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Hi I`am at my wits end it does not seem to matter how I shoot this paint I still get striping running my paint gun at about 35 psi tried changing how close to the panel i am shooting it at using 8-1-1 paint,reducer,hardener nothing seems to help!! thanks Bill
Check your spray pattern to make sure it is a full fan all the way across, and also alternate the direction of each coat. Spray horizontally one coat and then vertically the next coat. Also, overlap each coat about half way so you are getting a good wet pass each time and not leaving dry areas in between each pass.
One of our good painters on here may have better info, but that is what I would look at.
Don
Thanks any info helps, need all the help that I can get!
You might find some usefull reading here !!:D
http://www.autobody101.com/articles/
What type of gun are you using? If it's an old style siphon feed gun, 35 psi is probably too low. I run my gravity feed guns at 35-40 psi and old siphon feed guns at 45 - 55 or higher, depending on the reduction of the paint. HVLP guns can go lower...:whacked:
Don's advice above is good. Each pass of the gun should overlap the previous pass by approximately 50%. If the paint goes on looking dry or gritty, it will dry that way (dull). If it goes on too wet it may run. What type of paint are you using? Is this alkyd enamel, acrylic enamel, acrylic urethane, polyurethane, epoxy, or lacquer? Is it basecoat/ clearcoat or single stage?:confused: Each type of paint has different spray characteristics. Rule of thumb: the faster a paint flashes (dries), the heavier you can lay it on...;)
using hvlp gun.
thanks
What sort of paint is that ??? 8-1-1 is an unusual mixing ratio ???
Maybe different over there but in england mixing ratio's are usually 2-1 + 10% thinner, Some primers here are 5-1 + 10%
Quote:
Originally Posted by ranchero68/69
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadster32
Blitz Black is an enamel flat or satin paint originally designed for painting tractors and sold by John Deere. The mixing ratio probably refers to "8 parts John Deere paint : 1 part REN3001 hardener : 1 part John Deere thinner."
The reason for the striping other than a bit too much pressure for a quality HVLP (28-32psi tops) is that your reducer is too fast for the temperature and humidity levels you are spraying in. Provided you are giving the usual 50% overlap and keeping your gun a consistent distance away from the panels you are shooting, the "suede black" you are shooting is starting to flash before it gets on the panel, you need to use a slower reducer so that 100% of what is coming out of the gun remains wet as it hits the panels........Also keep in mind that black Suede is not the easiest to spray, any time you use a flattening agent, or are shooting a flattened mix you need to overlap at least 50% to each pass. If you are unsure what I am talking about, make your first pass on a panel, your next pass in the opposite direction on the same panel should be spray 50% of what you just sprayed, and 50% of the virgin panel you are attempting to paint.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranchero68/69
Bill S.
a single spray pass should cover about 6 inches and be done at about 12 inches from the surface .. if `i ammember correctly
I am trying to find a different reducer to use with this enamel every body only seems to handle stuff like acrylic enamel, not OLD school stuff anymore as I think the reducer is part of the problem. Also will try dropping the pressure down on the gun a bit.
Thanks for all the ideas so far!!
And I am not sure what the current temps are in Winnepeg, but if it is like the rest of us, right now is unusually hot. Most companies make a slow, medium, and fast reducer for varying temps. You should use a slow in Summer.
Don
Right now 88 above these guy`s only make one reducer for this paint, if you want a different reducer you have to source it from some where else.
Who's paint are you using? At 88 degrees you need to use a hot reducer, one that slows down the evaporation and drying time of the paint product you are spraying.Forget about the difference in enamel vs acrylic enamel as the newer style enamels are polyurethane based and work well when mixed properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by ranchero68/69
Bill S.
John Deere Blitz Black manufactured by Valspar
If it's manufactured for John Deere by Valspar it is most likely an alkyd enamel (It may say on the can somewhere). If it is typical alkyd enamel and you try to use acrylic enamel reducer or polyurethane reducer, the results will be sub-standard. Aside from getting a finish quality that is not what you want (orange peel, dry spots, etc.), the paint may have a tendency to chip, scratch, and/ or peel easily.:( If you go to an automotive paint store and ask, they should be able to supply you with a compatible reducer for the temperature you are spraying in.;)
I'm not sure if it's still available, but R-M used to make some stuff called Star-Rock. It was a catalyst hardener made especially for alkyd enamel; it improved the durability and life of the enamel. Good stuff.:3dSMILE:
I painted this with J/D Blitz Black using there reducer and hardner your better off using as low a presure as you can as was said earlier the problem is the paint is drying before it gets to the car. If it is already rough finish you will have to sand it down or your next coat will look the same.
Nice car.:3dSMILE: That thing would be killer with a straight axle under the front - gasser style...:cool:
no,no it looks great just the way it is.
Already sanded down waiting to decide which is the best way to tackle my problem. This is starting to drive me nuts.
cffisher sweet panel!!