I was installing the motor the round nylon piece that has teeth on the entire edge fell out along with a brass plate that covered half the nylon wheel so I crossed my fingers and put it back like I ?thought? it belonged and it ran and parked OK but it might not have been turning in the proper direction (it's a possibility that I did something wrong but also a possibility that the Barrio Bros did) All I know to do is to take it back off and tear into it to see if anything could be changed. I don't think the motor will run but one direction will it???????????? ANYBODY got any suggestions???? Don't be cruel, OK?:LOL::LOL::LOL:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0ed57223.jpg
I'm almost to the giving up point on doing this wiper motor project myself and I may just bite the bullet and haul it up to my Friend'$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Em,
I'd say that the "...round nylon piece that has teeth on the entire edge fell out along with a brass plate that covered half the nylon wheel" was put back wrong. I took my MightyWiper apart at one point, and it took me a couple of hours of constant playing & adjustment to get it back so that the rotation made the proper cyclic motion again. You might be time ahead to take it to someone who understands how it works.
Yesterday on the way to Bryan and back the Fairlane ran at a constant 190 degrees (130 miles round trip) but when I checked the radiator today there was about a pint of coolant in the overflow bottle. I could also see the top of the core at the inlet. So I poured the coolant back in and topped it out again.
Question is this: Is this normal and I'll just have to keep an eye on it after a long run or should I look into some kind of return system to automatically put it back in after it cools down?
Em
only takes a different cap--------
I don't believe that system was intended to cycle coolant. And if I remember right, you built a catch can... so you should be leaving some expansion room at the top of the radiator.
And, it's an old car that you're still learning what is "normal".. for it. So I'd say keep an eye on it until you get comfortable with what's normal fer her. That's my two cents anyway.
Is that the first trip of any distance? If so I wouldn't worry too much about it though I would keep an eye on it. Don't fill it all the way to the top, there has to be some room for expansion.
Like Jerry said, the only difference is the cap and a properly plumbed recovery bottle, allowing liquid to be pulled back in as the system cools. That eliminates the air/coolant interface in the top tank, reduces corrosion, and maximizes coolant volume. I always run with 100% fill and recovery.
Thanks Y'all, I'll keep an eye on it and in the meantime check on the possibilities of a closed system. Especially since most of my trips are around 20 miles total. :rolleyes:
S'me again**) I'm wanting to get the tires on the'62 to the same size and not 16"s in the rear and 14"s in the front. I also want to get rid of the full moons and go to ?maybe? a spinner or dog dish. The 80s dog dishes I have are gonna require some major rim searching because of their inside diameter so I'm considering just changing the rear rims to 14" and then maybe some wheel covers. I have found some mid-sixties FORD open spoke spinners that I like but I'm wondering about the rim showing thru the open spokes. So, after all that rambling, does anyone have any suggestions as to the color to paint the rims so they provide an attractive background for something like this?
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7974643d.jpg
Footnote: I was previously thinking of 15" all around but I don't think I have turning radius room in the front wheel well.
TIA
Meller
Satin Black! The rim will disappear.
hmmmm??? velly interthestingQuote:
Originally Posted by 34_40
thanks Mike