Your gas pedal linkage, mounted on the firewall, looks to be the same as what I have on the Mustang. Do you have a kick down cable for the trans?
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Your gas pedal linkage, mounted on the firewall, looks to be the same as what I have on the Mustang. Do you have a kick down cable for the trans?
My question is if the nut on the bracket loosens won't the bracket turn on the stud? Yea I know I'm a worry wart but I have seen things go wrong before. If your bracket were longer toward the rear it couldn't torn even if loose. Just want you around to pick on for a bit longer.LOL
Ken, I haven't had the ?ability? to check for a kick down cable but when my son comes over to help me fix the oil pan drain plug we'll have it up on jack stands and take a look. I'm kinda limited right now as far as contortion goes. hahaha
Charlie, I am studying on a way to make sure that bracket can't turn and I've got a few ideas but nothing firm yet, however, I too would like for me to stay around for you to pick on. hahaha
This is what the one on the Mustang looks likeAttachment 58049
Thanks, my son used to be shop manager for Aamco and also a Privately owned Transmission shop so hopefully he will know. I remember he helped set my kick down on my '55 one time.
Got the electric choke wired today and now I need to google and see how to set it before trying to crank it again.
As evident in the picture below, my plug wires on the MSD need majoring cleaning up and, since I received a good report from my eye doctor, I have a plan as to how I want it to look. I'm also thinking that I need to get the type of wires that you make up yourself and cut to the proper length. The wires that are currently on there are at least 2 times too long so there's not a way to make them look and work good.
I'm also assuming that MSD wires and regular Distributor Ignition wires are the same except for maybe their quality ?right? A friend of mine has offered me the use of his "super crimping pliers" which he says is a must use to do this correctly. Does anyone have any particular brand of wire that they can recommend? Price is important but not the only consideration for me. TAA Meller
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps31f16b44.jpg
For the street, I use Taylor wires. Good quality and a decent price!
Em, I used MSD's universal wires, and they have a nifty vice clamp to crimp the terminals in place. Their clamping tool is also a cutting gauge to get the rubber cut back from the center conductor right, and then crimps the terminals exactly right in the vice. I'd buy them again - in fact I DID buy them again, because I cooked the first set with a tuning snafu that overheated my headers and melted two or three wires.
Are these what you're talking about Roger?
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...,_HEI_Cap.aspx
I like the Ford Motorsport wires.. And alot of guys on SBF Tech use the same set. Summit lists them.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ta...view/make/ford
I like these too and they come in different colors. MSD is nice, a little overpriced for the street. I have Moroso on the Mustang.
Same one's I use Ken!!!! Never had any problems with them, dang good for the price!
These are the ones I used, Em, and it shows the vise terminal clamp in the picture, too - http://www.msdignition.com/Products/...2%B0_Plug.aspx I didn't remember them being so expensive but I needed the universal as opposed to pre-fit.
thanks gents, decision decisions decisions
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
I checked the last set I bought on my trusty Simpson VOM and there was less than 500 ohms on any wire, that's plenty good enough for the street and it'd hard to beat the price.
where they specifically for your 302, Ken?
what I'm really wanting also is not so much wire to deal with so cutting and fitting seemed like an option for me
I always thought that VOM was the abbreviation for Vaarrroooomm :D
The last set of Taylor's I bought were for a 390 I had.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ta.../model/mustang
If I didn't have the Moroso's on the Mustang this is what I would buy. These are blue and they also come in red and black.
Em, I really think you're going to be happier with a Universal set of wires where you install the plug end cut-to-fit than you will with a pre-made set. I'm not promoting Summit as the only source, but they DO have a very nice shopping feature to narrow down your selection. On their site go to Spark Plug Wire Sets, then on the left side use the "Narrow Your Resluts" and start selecting the things you want - V8, Universal Set (Yes), Assembled (No), and most important the style of ends for both the distributor and the plug boot angle. You can narrow down to a dozen or so choices, even limiting the color - a really easy to use search engine.
Looks like I might be the odd man out here. On that 351 I put together several years ago, I used Mallory wires; they came with the plug end boots and terminals already on them, and I put them into a loom and fit and crimped on the distributor cap ends; came out quite nice.
Don't see where you set the choke yet.. so I'll give some highlights to get her goin'..
first thing in the morning, with the air cleaner off!
open (keep open) the throttle about 1/2 way, with the fasteners for the choke spring housing loose, turn the choke housing so that the choke plate (butterfly) opens and closes. With the plate just barely closed, there should be lines under a pointer at the top, after the plate closes, go one extra line. (turning the cap in that direction is called "richer", turning the cap so the butterfly opens is called "leaner")
Tighten the choke housing and behind the housing is a cam, make sure the cam has the fast idle screw hovering above the top step.
Release the throttle from the halfway position and double check the fast idle screw is now on the top step of the choke cam.
If all looks well, (pump the throttle 2 or 3 times and start the motor without depressing the gas pedal. After startup, if the idle is to high or to low, you can change that on the idle adjustment screw behind the choke housing. If it puts out black exhaust, you'll need to lean the choke out by turning in the opposite direction that you did to close the plate.. Or if it starts and dies quickly, it may need a richer choke so you'll turn it in the same direction that you first did to add another line at the top.
After a moment or two, you should be able to "blip" the throttle and it should come off the peak of high idle, but still be on the high idle cam.. The engine should be turning maybe 8 to 1000 rpm and should be fast enough so that it won't die when dropped into drive.
Once the engine is mostly up to full temp, the choke should already be wide open and you'll be on the regular idle screw...
There's the quick and dirty FoMoCo choke adjustment... been doing it this way for decades and it should work for you. Keep us updated as we'll be waiting for news!
thanks Mike, I'll let you know how it comes out - - - - btw, the aftermarket kit doesn't have any marks that I could see but "seeing" hasn't been my best talent lately hahahaha
preciate it,
Em
Then once the plate closes, place some marks on either side of some central point so you can make further adjustments if needed..
will do, Mike, I kinda overdid it yesterday and we're getting a storm this morning so I'm gonna use that as an excuse to kick back and rest today - - - - tomorrow is another story tho !
Em, it would help if you post a picture of your new electric choke assembly mounted on the engine - maybe one pic showing the side of the carb for perspective, and a close up of the choke housing.
Decided to do this real quickly before we lose power - - - big storm rolling thru this morning.
Cold Engine Ignition Off
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd7dd59b1.jpg
Cold Engine Ignition Off
(OK, the housing does have marks, but the cap doesn't, I told you "I no look so good")
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps348227c7.jpg
Cold Engine Ignition Off and Half Throttle
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd2795714.jpg
Good luck weathering the storm, Em.
PS: ^ those are some nice pics but that's not a subject I can help you with.
SO???? How's it working??? LOL..
just like him......not at all :LOL::LOL::LOL:
Well, I figure it's time for an update so here goes.
First of all I want to thank Denny, Mike, Ken, Roger, Dave W., Iwannagofast and ALL THE OTHERS for their invaluable help in getting my Gomer Pyle brain thru all of this ?so far?
Since I posted last, my efforts have been directed towards stopping the oil leak at the oil pan drain plug so I could at least try and get it started. It seems that the problem wasn't a stripped plug at all but a leak outside the edge of the normal plug and gasket which ?kinda? explains what the Barrio Brothers had done.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...pseb481ba9.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...pse5dca089.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psabc7597b.jpg
So for now, I have solved the problem temporarily with a longer plug that accomodates a proper fitting larger brass washer and rubber washer.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5591d822.jpg
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps36e8ea1d.jpg
So far it is holding oil very nicely but once I get it to where I can get it on the ramps then I'll address this more carefully and properly.
I also have rebuilt the carb return spring bracket so that it wouldn't turn sideways like Roger mentioned it might. I also applied some proper springs to the build.
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps41c0ea91.jpg
The linkage is now inline and runs straight and level instead of running at an angle but I still haven't addressed the kick-down which Ken keeps reminding me of. Thanks Ken, I need all the memory help I can get.
AND Last but by no means least - - - mounting the new carb and getting it cranked. I'll try to be brief but the bottom line is that during the process of learning how to set the electric choke (thanks Gentlemen), putting the spacer between the intake and the carb in upside down (a supreme Gomer moment, I might add)
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...psf24bc046.jpg
It is still needing some adjusting by someone a lot more qualified than me. Hopefully I can find a local Rodder/Mechanic/Compassionate do-gooder that will let me pay him/her to come over and take a look.
Guess that about brings my "fiasco" up to date and I have managed to get it cranked but with an idle of 1400 rpms according to the tachometer on the dash. It started to work on my nerves so I'm backed off of it for a few days and doing some much needed yard work and R&R.
Once I get it to crank and idle properly then I'll be moving on to replacing the plug wires, cleaning up the rat's nest Barrio wiring and a shroud on the radiator along with some tweeking there. Then it's off to the Pros from some dual exhausts out the rear and some tranny checking, including the kick-down and cooler. Should be winter time by then and a lot cooler.:LOL:
Thanks again to everyone who has been so generous and kind with their help.
Em
your high idle may be caused by a vac. leak?
Good work so far Mello keep the pix coming. In my old 302 had the same oil leak , turned out the threads to pan were stripped and a helacoil fixed it. Course that was 30 years ago.
Charlie, I have looked and changed and tightened everything I know to do. However the new carb does have several vacum ports that I had to block off because of not needing them so it's gonna take someone with the ability to find it cause I have looked.Quote:
Originally Posted by cffisher
thanks,
Em
"Look" with a can of carb cleaner! Spray carb cleaner around all the intake mating surfaces, carb fittings, etc, etc and if the rpm goes up you've found the area of the leak. Then some selective spraying can isolate it to a specific item leaking. Just a thought....Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
thanks Roger, that will be my next move but it may be Tuesday before that happens - - - - grocery day tomorrow - - - YUCK !
I hope it doesn't turn out your vacuum leak is at the carb base/intake manifold where I suggested Permatex (Form-A-Gasket #3).
Not more than 2 minutes ago my wife said something poignant about the fact that "we" haven't done the food shopping yet this weekend so my first reply was "we don't need no stinkin' shopping" but I don't think she liked that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
in my many years of being incarcerated I have found that it's easier to just do it and avoid the verbal beating
Around my neck of the woods we call that being whipped... not incarcerated.. I'm sure we all suffer gladly! HAH! :LOL::LOL:
Got it cranked - - - idling at 1400 rpms - - - let it run until choke opened and then sprayed starting fluid around the base gasket - - - "voila" it sped up so I've got a leak there for sure - - - - next move is to NAPA for new gaskets and maybe some "stickem"????Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
TAA,
Em
Em,Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
You really don't want any type of "stickum" on a carb base. If everything is flat and clean the gasket will seal. If it's not clean, clean it and scrape gently with a single edge razor blade being careful not to gouge the surfaces. If it's not flat you need to fix that by surfacing the faulty part. A good surfacing block is a piece of glass with some fine sandpaper on top. If you research the carb to intake joint you'll find that clean and dry is the way to go.
