What's the deal with the shroud / fan?
Does it run hot / overheat?
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What's the deal with the shroud / fan?
Does it run hot / overheat?
gonna order wires later this week - - - - the PO said that it will get hot in slow traffic during the summer and the fan is waaaaaayyyy too far from the radiator plus it doesn't have a thermostat so that's gotta be addressed also - - - think I'll do the wires and looms while I'm deciding on the shroud/fan/etc
Glad you see it my way! LOL.. Were you thinking of using a "universal" type shroud and fitting it? Perhaps a early Mustang shroud would fit? I think the radiator sizing is the same..
Em,Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
You're down where a thermostat is a necessity unless you've got a huge radiator, from my experience in the Corpus Christi area years back. You can make up a dynamite shroud using a piece of plywood for a base form, a circle the size of the fan hole elevated on some wood blocks, a cheap piece of fleece material stretched in place and then coated with fiberglass resin. A couple of layers of mat after the fleece has set and you're done other than some cut & grind, and drilling a few mounting holes. People will be asking you where you got that slick looking shroud!!
yeah Roger, I agree, a thermostat is definitely a must do - - - as far as the make your own shroud goes - - - I have that link and ?if? I had more room in my cracker box shop then it would be a serious consideration but since we've moved down here to yuppieville I am so very limited with anything that requires a good clean surface and proper ventilation - - - Denny turned me on to one at Speedway that's a cut your own hole and 2/5" deep that just might work Walker WS70 Radiator Fan Shroud, Style F, 19-1/4 x 20-1/8 Inch - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop I may have to move the radiator towards the engine also because the pulley surface is 5" from the radiator but that all depends on how things come together- - - a 3" spacer may work?
Or four longer bolts and a cast aluminum fan extension atop the pulley, moving the fan out towards the radiator? My old Chevy had one OEM that was 2.5" to 3" long, as I recall....Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
Are you saying that you don't have the spacer on the pulley???They were common oem pieces back before the day of unleaded gas---------
Jerry - Roger, here's what it looks like now - - - the fan is 2 3/4" from the radiator and I was thinking that it needs to be around 1" from the radiator for optimum performance (????) I haven't had anything off of the front pulley as of yet but that does look like OEM doesn't it? Also, the '62 didn't come with a 289 so the relationship is NOT stock !
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps3627e232.jpg
Yeah, there's already a spacer between the pulley & fan, so all you need is a shroud to force all of the air flow through the radiator vs around it. You don't need to move the fan any closer to the radiator if you just get a good shroud.
That would be a blessing for me and my old bod for sure - - - I put one of these fans on my '55 along with a shroud and new rad and all of it combined really helped the cooling - - - what do you think about these 12oz fans vs the heavier metal stockers?
Nylon Flex Fan, 18 Inch - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
Get a longer spacer-----
That water pump is painted black on a blue engine so I assume its been replaced recently----It might be a shorter pump than whats available--I remember that Ford had several different issues with sbf being too close to the front end on some mid 80s stuff and did some different pumps/front covers---
I don't know where to tell you to look, but there are longer spacers
I also see that there are some fasteners thru the rad core---what do you have on the front of radiator?
Also---for a shroud--I used to source alum ones from I think Dayton---bases for roof fans---to made shrouds for the pro stockers
I also did one of those fiberglass fans on my 55 back then---one day it tossed a blade right pass my ear when I revved it up checking the timing---also the pic shows 4 blade fan---get the 7 blade that was on many vehicles--the 4 won't get the job done even with a shroud
And of course there is the option of the Tauras or Mk8 electric fan-------
Try this for measurements... Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories
and check out this page.... Mustangs Unlimited - The Premier Source for Mustang, Shelby and Cougar Parts and Accessories
Remember the fan needs to sit halfway into the opening of the shroud so it won't short circuit the airflow. There are lots of shrouds in there to give you ideas too, and they have the mounts! The front of that car seems to be close enough to a Mustang to fit this I think.
