I appreciate the help. those pics are a great help. It gives me so much more direction than that stuipd Haynes wiring diagram...
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I appreciate the help. those pics are a great help. It gives me so much more direction than that stuipd Haynes wiring diagram...
I figured that much, I'm keeping it handy just incase it desides to change on me... lol... It's been pretty unpredictible lately. I hope it will start acting up so I can test it. I ahve to work late tonight so It will have to wait till in the morning. Maybe late tonight... I can't believe I actually said I want my truck to act up again...
if it want for alldata i wouldnt work on the late model stuff. its no way to keep up with it.Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
I appreciate the help. those pics are a great help. It gives me so much more direction than that stuipd Haynes wiring diagram...
the best thing it could do is cut off for good. then you can check itQuote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
I figured that much, I'm keeping it handy just incase it desides to change on me... lol... It's been pretty unpredictible lately. I hope it will start acting up so I can test it. I ahve to work late tonight so It will have to wait till in the morning. Maybe late tonight... I can't believe I actually said I want my truck to act up again...
I figured I got lucky with my truck since it's a '94. The only electronic problem I have is the ABS chip is crap from the factory and the local deal told me it's not a recall even though I got a letter on it. Of course, I threw the letter away because they are supposed to have a copy of it and now I have to get a copy of it to rpove they don't know what they don't know what they are talking about. I hate taking my truck to have work done. It's so expensive. The local charged me $110 for front brake pads and check the rear. Oh, and it only took him 2 hours to do it! lol... that was the first and last time my trucks been in a shop...
just as well be for god, I can't trust it enough to drive it anywhere the way it is now... It won't happen though, it like to tease me... lol... I guess it keeps me on my toes
thats a little tight on the brakes. 75 to 80.00 will get you a brake job around here. you said something about water, its not getting in the computer is it?Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
I figured I got lucky with my truck since it's a '94. The only electronic problem I have is the ABS chip is crap from the factory and the local deal told me it's not a recall even though I got a letter on it. Of course, I threw the letter away because they are supposed to have a copy of it and now I have to get a copy of it to rpove they don't know what they don't know what they are talking about. I hate taking my truck to have work done. It's so expensive. The local charged me $110 for front brake pads and check the rear. Oh, and it only took him 2 hours to do it! lol... that was the first and last time my trucks been in a shop...
We had the same thing happen in a 98 dodge caravan. Went through mosto f the same things you've done. What it came down to was the computer was loosing communication somewhere within the wiring harness. They pretty much completely gutted the van and replaced the whole harness. Started right up and never had a problem sense. The tech wracked his brain for about 4 or 5 days before he decided all that it could be was the harness.
I'm not sure if that encourageing or not Firebird. I appreciate the input though.. I'm hopeing it doesn't resort to that...
It doesn't look like it. the computer is up under my dash and this leak is on the floor right at the seal somewhere. It would ahve to work real hard to get in there...
just to let everyone know, my truck is warming up as I speak in hopes that it will screw up so I can test it... If not, I guess I will just have to wait till morning...
go figure, my truck won't break down when I want it to.... oh well, theres always plenty of times when I don't want it to...
next time it stops start checking the harness for continuity. Not unless the regulator is shot in your alternator and it's frying stuff. when it does run is it charging at 14.4 or less? Wife's grandam's alternator went bad and her lights were flashing, bells were dinging, and door locks were flipping on and off.
my volt gage usually runs aroufn 12 to 14. Lt1 posted the checklist for me and thats what I'm going to work on. If I don't find anything there, I will start on the harness.
just to keep everyone up to date. I havn't had any luck working on it this weekend. I figured that I will end up waiting till next weekend because I am going to be out of town From Wednesday till Friday night. Maybe I'll get a chance to work on it when I get back.
