Brookville primers

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Originally Posted by C9x

I'm curious as to why you're sanding the primer off?

Wouldn't it be easier to wash the primer off with lacquer thinner, then sand?

A messy job, but fairly easy from what one painter friend tells me.

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C9,
Several reasons -
I would probably still have to wear my supplied air hood as I am sensitized to many solvents and secondly, the crap that Brookville uses comes off extremely easily with my 17" llongboard and 80 grit paper. The primer varies a lot in thickness - my guess, .002 to .010. I did the flat area of one door to bare metal in about 5 minutes last night (doors are off and on a table). It leaves a nice finish for epoxy plus shows high and low areas - I have low areas, hinge side on both doors - the as-received hinges were bound up, flexing the door skins(bushings and new pins fixed that problem)

Thinner is fine for a single panel, but the mess plus the much added expense of even cheap lacquer thinner at ~$10/gallon, a bale of rags and the problem of disposing a hazardous waste and safety. I did try one trunk floor panel and it made a major mess with several rags and slop.

C9, I think you have an unassembled Brookville as well, based on earlier posts - check the primer out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by C9x

I'm curious as to why you're sanding the primer off?

Wouldn't it be easier to wash the primer off with lacquer thinner, then sand?

A messy job, but fairly easy from what one painter friend tells me.

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C9 - I responded to your post yesterday - and it didn't show up - then it appeared - sorry

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Originally Posted by Irelands child

C9 - I responded to your post yesterday - and it didn't show up - then it appeared - sorry

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Not a problem.

I cut out a 1 1/2" filler piece for the lower belt line at the extreme bottom of the body at the rear.
It was cut out for a parachute mount - the car was originally slated to be a dry lakes runner, but it's turning out so nice that I'm putting it on the street.

Anyway, I had some 100 grit wet/dry in my little Makita finish sander.
Took the primer - which was thin - right down to bare steel with no problem.

There are some areas that will need to be washed out with lacquer thinner, but sanding the open areas looks to be reasonably easy.

Areas that will require lacquer thinner are at the bottom of the trunk sill where it joins the belt line at the extreme bottom.
That and a clean brass brush ought to do it.

the pic above was in wanna-be lakes racer trim.

This pic shows how it looks today.

Doesn't look too much different, but there are a lot of small and time consuming projects finished on it.
Including a mid-90's ChryCo Soccer Mom two passenger van seat installed.

After the new set of fenders - actually OOS (Old Old Stock and used) get mounted and bobbed, the body comes off so I can build the frame mounted dual gas tanks and a few other things like plumbing for brakes and fuel.

Got my roll-around body dolly finished yesterday so I'm ready there.

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Originally Posted by C9x

the pic above was in wanna-be lakes racer trim.

This pic shows how it looks today.

dual gas tanks and a few other things like plumbing for brakes and fuel.

Got my roll-around body dolly finished yesterday so I'm ready there.

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C9 - looks good - especially on the 32 frame:D . As far as the dual frame gas tanks - where - inside the rails? Why not use the standard rear mount? Even if you bobbed the frame off, several outfits sell replacement end pieces - which I used to build a framework to put the tank in the back of my '31 chassis.

I've got my '31 on a dolly now and have it stripped of doors, trunk lid, cowl cover, dash and whatever else unbolts. The chassis is DONE !!!! I had the last piece, a drive shaft loop powder coated last week and installed it. This was an after thought as I pass my gas and fuel lines over it, next to the body and just figured a few hours and a few bucks was well worth the peace of mind for the added protection. I do have a short photo gallery in this forum but needs updating.

As far as stripping the doors - the left one, not too bad but will need a complete filler skim coat - jury's still out on the right, probably will need it as well.

I've attached a photo of my dash with a pile of sanding dust of the amount of primer that Brookville puts on a component. There are a total of 8 larger gauge and A/C outlet holes that actually reduce the surface area by quite a bit. And this is only the front side, the reverse will not be sanded to bare metal The holes range in size from 2 1/16 to 3 1/8. This is representative of all pieces that I've removed the primer.

Obviously, a thinner wash wont do it at $13/gallon yesterday for gun cleaning quality Nason.