Wow! That'll definitely get after a cooling problem, but since the PO said that the only problem was it getting warm on a hot day in slow traffic I don't think I'd make it that big of a project unless it proves to be necessary. If it were mine I'd get a good shroud in place that fits the tilt of the fan and fits within maybe 1/2" of the blade tips, and throw a 180F stat in it and see how it does. If it still struggles I'd look at a five or seven blade fan to replace the four blader. I don't like the fiberglass fans either - dangerous units, IMO. I really don't see a burning need to get the fan any closer to the radiator - if you get the shroud right all the air it pulls will be through the radiator, even if the blade's a foot back. Like Mike mentioned, having the fan blade 1/2 way into the shroud hole is key. Should work fine, IMO, and easier than moving stuff around.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
For that coolant loss---get a modern rad cap of a little higher pressure for a coolant recovery system and run it into a catch can so it can recover the coolant as it cools down----------
Yep, that's a good catch from the photo, Jerry. A coolant recovery tank is a natural first step to solving the cooling issues, keeping the system filled and eliminating corrosion.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Em,,is the radiator clean inside?? I would be tempted to take it out and give it a good hard flush with the hose..Or,,get some radiator flush and flush the thing while its still in the car,and remove any scale that might be in the engine at the same time..
Good point, Robin, and I do need to fllush it out for sure - - - - that's on my list also especially since I just recently got it to where I can pull it out and do some flushing and checking - - - thanks for the headsup tho
Ran down to the local ethanol distilerry this evening and got her up to around 55+ for a mile or so. She ran smoothly and quite except for the &^$&*@$*@ cherry bombs and NASCAR side dump (that will change very soon) - - - she shifted real smoothly also but is still idling too fast for my taste even after she's warmed up to 190 so I backed it down to 700rpms (per the tach) but I may have to change that the next time I try and crank her - - -we will see.
Decided to just put a shroud on and not mess with the fan/spacer/etc for right now and see what happens during this July and August - - - I'll give her a good flushing also and put some fresh mixture in the rad. Also gonna order some Taylor wires and an organizer/loom/divider/thingamajig which I'll probably install first.
Front disc brakes aren't powered so I have to remember the hard pedal when in traffic but I've been there before so if "oldtimers disease" don't get me then it should work ok no more than I'll be driving it 'cause I drive them like they are made outa glass (not like they are stolen---been there done that -- ouch)
thanks all,
Em
there should be 2 idling screws one for idle when running and one for idle with choke on
are you speaking of the idle adjusting screws that have tapered seats and are located at the bottom of the bowls???
Nope there should be two near your linkage on the side of the carb
Em, the two you're referring to are Idle Mixture Screws, used to adjust the Fuel/Air Ratio at idle. If everything's right those can be adjusted to the mid-point between the lean rpm decrease point and the rich rpm decrease point, or even better adjusted for max vacuum. The one's Charlie is talking about are the ones you & I traced in the manual for normal idle speed and the fast idle speed with choke engaged, the one that rides the cam hooked to the choke plate by linkage.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
NO! those are the idle mixture screws. The "main idle" is on the drivers side and the choke idle is behind your electric choke. The choke idle sets the fast idle speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
You already know the other as you just slowed the motor to 700rpm.
RSpears beat me to it! :-)
OK, I think I got it now - - - - I'm thinking my problem is the choke idle then so I'll try it next time it's warm - - - - I backed the idle mixture screws out according to the manual (which is on my crashed computer at the moment) and it runs just great down the highway up to around 60mph anyhow.
don't shout at me Mike :LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL::LOL:
(I miss my 2 one barrel Rochs they only had two screws and a manual choke- - - - come back Jim Bob come back)
Em.. After the car is warmed up, behind the choke - where the cam mechanism is, see if you can move the cam up or down just a little bit. If it's free to move then it isn't holding the idle speed of the motor. If you moved the main idle screw and the idle came down, I'd say it isn't touching the choke cam.
