Sheet Metal Shrinking Disc

This months HOT Rod mag has a article on paint and sheet metal prep very good one at that . One thing there discussing is a shrinking disc . From reading the mag this disc looks like the tool for straightning metal without intense heat . Iv'e seen a home made one also on a site i think was called Metal Shapers and it did a fantastic job also . This disc supposedly helps with the non use of plastic . The pick and dolly is still used to bring metal to a close shape then the disc is ran over and picked again .

I have a area on one of my fenders that feels like your rubbing your hand over a dozen eggs . Previous owner was a little to heavy with his tool . I can bring it back alot with some work but i was really interested in this shrinking disc just to see how far it would go . Also to see if no filler would have to be used . They said in Hot Rod that all that would be needed was some good fill and sand .

Anyone here ever use it and what would you guys think of this tool .

Denny that one pic is closer and shows a little better detail. I think this thing will help alot of repairs.

ok, so the point of the shrinking disc is to heat the metal then cool it. Wouldn't a torch work as well? I presume the disc gives more control?

Fire im learning of it here but the control working a small area and less heat is what helps i think.

found this vid gives a little better idea but i sure would like a class or some more detailed .


http://www.wolfesmetalfabrication.com/sdiscdemo.html

you can get in to trouble with any way torch or the weel if you use a pick hammer you can get in to trouble evey time you hit the metal with the pick your moving out the metal then a dolly or hammer with more of a face to it .for very small dents picks are ok. i always put a flat spot on the end of my pick never to a point .hit big spot with a pick makes the metal thinner and more metal till you get a oilcan the best way is to use a slap file i metal finish many metal part the trick is not to over work the metal. you can over shrink to you .can get a low spot that you can not move up . i have done many bump jobs over many years and have not had to shrink very much metal more for my friend when he over works it. i used a somewhat dull sanding disc and cool with water on the new cars that work to

Pat i did mean hammer but the word pick meant just a small area . I know a pick would be allmost like driving it out with a screw driver and hammer . HHMM i do remember doing something like that 35 yrs ago LOL and i do remember it look bad then . I have never used a slapping file and would like a class . I came from body shops that weren't restoring but production repair shops who only looked at the bottom line ..

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Pat i did mean hammer but the word pick meant just a small area . I know a pick would be allmost like driving it out with a screw driver and hammer . HHMM i do remember doing something like that 35 yrs ago LOL and i do remember it look bad then . I have never used a slapping file and would like a class . I came from body shops that weren't restoring but production repair shops who only looked at the bottom line ..

---

i did work at production shops to but it was faster for me to metal finsh then use filler

Denny im getting a good picture of that in my head . I"ve seen some great sheet metal work since i've gotten deeper in this hobby . That is why i would like to try and save this metal with out filler just to do it i guess . Couple pics of damage on fender .

can not see it very good but i would work it with a slap file and a dolly if you lived around here i would show you some things:) that better yes a slap file and a dolly

Pat shops i managed was even before the stud gun which i think is another great tool . Seen many a hole with screw in it pulling dents and metal back to somewhat of a shape.


Denny you had me busting with the pointy things and yes previous went to town on it .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Pat shops i managed was even before the stud gun which i think is another great tool . Seen many a hole with screw in it pulling dents and metal back to somewhat of a shape.


Denny you had me busting with the pointy things and yes previous went to town on it .

---

well i was leading and bumping steel back in the mild 70s i have used washer machines with a hook

Denny and Pat i will be giving it a whirl here this summer. I hope to improve my metal work 10 fold and be able to just fill primer this fender worst thing on the car . I have a slight crease about 6 inches long in the quarter also and this metal is so thick .

My stud gun came with a shrinking tip, works great!!!! Couple weeks ago I got a shrinking dolly off the Matco truck, it works quite well, too.....

Go after it on the sheet metal working, Bobby!!!! It's still one of my favorite parts of a build!!!! There are also some great books that give some very good instuctions and tips... Any of the ones that Ron Fournier wrote are great!!!!!

Dave plan on learning all i can before i work it . I knew here would be the best place first since there are some great auto guys here with alot of knowledge . Been watching the T close also you should make some vids .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Dave plan on learning all i can before i work it . I knew here would be the best place first since there are some great auto guys here with alot of knowledge . Been watching the T close also you should make some vids .

---

As slow as I move now-adays, they'd be pretty boring videos!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Dave if its a video of any car work i dont think anyone here would say its boring . We all enjoy something of a tech class .





Denny i do know one thing LOL it might not be as bad as it is now . But if i do it and make it worse it will get the filler as a last resort . But i do see alot of technics from every where so i think a good mixture of them may be the technic i need too.

you can sand the fender with a block with the paint thats on it now with 80 grit this will show the hi s use a heel dolly but i all ways most of the time use a rail road dolly was better to hang on to and better to bump up lows with . use a finsh hammer and work the hi s down then sand some this will help you see whats going on but with so much metal pick up i would go over the hole thing with a slap file clean the back side of the fender first. that fender is not hit bad at all. i did one on a 36 ford that a friend shot thru the side of his brick garage that look like a mud flap.i work it to metal no filler only were some $hit work was done around the lip

there was ebay sellers selling the disc a while back still have stuff set aside to make on but not a priority 1 yet. Ed

I haven't spent this much time really looking at the fender . I did the sand to bring out the high spots Pat . This fender does look like it went inverted for a bit and was hammered out . After the sand it looks a little better . Talking with you guys i can picture in my mind what the outcome could be with this method for metal work . I will have to get a slapper file to start that process and go from there . I do the know initial work will be slow since i dont have you the masters standing there . I am glad though i can come here and get some guidence in what im going to try .

Hey and if it dont work then i guess the filler will have to be . I do know it is a necessary part of auto repair just thought i'd give this a try with this oppurtunity and metal thickness.

A couple better pics showing fender.

You know that original ole paint is still reflecting on the quarter pretty darn good .

one good thing is that old steel works out good i done many. what will take some time is the bead around the lip of the fender i have had to get in back of the fender and unroller the lip move the wire out of the way and use a hammer or a heel dolly the thin face and work it out to shape then roll the fender metal back over the wire that runs under the inside of the bead lip

I used to be real shy about fillers, but the new ones are so much better I don't mind using them at all! The old metal is harder to work, but does give better results! The new cars, man I don't know if it's just that thin, weak, or just so full of impurities but it's really a booger to work!!!! Think it really started going downhill in the early 70's, maybe it's something to do with all the recycled stuff in it?????

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I used to be real shy about fillers, but the new ones are so much better I don't mind using them at all! The old metal is harder to work, but does give better results! The new cars, man I don't know if it's just that thin, weak, or just so full of impurities but it's really a booger to work!!!! Think it really started going downhill in the early 70's, maybe it's something to do with all the recycled stuff in it?????

---

hey you should of been at the shop today had a call to weld a new alum caddy hood with a bullet hole in the middle of the hood tig welded it and shirk it back down turn out way better then i every would of guess on filler i still like to work my metal is good as i can get it :D

Pat the bead doesn't look fun . I've seen so many people looking for fenders and thats the big question is if the bead is straight. I've been trying to figure out something like making a stamping die to help there. I can work on it at work and have some help there also from machine shop and tool & die.


Dave i know working at a stamping plant for Ford i see the new sheet metal coming in . It ranges from .031 to .034 and that is thin compared to the older cars. This new stuff is oil can city alot of times . I don't regret this being my hobby instead of for a living . My hat goes off to all the bodymen that still work this new stuff. I remember in the 60's my brother in law mudding a whole quarter to straighten it . My time in the 80's in the management i did get insurance to buy new parts not like then .


Denny looks like a glass of champaign bubbling for sure . There is alot of little ones .

no need for any die to form just get in the back and un roll it like i said use your eye and a straight edge and some rattle can primer for a guide coat and block sand it . this will help you see your lines if not rework the metal were you want it

AAHH LOL good but after my 3 beers they did look like they were popping still LOL.

there bad metal every where .some of the new steel you can not tig weld with steel filler rod:mad:

Pat the wire will stop it from coming back and its better to remove it from the area your going to work .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Pat the wire will stop it from coming back and its better to remove it from the area your going to work .

---

i have cut it out and hammer it flat then reweld it back in it need to be there when done or some heat it not that hard to work with just move it out the way if that takes cutting it out then do that:3dSMILE:

Denny i think i've seen what your talking about . That would be a great thing on a curve it would spread out the hammer blows really even. Another tool i will have to look for at the store.

Pat i was saying will it make working the bead easier by removing the wire. Metal is thick so i know i won't split it there doing it that way .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by bluestang67

Pat i was saying will it make working the bead easier by removing the wire. Metal is thick so i know i won't split it there doing it that way .

---

well do what you want::)but you would be wrong in thinking this way . i would move the wire out of the way and when done put it back in .in have done them this way .i had had to put a backer were the lip is all crack up from shaking . you want some dollys that fit the form of the fender if not i have re work dollys for the job. a bag is good for free forming steel or alum not to good for something that need to be work back to a all ready a ruff form. so from this point it a slap file followed by a dolly and a big face finsh hammer snapon sell a nice one has a shink face on the other side

Pat i mean move wire . Peel off roll and move wire to work bead . I'm asking this will help in the reshaping . Is the wire flexable enough that it will stay in place when i reroll lip or will i have to work wire also .

you can heat the wire and bend it strait hammer on it with a dolly when re working the fender.on the bead just try not to hit it so hard to flatten the bead out side of the fender when re woking the bead. when the fender is strait lay the wire back were it was . if not to humpy it should be ok. if you have to tack it in spots to keep it from moving that way you do not have to worry about wire to much