Can someone tell me what a good rust converter is for putting on bare metal before priming? thanks
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Can someone tell me what a good rust converter is for putting on bare metal before priming? thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoorxtreme1
Do not believe the hype about rust converters as there are None, Zip, Zero, Nada that work over the long haul (that is more then a few days). POR15 - you can pull that off in strips. Rustoleum - well it used to be pretty good on lawn furniture until the eco nuts took the good stuff out. You paint over rust - guess what, you still have ---- rust and it never sleeps and is always at work as long as there is any oxygen there - and since rust is ferrous oxide......:CRY: If you want to stop the rust, you need to blast, sand, scrape or whatever works to white metal, prime with a good name primer, and I prefer epoxy then as soon as possible, paint as every primer but the epoxy allows oxygen though, then you are right back where you started.
There will be others here that will say that I'm wrong, but I suggest then that you go to a pro paint site
What about an inhibitor like OSPHO? Does that work at all?
I have had pretty good luck with a product called rust mort...I think USC makes it but I don't remember and I'm no where near my shop right now...Most of that stuff is junk ,as earlier stated..
This topic seems to come up every year at least once, so you could do a search and read lots of responses from the past.
In the short run products like Rust Mort, Naval Jelly, and hosts of others, including etch primer, contain phosphoic acid. The acid attacks the rust and converts it to iron phosphate. Very effective for arresting rust. The frame pictured below was scuffed to knock off any loose rust particles then washed down with phosphoric acid solution (I bought a gallon of it 20 years ago and make my own solution with water, still have a good part of the bottle). Though the frame looks "clean" there probably is some microscopic rust formed(ing), so it will get washed down again before priming. This is in my garage near Seattle, so it's not like I have dry air to help keep it from forming rust. Hand prints will accelerate the rate of corrosion, even when treated.
Here's a link to one thread you'd find in a search"\: http://clubhotrod.com/forums/showthr...t=rust+removal
Edit: I should go without saying, but then again.............whenever handling acid you should make sure you use chemical resistant gloves, eye protection, and be in a well ventilated area. Keep a box of baking soda handy too to neutralize any spillage.
Plasma cutter and a tig unit:)
On the body and sheet metal, my local auto paint store recommended Mar-hyde one step, it comes in a spray can or bottle that you can paint on, it will convert any trace rust to black primer. On the frame Por 15 is bullet proof as long as you follow their prep instructions to the letter. If there is any oil, dirt or grease it will peel off, but on just rusted metal it forms a hard smooth paint layer. It is also susceptable to uv light, so if your using it in an exposed area to the sun, it needs a paint top coat. As to what Bob said, I agree. The best way to go is to bare metal, treat with a converter and quickly prime and seal. Small pockets of rust are like beggers, once they get a hold of you they don't go away!:D