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the beauty of base/clear is that you can really screw the clear coat up and sand it out to a mirror finish. make sure the base is on even other wise you will have to repaint the left front fender, drivers door and drivers box side all over again :CRY: :mad: :mad: . sorry just had a flashback.:D while i'm on the flashback thing has anyone ever spent three months redoing a pickup just to total it out the next day by rolling it :CRY: :CRY: :CRY: . this thread is bringing back bad memories.
wow, this is an old thread:confused:Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
Old thread I know, but Is the BC/CC as easy to spot repair as laquer is? :confused:
Can it lift and check like laquer can if you lay the new paint on too heavy or spray over feathered edges?
Never tried BC/CC before. I think I might give it a go on the next job.
i was skimming through the posts too fast, i didnt even realize who i was responding to. i only did a spot repair once. you just have to scuff the clear, make sure you dont go down to the base coat or you will be repainting a bigger area. spray the base coat and blend it in on the edges by pulling the gun back for more of a mist and then really thin down the clear by doubling the reducer when you are painting over the clear you have scuffed. when it dries it should all buff out like new. i did it with Omni paint and i just followed a guys instructions and it seemed to work good.Quote:
Originally posted by pro70z28
Never tried BC/CC before. I think I might give it a go on the next job.
While we are back on the subject, it reminded me of a few questions I have.
How slick does the base coat have to be? Shooting acrilic enamel, I don't have a booth, I'm use to being able to color sand & buff to get rid of any slight orange peel I might have. If the base isn't slick it will show up in the clear won't it.
I'm not the greatest painter, but I've always been able to get good results after the sanding & buffing.
from my experience you will have to really try hard to get the base coat to orange peel. it goes on pretty dry. even if you can get it to orange peel you cant see it after the clear is on and scuffed and buffed. i found that with the first base coat it is best to give the whole vehicle a slight mist coat first a couple of times, it helps a ton for not getting fisheye. keep in mind i am a self taught painter for the most part so i am not an expert, but so far my results are good and 7 yrs after my first paint job its all still on and shiny:DQuote:
Originally posted by Primer
While we are back on the subject, it reminded me of a few questions I have.
How slick does the base coat have to be? Shooting acrilic enamel, I don't have a booth, I'm use to being able to color sand & buff to get rid of any slight orange peel I might have. If the base isn't slick it will show up in the clear won't it.
I'm not the greatest painter, but I've always been able to get good results after the sanding & buffing.
Thanks for the input guys, I'll give it a try next pint job I do
someone mentioned sherwinn-williams' line of paint. I've never used it before, but the president of my club has it on his truck, and I'd say its a very good testiment for sherwinn-williams!! here's a pic of it!
oh ya, you cant go wrong with base/clear. With proper prepping, it is very durable. since it''s it's a urethane, it will protect the base color from uv rays much better than arcrylic enamel or lacquer, and you can get a lot of depth out of a base/clear paint job. Just remember the outcome will only be as good as your prep work!! take your time, do it right, and you will be happy with the outcome. after the clear is laid down you can wet-sand it with 1500 2000 and 2500 grit and then buff, it should look something like glass then! Goodluck!!
Lost the picture of the Nova somehow , but here is another . I realize this is a old thread . I hope my Nova turns out as good as the Ranger. Beautiful paint job!!!
Nova.
Laquer still has the best glass finish no plastic look.