Brake Light Switch Options

So the '33 roller came with a pressure switch plumbed into the brake line, and I dutifully wired it up for brake lights. It works OK, but one thing I don't like is that the brake lights are not illuminated in those times when you need only very, very light pressure to hold position. Also, the first pressure switch on it failed, which I learned when I very nearly got rear ended one afternoon :eek:.

The '32 roller from Pete & Jake's does not have the pressure switch. For you guys actually building, what are you using for a brake light switch? I have one of these "universal" switches from Speedway,

http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/...91031306_L.jpg

but it really doesn't lend itself to a through the floor pedal. Can you point me to something better, or do I need to plumb in a pressure switch and live with the way they work?

Ron Francis sells a mechanical type that may work and also a lower pressure version of the pressure type switch.

SW-42 WATER PROOF BRAKE SWITCH-Ron Francis Wiring

SW-32 LOW PRESSURE HYDRAULIC BRAKE SWITCH-Ron Francis Wiring

Those type of switches never did impress me and I've dealt with a few. That being said, if it were mine I'd wire up one that attaches to the brake pedal similar to what is on the Vette or the Mustang. If your master cylinder is under the floor as they were in early Fords the terminals can become corroded and/or loose and IMHO they are a PITA.

I had the wire come off my pressure switch and didn't know until someone told me my brake lights weren't working. Because I'm anal, I mounted a mechanical switch to my under floor pedal wired in parallel with the pressure switch (either or both switches activate the brake lights). This switch adapts well;
Universal Street Rod Adjustable Brake Light Switch | eBay

Then because I'm incredibly anal and didn't like the idea of not knowing when my brake lights were not working, I took my third brake light mounted in the rear window apart an wired an LED into it. Biased the LED dim and faced it so I could see it in the rear view mirror. Now I know when my brake lights are working. I told you I was anal, LOL!

Next a very loud peizio buzzer wired to a micro switch on my parking brake handle. Lol..

I always use a mechanical button type one on the brake pedal or triggered by a little plate on the pushrod. easier to replace and pretty foolproof.

I like some of the anal ideas above!!

Roger I don't think you can go far wrong with a OEM switch, most screw in so simple to mount, I've found the after market switches never seem to last long enough.

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Originally Posted by 36 sedan

I had the wire come off my pressure switch and didn't know until someone told me my brake lights weren't working. Because I'm anal, I mounted a mechanical switch to my under floor pedal wired in parallel with the pressure switch (either or both switches activate the brake lights). This switch adapts well;
Universal Street Rod Adjustable Brake Light Switch | eBay

Then because I'm incredibly anal and didn't like the idea of not knowing when my brake lights were not working, I took my third brake light mounted in the rear window apart an wired an LED into it. Biased the LED dim and faced it so I could see it in the rear view mirror. Now I know when my brake lights are working. I told you I was anal, LOL!

Next a very loud peizio buzzer wired to a micro switch on my parking brake handle. Lol..

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:LOL: I think in addition to all that you should also put in a fiber optic link to the dash, you never can have too much back up.

I like the old fiber optic that is mounted where you can see it in rear view mirror like on 70s Lincolns

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

:LOL: I think in addition to all that you should also put in a fiber optic link to the dash, you never can have too much back up.

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The fibre optics were a little distracting coming on with the brakes, so I bought an app for my smart phone that uses FaceTime to hack the phones of nearby cars for a realtime view of my car viewed on my windshield’s heads up display. Now I’m converting the in-tire pressure senders into temperature senders attached to the fibre optics so I know when the wheels get too hot because I left the parking brake on..

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Originally Posted by roadster32

Roger I don't think you can go far wrong with a OEM switch, most screw in so simple to mount, I've found the after market switches never seem to last long enough.

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Steve, when you say "OEM switch" what type are you referring to? Ford used the line pressure switch on a bunch of models back in the late '50's into the '60's, many mounted up high on the firewall near the master cylinder, but not always. I'm kind of leaning towards the one Ron Francis offers, sold by Summit Racing, pictured here:
http://www.ronfrancis.com/images/SW-42-Md.jpg

I agree with what 36 Sedan posted. In my opinion, this is the only way to go if you want fine control. I used this when I built my '32, and it works great.

Universal Street Rod Adjustable Brake Light Switch | eBay

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Originally Posted by rumrumm

I agree with what 36 Sedan posted. In my opinion, this is the only way to go if you want fine control. I used this when I built my '32, and it works great.

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Lynn, can you post a picture of your switch installed on the '32? I have an idea for a bracket welded to the frame, but that may not be necessary, and it's hard to argue with success.

I don't have a photo but I will try to take one tonight. It is mounted directly to the body next to where the brake pedal arm goes through the floor. The arm actuates the lever on the switch.

Their are after market universal motorcycle brake light switches that might work. About 3" long, activated by a pull plunger with a spring. Can mount and adj the switch by amount of spring tension. On my bikes I can set to very little pedal movement.
Motorcycle Brake Light Switches | J&P Cycles

DAMN!! Don't know if this will work. Search jp cycles and then brake light switches.

On a different note, if you got the pressure switch from Speedway it has been recalled as they where tracking down customers sending them a corrected switch, got one in the mail a few months back without any notice, I have the one Roger listed first on my '32 and haven't had any problems, on my 37 I went with the low pressure switch from Speedway (thus the recall notice) I used it because we had one on a '65 Ford pickup that lasted 30 years with not a problem, I figured my mechanical switch would go bad before that (of coarse then the Speedway recall!)

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Originally Posted by Matthyj

On a different note, if you got the pressure switch from Speedway it has been recalled as they where tracking down customers sending them a corrected switch, got one in the mail a few months back without any notice, I have the one Roger listed first on my '32 and haven't had any problems, on my 37 I went with the low pressure switch from Speedway (thus the recall notice) I used it because we had one on a '65 Ford pickup that lasted 30 years with not a problem, I figured my mechanical switch would go bad before that (of coarse then the Speedway recall!)

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Interesting on the recall. My first one came installed on the roller chassis from N&N, and I found an identical replacement at AutoZone that carries a lifetime warranty. That said, I may look into one with a lower actuation pressure.

After thinking about Lynn's installation description I went back to the original lever actuated switch that I got from Speedway, and it's a normally closed SPST switch (contact closed in shelf state, open with the lever) and I have room between the back side of the pedal arm and the floorboard. With a creative bend about an inch up from the bottom of the arm and a couple of holes next to the hole in the floorboard where the pedal arm penetrates it looks like it'll work. This switch doesn't have the adjustability of the one Lynn used, and if I find I need more fine tuning than I can do by tweaking the arm then I'll likely get one of those.

Thanks for the input, guys.

Roger, I could not get a photo as it was too close to get my camera to focus. But I have attached a sketch of how this particular brake switch is mounted. The unit bolts to the floor and the roller which is attached to the arm fits behind your brake lever.

Here is the sketch.

Thanks, Lynn. I mounted the switch up close to the end of the pedal and shortened the switch lever arm significantly to try to trip the switch with minimal pedal movement.