thanks, Mike, I'll do that next time - - - - for some reason I'm getting a brain phart on that fast idle cam operation but I'll figure it out sooner or later
have a great weekend, Pal
Em
Em,
I'm going to toss in one more thing that's basic but sometimes overlooked. You don't have to wait for ambient temperatures to actuate the choke for setting fast idle speeds, etc, which can be an issue in south Texas especially this time of year. If you take your air cleaner off you can open the throttle enough to free up the fast idle cam & adjustment screw, and close the choke plate manually even with a hot engine, releasing the throttle to "set" the choke on fast idle. Then without touching the throttle (if you move it the choke will drop back to "hot/warm position"), adjust your fast idle to the desired rpm. A blip of the throttle will dis-engage the fast idle mechanism, and you'll then be riding on the normal idle stop. Once you visualize how the idle stop and fast idle cam work together it's quick & easy.
yesterday when I first cranked it and it warmed up to ?160? maybe, I "BLIPPED IT" and the idle dropped from 1000 to 700 but by the time I took it down the road and parked it the idle was back up to 1000 - - - "war Dept's got plans today" so I may not get to even touch it today but tomorrow's Sadeeee and I get a half day of my own (?most of the time?) - - - maybe then I can really get a look at what the choke is doing - - - damned eyes aren't helping any either.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
have a good'un Roger,
Em
long ago we used Freon to adjust chokes
If you find the fast idle cam did come back up - then verify the power didn't cut out to the electric choke...Quote:
Originally Posted by MelloYello
Em, did you ever resolve the issue with the choke getting too hot to put your hand on it? You were going to call the supplier, I believe as it should be warm to the touch, but not that hot.
seems not to be an issue now, Roger, the time it did that, I had left the key on but I put my hand on it yesterday and, even tho it was hot it wasn't blistering hot and it's sure cranking good - - - - ran down to the mailboxes today but forgot to check the choke cam when I got back - - - but I'll do it later, ?if I don't forget again? LOL
Question: can you still get those little horseshoe shaped keeper that holds the older model window cranks in place????
yep there is a section in most parts stores where the display "HELP" parts they should be there
cool, I thought I was gonna have to order a bunch but maybe not - - - thanks, Charlie - - - have a great weekend
Brief Update: found the door handle keepers and discovered that the one the Barrio Bros. had used was too small (DUH) so I put the correct size on and snapped her in place. Also flushed the radiator today and from the looks of the fluid, I'm not in as bad a shape as I thought I was - - - it was light green with very little floaties swimmin' around in it. Gonna pick up a 180 thermostat tomorrow and, if Speedway will ever answer my question about the Taylor plug wires, I should get them ordered this week sometime. Who knows NAPA may have what I want on the thermostat trip tomorrow ????
It's all starting to come together, cranks good and idles good and I'm hoping I will be able to get by with a shroud only for the Texas Summer Heat Cruises. Can't wait to get the engine bay cleaned up and looking correct without all the extra hoses, mega-long plug wires lying on the manifolds and Red Green fixes to contend with.
Hope everyone had a great weekend and thanks,
Em
Nice report, Em. Hope things keep moving in a positive direction.
It was a great weekend for me since I had my roadster's front end checked out by a very experienced local hot rod mechanic who said all is fine, then aligned it properly since it was way out. He also shimmed my passenger side door latch to make sure it latches a bit more securely...I'd hate to have the fat chicks bounce out, you know. Picking it up tomorrow and looking forward to bombing around in it again.
The "Yankee" in me was just thinking.. (dangerous ya know?) anyway.. If the wires are all to long but working, why not just shorten up what you already own?
Sure is easy enough to do! Just need some silicone spray or lube to help the boots slide back and expose the connection.
Mike, I did consider that and I still may do it - - - - I really don't like the 90* boots at the plug ends was why I was wanting to go brand new, however, if I kept the current wires then all I need is the dizzy caps - - - got a bud that's a pro mechanic that has already offered me his super stripper/crimpers - - - - - can you hear the wheels grinding? I'll know more after my NAPA trip tomorrow and if Speedway answers my inquiry.
Great minds think alike? ROFL...
GMTA all the way