If I had any idea on how long and how much effort this paint removal was going to be, I would have driven many miles for someone to media blast this car. I have since I started, talked to a couple of local guys that do some custom painting in the area - the closest reliable media blaster guys are well over 100 miles from me.:CRY:

The flat panels have come clean of primer fairly easily, but Brookville used so much primer that the raised details were almost obliterated with up to a 32nd in. at the sharp stamped in areas. It literally has to be dug out. I've used thinner, Rolocs, and a rotary wire brush with varying degress of sucess. This crap has to be removed or it will create ugly spots in the final paint job.

It looks like I'm trading red acrylic primer for red rust - but at least the light skim of rust comes off very easily(so far) with my DA. Another day or so, ready for epoxy primer (but I said that a couple of weeks ago) and hope the good weather holds.:eek:

Irelands child, like you I am currently building a 30 Brookville roadster coated with their crappy primer. Most likely I will check into having everything removed via media blasting. I have not checked to see if there are local blasters here in Albany, OR but that has to be much faster than what you are doing. My only concern is will I run into issues with some of that media blasting material getting into places hard to get out and then appear when my paint job is being done? So I do not know if faster easier media blasting is the ticket or removing the primer the hard way? Thanks,

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Originally Posted by stylingZ

My only concern is will I run into issues with some of that media blasting material getting into places hard to get out and then appear when my paint job is being done?

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Yes!! Not discounting the process as an option, but you can vacuum, air blow, vacuum, air blow, etc. etc. and may not get it all. Also, not all media (meaning plastic, soda or nut shells.................as opposed to sand) blasters are equal. I tried a new guy once on high recommendation and he ruined every flat panel (had a ton o' body work to do). Also, plastic media won't remove surface rust.

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Yes!! Not discounting the process as an option, but you can vacuum, air blow, vacuum, air blow, etc. etc. and may not get it all. recommendation and he ruined every flat panel (had a ton o' body work to do). Also, plastic media won't remove surface rust.

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[QUOTE=Irelands child, So I do not know if faster easier media blasting is the ticket or removing the primer the hard way? Thanks[QUOTE=]

Guys,
The closest responsible guy that I could find was about 150 miles one way and at that the info was only from a friend of a friend. There are a couple of local guys that will fire up their motorized blaster and hit it with Black Beauty (coal slag). One of them blasted my '57 Ford 9" in about 3 minutes - rough stuff. This is the reason that I chose to do it the hard way with a bale of 80 grit paper, a stack of DA discs and a box of Rolocs - both sandpaper and bristle plus my rotary wire brush to dig the crap out of the corners of the raised details. I bought a $15 Harbor Freight sand blaster and used it ONLY to clean the area between the firewall and the cowl side. I then sold the blaster at a swap meet last Saturday !!

This primer is so thick and very soft that it clogs the paper almost instantly though the long board 80 seemed to cut through it fairly well. The best paper that I found was Norton 3X. Any of the 3M stuff wasn't worth the premium price. As you can see, I am almost finished - one rear wheel well left after about 3 weeks of fairly steady work. I was uncomfortable using a grinder and with the potential for digging gouges in the very soft draw quality body steel.This would have caused even more work. I was also uncomfortable with using liquid paint stripper overall. Leave some in a body joint, goodby paint in that area. Lacquer thinner was suggested - I tried a small spot on the cowl in the weather stripping groove. What a mess!! Possibly a full dipped professional body strip would work, but again, none anywhere around here - the NY Capital District area

As far as sand and media drizzling out - a Bob says, dusting, vacuuming and air blasting will remove most of the material. A good overall complete epoxy primer should encapsulate almost everthing left.

Bob, I would hope that stylingZ's Brookville doesn't have any rust - there is just too much primer for anything to get through.

And yes media blasting, it can make a mess of panels - a friend had a Jag XK120 with the 50's slab sides that cost him a bundle to have fixed by a second body man.

Babbled enough - time to get sanding. It is amazing how much poor Brookville quality makes its' appearance when their primer is removed.:CRY:

Finally - everything is primered with Southern Polyurethane's epoxy except the tops of the 'glass fenders - they wont rust !!! That is real nice stuff and "only" $50/quart - I've used 2 qts so far and will use probably one more. Mix ratio is 1:1 epoxy to activator so I have used a gallon of mix so far

The low spots are now much easier to see and, unfortunately, so are the high spots. Since I can't get behind a single one of these to dolly back, the highs will just become more lows and be mudded in with Evercoat Rage starting tomorrow.:HMMM: