Bare metal spots after blocking-What next?

Hi all

I'm block sanding the bed of my '51 International L110 and have sanded through primer to bare metal in a few spots. I'm not sure what type of primer I should use from this point

So far, I've got Nason 491 Etching Primer over bare metal on the bottom. Over this I have Nason 421-2k Primer and some epoxy glazing filler.

Everything is smooth and straight now, but what comes next? Can I use sealer over both the 2K and metal spots and move on, or should I hit it with something else first?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Are you ready to paint at this point? If you are, that is one of the uses for sealer is to seal out the primer/paint/metal. Sealer also wet sands nice for a great paintable surface if you want to store it that way and paint later.

If you've got bare metal after blocking, its still not flat. Blast a couple more coats of high build primer and reblock. If you are any good with a hammer and dolly, drop the high spots back abit before repriming. If not, build the whole surface up good and reblock everythig to get it flat. IMO you should never leave anything bare and rely on sealer... It may sound like more work, but at this point, if you paint it, you'll more than likely see the high spots, and that'll ruin all you've done so far!:eek: Take the time to make it slick, you'll be so much happier in the end.:) Donny

yep them spots are hi they need to be hammer down and re primed if you cut thru the edge or a body line i have many time s used ech primer then sand lightly sand before i seal the hole body down the PPG dp sealers will hold that down but from the looks of the primer you have some coats that you have cut thru more then one coat so them spots are very hi .before you put more primer on them spots tap them down then guild coat then tap any spots before any more primer is put down

Arrgh - I know you guys are right, I'm just being lazy. I can't feel the high spots with my fingers, so I was thinking It's good to go. I'll let another guide coat show me what's really happening here. I think I'm close, so hopefully another batch of 2k will be good.

Thanks

[QUOTE=Chad1376]Arrgh - I know you guys are right, I'm just being lazy. I can't feel the high spots with my fingers, so I was thinking It's good to go. I'll let another guide coat show me what's really happening here. I think I'm close, so hopefully another batch of 2k will be good.[QUOTE] you have the guide coat now the primer . they are hi just tap them down then guide coat to check there down so your not wasting your primer .when you tap then down make sure the hammer face is very smooth i lock the D.A sander hub and work over the hammer face with 320 or abit more like 220 so you are marking up the steel

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to give the high spots a little "bump" as suggested. I'm not too skilled with beating on metal, and sometimes make things worse for my efforts. Ya only learn by doing though.

I plan on "rhino-lining" the inside of the bed, so if I turn these "outies" into "innies", it's no big deal.

I think the bare metal around the outside edge of the panel stamping is because the middle of the panel has a slight inward dish. I'm not to worried if that dish remains, as long as the paint is ultimately smooth and ripple free.

I'll be back with lots of questions about my fenders. They are a mess, with old hammer marks from a previous repair, my own hammer marks from gross re-shaping of dents and lots of general unsmoothness. I'll need to get some advise on shrinking and other more sophisticated metal working.

Thanks again for the help.

Dont use your fingers to feel the spots use your hand held flat and rub it back and forth across the spot you are working that way you will feel the imperfections.(be sure there are no sharp edges they cut) Good luck with your project.Francis