Has anyone apinted an engine block/cast iron heads using a two stage paint. what would you guys suggest if you want a show quality paint job.
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Has anyone apinted an engine block/cast iron heads using a two stage paint. what would you guys suggest if you want a show quality paint job.
I, as the beginner, would suggest a professional do the job for a show car quality paint job.
I painted my engine with Duplicolor engine paint and it looks really good. Duplicolor's seems to have better gloss than the other brands.
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8...66243806_l.jpg
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c8...0/DSCF0403.jpg
Urethane paints are very heat resistant, and I've had pretty good luck with them on the couple engines I've painted to match cars.
Ask your paint store what sealer or adhesion promotor would be best. Put the paint on in thin coats to avoid runs, but use a slow thinner so they have time to flow out glossy. Paint quickly to avoid dry rough spots.
Did you just up and do that, or did you do some research first? I am painting my block and engine components right now and it is turning into a pain in the arse.Quote:
Originally Posted by 76GMC1500
Well I'm trying to save mt funds for other parts i need so i'm doing on my own with the help of this website. I'm just painting the block and not sure if i will be spraying the car. It'll be a black cherry of some sort.
I've never heard of a duplicolor paint is that a single stage?
What if I use an etching primer/chroma base/ transtar clear do you think this will hold with the heat espacially around the exhaust ports.
It's the stuff you buy at the parts store. It comes in a rattle can. I used Pettit Rust-Lok primer on the block and heads applied with a brush. It is a urethane primers and hot rod paint is right about the heat resistance of urethane paints. For the manifold and valve covers I used Duplicolor's rattle can engine primer. The only trick is to spray it on thick. I did about 3 coats with 15-20 minutes between coats on a fairly warm day.
www.duplicolor.com
Alright I know exactly what your talking about now ,but I would like it to match my car color.
Rattle cans will never give you a showcar or even really good finish. They may lok good for a very short time, but then they will start fading, etc.
Years ago I read an article in Street Rodder Magazine (I think) entitled "How the Pros paint an engine" or something to that effect. The secret was that the Pros used Urethane primer then top coated it with regular enamel, just like you would paint your car with. And, you could color match your car.
So 15 years ago, I ground the engine in my '27 roadster very smooth, primed it with Duponts Uroprime system, and then top coated it with Dupont Centari, to which I added hardner. The shine and gloss was just like a car body, and when I tore the engine down just last fall, it was still looking pretty good. And this is after 7 years of almost daily driving in rain and hot sun.
Just recently we painted my Son's 455 Olds with a similar system, but he wanted an old timey look, so we only ground the block slightly. He wanted the pores to show. The engine came out really good, and will be a cinch to keep clean, as dirt and grease wipe right off.
Here is a picture of his engine. We used a touch up gun to shoot both engines.
Don
Here is a 15 year old picture of my '27 engine, right after painting it. Not a very good picture, but all I have.
Don
I painted mine with DupliColor's 500 degree heat paint in rattle cans. Used the primer first, then 3 coats of color and 2 coats of high temp clear. Holds up quite nicely, just gotta make sure u have the block super clean before spraying. I sprayed the whole thing down with lacqur thinner first.
Urethanes with hardener will hold their color and gloss far longer than air dry rattle cans of any kind. The metallic red engine is a good example of what you can expect.
Not sure, but I think it's a lacquer product, which would make it susceptible to gas damage.Quote:
Originally Posted by BEL52AIR
Urethanes with hardener will hold their color and gloss far longer than air dry rattle cans of any kind
Hotrodpaint is right. Here is another shot I found of Dan's transmission that was painted with urethane. It will look like this for years, and hold up through countless cleanings. You can do this in a home garage with normal spray equipment.
Don
Wow. Just what I wanted to see and hear. So was that a single stage ,the base coat and clear mixed together? I have the base coat and the clear along with an etching primer from dupon and not sure if its the right combo to spry the block with.
Either will work, but if it's a metallic, like this transmission, a two stage will look slightly better.
Will shoot it with a two stage and will inform you guys when its complete. Thanks
Old post, but have a question. Can a block be painted with metal flake, around an .004 then a clear coat over that?