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I learned the HARD WAY about not putting anti-sieze on the bolt threads on the water pump. SNAPPED ONE:CRY:
While putting some new parts on this engine (455), can anyone tell me with some authority whish bolts should get:
1) Lock tite
2) Anti Sieze
3) Nothing....
Thanks alot for your help.
Chris
Quote:
Originally posted by Toy4chris
I learned the HARD WAY about not putting anti-sieze on the bolt threads on the water pump. SNAPPED ONE:CRY:
While putting some new parts on this engine (455), can anyone tell me with some authority whish bolts should get:
1) Lock tite
2) Anti Sieze
3) Nothing....
Thanks alot for your help.
Chris
Toy4chris if you snapped the bolt off putting it back in then you simply over tighten it. anti sieze would have helped you get it out, not in. grease is as good as any anti sieze for alum. that you can use and any kind of good anti sieze on steel. use the lock tight on flywheel bolts or anything thats turning or thats flexing. :HMMM:
These aren't perfect, and there are some exceptions, but you need to consider the following:
1) Loctite: Any steel bolt that does not have a lock washer AND that you don't want to come loose. Examples: Flywheel bolts, rocker arm studs. Warning, many internal engine bolts (main caps, rods, head bolts., etc) do NOT get loctite
2) Anti Sieze: Any stainless steel bolt. Any bolt threaded into an aluminum or stainless steel part
3) Nothing: Generally any bolt with a lock washer or lock nut.
You forgot . . .
4) Oil: Any bolt that must be torqued exactly - usually items like head bolts, rod bolts, main cap bolts.
5) Thread sealant: Most bolts that protrude into a water jacket - like head bolts. Be careful with aluminum blocks.
Two final rules:
a) If you don't know, find out. Don't guess.
b) Bolts SHOULD NOT be tightened as far as they WILL GO. They MUST BE tightened as far as they NEED TO GO. Most automotive fasteners have a recommended torque (even water pump bolts). If you don't know it, look it up. If you don't have a torque wrench, you need to get one.