I like the stuff just wanted some feed back on how its holding up being used on the frame? Thanks
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I like the stuff just wanted some feed back on how its holding up being used on the frame? Thanks
I used it on my bush bumpers for my Jeep TJ where they're exposed to a lot of abuse and gravel being shot up on the roads. It does fade if you just use the regular black stuff but it is strong as heck. The day after I painted it I had to use a steel hammer to get the front bumper lined up on the mounts and it didn't even scuff it. I've had it for about a year and a half.
I used it on new metal that was ground clean and I thinned it with acetone, just like they say not to but it was all I had and didn't really care. I can snap a picture of it later.
I also used it on the rusty parts of my car that I couldn't get at and then covered it with a tie-coat primer they have so you can paint or epoxy prime over it otherwise it won't stick. I haven't got my car done yet so I can't tell you how it would hold up.
From all the reading I did about it, it seems most of the body guys suggested Zero Rust instead. I've never used it though.
The pictures are the tie coat then epoxy.
Sean
I have a buddy that swears by it. He uses it on every part of his frames and inner boddy panels.
Zero rust is a NO NO for exposed parts. Sun breaks it down.
I used it as a primer coat, then was unable to finish the job.
( didn't get the top coat on ) Now I have a very rusty truck.
Used it on my rusty sixty year old frame and it layed downlike butter. I had to cut the old motor mounts off and ir held up great to the heat of the mig welder and the heat generated by the 4 inch grinder. Great stuff. I'm mixing it with ceramic beads to coat the inside fire wall, head liner space and floors, much cheaper than lizard skin, but apparently just as good!
Here is picture as I was laying it on the frame, noticed the areas not covered versus covered.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/frame002.jpg Also I did the whole front end with a tester can that you can purchase as a kit from Por. It comes with a great degreaser paint brushes etc.. A pint will do a whole frame. If you want to top coat it, take Dave S.( I think it was you Dave) advice from a previous thread and do it while it is slightly tacky, or you'll need to ruff it up a bit.
We used it on our frame and it has worked out great so far! But then again it has never left the garage :)
I have used it on floor boards of my K5 and it worked great!
how would you coat the inside of a convertable frame
drill holes underneath in hard to access areas, squirt cavity wax in with one of these guns then put grommets or bungs back in the drilled holes
cavity wax? i have never heard of that before. do you mean undercoat.Quote:
Originally Posted by chopped66impala
POR15 is great. i've used it hundreds of times. Best way to handle rust is to sand it off or blast it off but thats not always an option. POR15 I have used on frames, undersides, inside of vehicles, etc and the frames hold up great. I've used it on customers cars and years later it still looks great and no rust problems. Key is that a little goes a long ways so apply it thin and only apply 2 or 3 coats. If applied thick it will peel when dry. Dont try to cover it completely with one coat.
Very true on the amount of coats. 2-3 max should be fine.
We use it all the time..
We just cleaned off dirt and road grime with laquer thinner and a wire brush let it dry. Then POR 15 right over the rust.
Faded some but hard as a rock.
Put it on the snow plow blade too!!
It will adhere even better with more rust vs. less. The only place it peeled off my truck was the steering arm which was soaked in oil. Por also sells a cleaner that you can use as a prewash. It is called Caliper cleaner, but works on any metal that is gunked up!
Also when you preclean the metal, do not put it on as soon as it APPEARS to be dry, wait an hour or more. Just like a pre clean for painting, in 2 minutes it will evaporate and appear to look dry but it needs more time...