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i'm getting ready to paint my engine block but i'm not sure what kind of paint to use? i paint sikkens base clear at work but i'm not sure that will hold up against the heat? any suggestions? the only thing i've found where i live so far is spray bomb duplicolor?
I've used the spraybomb Duplicolor and it's always worked well. Not as fancy.. But, it works ok.
I've used single stage and BC/CC on lots of engines and transmissions. Big thing on getting it to stick is like painting anything else, the parts must be super clean and shot with a epoxy primer first. If you want to get fancy, get out the die grinder, the 5" grinder, and the 5" sander and do some de-burring and casting flash removal--really enhances the final look. Seems to stay on just as well or better then the engine paint in a rattle can....
I've painted a bunch, like Dave has, with epoxy primer and catalyzed enamel for the top coat. It is far superior to any spray can engine enamel and lasts for years and years. Engines only get up to the 180+ temp range, which isn't all that hot, so it doesn't burn off at all. It is the only way I will ever paint any engines I do in the future too. The key is the epoxy primer.
Don
Hey there Don, almost missed the new avatar!
As for block paint I've had good luck with rattle can engine paint from napa. Some of the guys on here have done some super high end paint jobs, that make them really stand out, but the old rattle can looks good too if you take your time!
Epoxy primer is the key to sucess as the others have mentioned.
Heres the sequence you use
Clean the block completely, apply 2 coats of epoxy primer, allow this to flash off for 1 hour, then overcoat with your 2K topcoat or base & clear.
I used DuPont Variprime and Centari single stage black for my '31s engine. If I was to do it again, would use epoxy instead of the Variprime plus the single stage paint. Regardless of that, it is holding up well. Luckily I started with a factory fresh, new engine, but I still did a thorough cleaning, ground the flash, washed it with Tide, then again with wax and grease remover. That old saw that granny used to say - "Cleanliness is next to godliness" holds true here
We are going to be painting my Son Dan's Olds engine this weekend using Dupont epoxy primer and gold Imron for the topcoat. I'll try to post some pictures of the process when we are done in case it might help someone else out.
Don
at one time i did test strips when i was painting planes . made up strips to see the primers that did hang on the best with the lest prep not that we were lazy but to see what one had the best bite with most of the makers of etch primers variprime is one of the best used gallons of the stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by IC2
the cast of the block makes the paint hang on i have been painting engines with two part paints for 28 years it will not fall off or burn off less is a head with ports off the head like a pontiac not lot of prep needs to be done but i ways did long as the parts are clean clean clean the paint will stick would not clear the engine but thats up to you i used the delstar . dau 75 clear for alum intake s . concept paint to. for a time i was on the military kick and shot the hole engine alum intake and all with DP 90
thanks for the advise everyone.
will painting aluminum heads cause a heating problem? i know a lot of people would rather have the aluminum look but i have been debating painting mine to match and i just heard that this might cause problems? anybody have any imput on this??? i was getting ready to paint this saturday now i'm not sure.
No reason that painting aluminum heads will cause overheating. These heads are like any other (iron) in that they transfer heat through the coolant - though like Pat said, the paint will probably discolor and possibly fail near the exhaust.
Any thoughts on
" Plasti-Coat " paint?
It's been a few years since I've seen it on the shelves.
Many years ago a friend painted his engine with it. Looked great.
However, I have not seen it since---- I moved away & he has sold the car.
Wondering if it holds up.........
I really like a lighter color on the block. Easier to identify possible leaks later if kept clean. The last two I painted just as I would a car only without all that final sanding. Like they said, it must be clean. I then shot a coat of epoxy treating it as a sealer and your chice of top coat. I just asked my paint supplier if he had any misc stuff he was going to throw away. Had a quart of something I could live with after adding more tint. Oh, and that stuff sticks like glue! :LOL:
David
Never thought much of it myselfQuote:
Originally Posted by t-top havoc
.
I completely understand the " cleanliness " aspect.
I have always been the guy who volunteers to clean parts.
My belief is if I can get it like new, then there will be less smears & smudges of grease, oil, & grime.
Unfortunately, I don't have an air compressor, paint guns, etc.
So I am at the mercy of the rattle can mayhem!! Lol!!
I like the " battle ship grey " tones that I've seen on alot of race motors, but I also like the in your face Chevy orange llike on Bigblock Pat has for sale, and the Pontiac blue that has a bit of sheen & metallic. { NOT the bluegrey stuff }