Broken Water Pump Bolt

Hi guys:
Last night I was installing a new water pump on my 455 and when I got to the last bolt, a longer one that goes into the block, I guess I went snap happy and broke the bolt.
I bought all new #8 bolts, stainless as I didn't want them to ever rust. I thought it was like impossible to break these bolts????
Anyway, I wish someone would have told me to use some anti sieze on the bolts FIRST:CRY:
Anyway, I removed the waterpump again, and removed the balancer and the timing cover. The bolt is brokne in the block below flush. Does anyone know the best way to remove this bolt piece???:confused:
Appreciate your thoughts. HELP!!!!!!!!

Chris

Yup, any time you use stainless bolts, or put any bolt in aluminum you should use anti-sieze, and as Richard says, stainless bolts aren't strong enough for critical use.

Of course, that's all old news now. However, here's another piece of info. Stainless bolts can be really, really difficult to drill - depending on the type of stainless. If you start drilling and aren't making much progress, stop and get a carbide bit. Certain types of stainless will eat drill bits for lunch.

If the bolt broke off because it hit bottom and was overtorequed, it's going to be much more difficult to extract than one that was just overtorqued.

Finally, there are EZ out extractors if you happen to break one of those.

Take your time and be careful . . .

Richard,

Did you forget the link?

when i repalced the exaust manifold gsks in my 97 F-150 i had 4 broke off stainless bolts in the head. i welded nuts on the end and they all came out pretty good. mabey i just got lucky.

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Originally posted by 53 Chevy5
when i repalced the exaust manifold gsks in my 97 F-150 i had 4 broke off stainless bolts in the head. i welded nuts on the end and they all came out pretty good. mabey i just got lucky.

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thats the trick to weld a nut or washer to the left over bolt and screw it out. I had two break on my p/s pump mount the heat also aids in the release. Ed ke6bnl I had herd of the proceedure and when I trieded it I wish I was younger and used it all the years I have delt with this problem Ed k

everybody has has a meg welder now. makes a dif.**) **)

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Originally posted by 53 Chevy5
when i repalced the exaust manifold gsks in my 97 F-150 i had 4 broke off stainless bolts in the head. i welded nuts on the end and they all came out pretty good. mabey i just got lucky.

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The problem here is that the bolt broke off below flush with the block. There's nothing to weld to.

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Originally posted by Henry Rifle
The problem here is that the bolt broke off below flush with the block. There's nothing to weld to.

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a lot of muffler shops now has a tip you put on your meg gun tip that has a rod that goes down to the broken off bolt and weld to it without welding the block, then you can weild a nut to that ext. :cool:

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Originally posted by Streets
Remedy: Take the block to any machine shop that has a "Tap burner".. It's similar to an arc welder and it burns the broken "Tap/Bolt" out pf any material and never messes up the threads IF done correctly.. "Mistakes only cost money the 1st time!!"

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.streets, the average muffler shop ring off manifold bolts everyday that's a lot of pulling motors to get bolts out. go broke doing it that way. there are ways to get most of them out in the car :D

There is no such thing as grade 8 stainless. The stainless bolts you buy at the hardware store are 304 stainless and the equivalent of a grade 2 steel bolt in terms of strength. There are stronger alloys like 316 which could replace a gade 5 and maybe even a grade 8, but I prefer grade 8 for all engine purposes. Stainless also expands an contracts a lot with temperature variations which could cause the bolt to come loose. Another reason to stay away from stainless on engine parts. Grade 8 has very good corrosion resistance and I use it on everything engine and exhaust related.

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Originally posted by Streets
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Thats why I said what I said in RED Mike...

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o ya i agree with that. **)