Can anyone briefly explain the steps in painting a vehicle
Thanks
ChevyDave
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Can anyone briefly explain the steps in painting a vehicle
Thanks
ChevyDave
There are so many steps and details, that I would recommend you look for a book or video detailing the process. It's a lot easier to comprehend if you actually see someone doing it, and easier to accomplish if you have a well-organized checklist.
If this is you first job, I would recommend using a light non-metallic color. It will not show imprefections as badly.
Do not attempt a candy color, or very dark color until you have some experience. They can be difficult and frustrating, even for the pros.
Don't believe that you simply pour the paint in a gun, spray it on, and it looks like a show car! Most beginners will paint one car, and when they find out how much work is involved, they never do another one. Be sure you are a guy with patience, and are not afraid of getting dirty and sweaty.
If you like doing things yourself, and like a challenge, this could be for you. Only one way to find out!
Sorry if I make it sound difficult, but I have custom painted hundreds of projects, and I am still learning something new every day.
Man I have already started on this thing and I found out its no walk in the park. But it the fun in it figureing out new things and the saticfaction of doing it yourself. I started the body work with just filling in the old molding holes in with bondo and filling in some of the dings and I have a first coat of primer on and now I need to block it but after I block it and finish prep work do I paint my color on it and then a clear coat or what. I am going with a pearl white outside and a gray inside. Thats another question where do I stop my exterear color and start my interear.
Thanks ChevyDave
I'm with HRP on getting a book or two and doing some studying.... In the meantime, a good way to start would be to knock the bondo out of the moulding holes and first weld the holes shut!!!!! That filler is going to stay for long....Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyDave
You didn't say what you have for tools so I'd assume since this is your first, not much.... You'll need a couple of good body hammers and dollies.... By some good stuff the first time and avoid the cheap junk that will usually only create more work then they cure.... Martin is a good name too look at, expensive but great quality and they'll last forever.....
Just curious, what did you do about the original paint on the car????
I have completely stripped the truck to the metal. On welding the holes shut I have herd that it is easy to worp the metal when welding and thats why I have decided on useing bondo on the holes I can weld but it isnt great and also the whole problem of haveing a mig welder I have a regular stick welder but I am sure that isnt going to work very well. Just curiouse but if the truck doesnt have any big sents do I still need body hammers. This truck is down to a few holes from paneling a few very small dings and I need to shave the door handles and thats it.
Well, I guess it depends on whether you want to just do it....or if you want to do it right..... How about borrowing a mig from a friend, or have someone weld them for you..... As for the dents, it's best to use as little filler as possible, even something as small as a door ding can be made a lot smaller with a good hammer and dolly....
I would invest in a cheap mig even from HF. Practice on light tacks . You could do this with a stick and some small rod with a copper backer just tacking a few spots and letting it cool then coming back to it . Even at the age of 52 i am learning a lot myself also found out you never quit learning more .
Body work do a search on line lots of great info sites showing the basics to some light repairs . As Dave said body plastic is best when done in a repair real thin .
If you fill them with bondo....they WILL be back!
I found and bought a stick when I first got my Nash. Before starting on the car, I got some tips from an old friend and did ok welding thick material. But when I got to sheetmetal, I tended to blow holes in everything. So I sold it and bought a mig welder and it is a world of difference. It is really easy to use and make a decent weld without warping the sheetmetal. I just finished making a hood scoop for my Spirit out of sheetmetal and did not warp anything. There is no way that would have happened with the stick welder. As far as the holes go, if you do not weld them shut, which I have already done on my Nash, then they will be back because the bondo will work its way loose and fall out. To me, it will save you a lot of time and headaches in the future if you take the time to fill them right now.
And if you think a MIG does a nice job, better not ever try a TIG to do sheetmetal work with, you're gonna end up spending more money!!!!!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by pastor bubba
Go to your hardware store and buy about 6" of 3/4" copper tubing. Smash it flat and use it as a back-up for the hole your filling, the weld will not stick to the copper.. Hold the mig at 45 degrees to the hole and fill the hole. Just don't get too much heat in the panel, so move around and cool it down. This method will allow you do do a good job and it's easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by pastor bubba
Cool thanks for all the info and welcome anymore comments.
ChevyDave
John, thanks for the tip on the copper tubing. I had a piece laying around and flattened the ends and it worked great for filling in the holes.