Since it's been a week since I posted last I figured I'd post to keep it alive... I made it back from my trip on Friday night and started running the truck this morning. So far I've had no problems. I tried to get it to not start over the weekend but just letting it warm up didn't do it. It's now been about 15 miles on and off throughout the day it it still starts up... Again, I'll keep everyone posted and I appreciate the help. Lt1s10- eventually I'll get a chance to get a better idea as to whats wrong. You're diagram you posted is great. I'm sure it will narrow the problem down... Thanks again
:toocool:Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
Since it's been a week since I posted last I figured I'd post to keep it alive... I made it back from my trip on Friday night and started running the truck this morning. So far I've had no problems. I tried to get it to not start over the weekend but just letting it warm up didn't do it. It's now been about 15 miles on and off throughout the day it it still starts up... Again, I'll keep everyone posted and I appreciate the help. Lt1s10- eventually I'll get a chance to get a better idea as to whats wrong. You're diagram you posted is great. I'm sure it will narrow the problem down... Thanks again
I have narrowed the problem once more!!! I figured once I started to brag about it working, it would shut down on me... I think my truck likes to be home, so far everytime it's broken down, it has been at home. Anyway, went home for lunch and when I went to leave, it wouldn't start so I got my chance to use the info Lt1s10 gave me... No signal to the injectors, unplugged the 4 pin connector to the dist. and got nothing out of it with the key on. Next step, pull the computer (which was laying on the floorboard anyway;) and check pin A9 or A16 with the key on and I had a light. Solution: faulty PCM or connector... I'm 99.999% positive it's not the computer. I'll tell you why... After I checked the two pins, I plugged it back in and pushed on the wires to make sure they were makeing a good connection and it fired right up. Any solutions on my next step? At this point I'm not sure if it's the connection or the harness itself. I doubt it but could it be the chip? If it is just the connector (crosses fingers and toes), how do I replace it, I didn't know if I had to replace the whole harness or how that works... I'm going to call the local dealer and see if they have any input also...Thanks guys...
Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
I have narrowed the problem once more!!! I figured once I started to brag about it working, it would shut down on me... I think my truck likes to be home, so far everytime it's broken down, it has been at home. Anyway, went home for lunch and when I went to leave, it wouldn't start so I got my chance to use the info Lt1s10 gave me... No signal to the injectors, unplugged the 4 pin connector to the dist. and got nothing out of it with the key on. Next step, pull the computer (which was laying on the floorboard anyway;) and check pin A9 or A16 with the key on and I had a light. Solution: faulty PCM or connector... I'm 99.999% positive it's not the computer. I'll tell you why... After I checked the two pins, I plugged it back in and pushed on the wires to make sure they were makeing a good connection and it fired right up. Any solutions on my next step? At this point I'm not sure if it's the connection or the harness itself. I doubt it but could it be the chip? If it is just the connector (crosses fingers and toes), how do I replace it, I didn't know if I had to replace the whole harness or how that works... I'm going to call the local dealer and see if they have any input also...Thanks guys...
can you use a long tie- rap or tie down and run it around the computer to pull the male plug tighter into the female plug?is that the pin that was bent? find out which one it is for sure and you can push the wire on through the plug and put a new end on it and then put it back in place. it dont give you much room to work with. hope thats what it is, in which case the diagram really helped. you did good. :cool:
Couldn't have done it without your help though, and yes thos diagrams helped more than I could have imagined...
As far as options, I talked to a dealer here and they may or may not offer a replacement clip... Some help they are... I'm not sure which pin it is, it's hard to tell, I do know that the pin that was bent was on the computer and not the "female" clip... I'm almost positive it's in the clip from the harness and not the computer clip because when it didn't start the last time, I put the new computer in to try it and it still didn't start. I assume that it's the harness for that reason. I have no idea once so ever on which pin it is though... I will try to tie or strap it down and see if that takes care of it. I'm going to call out to the dealer again and see about that clip. They need my ID number and such that i don't have here at work... As always, thanks for the help and I will let you know what happens in the next few days...
long as you know where its at you can try to fix it.Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
Couldn't have done it without your help though, and yes thos diagrams helped more than I could have imagined...
As far as options, I talked to a dealer here and they may or may not offer a replacement clip... Some help they are... I'm not sure which pin it is, it's hard to tell, I do know that the pin that was bent was on the computer and not the "female" clip... I'm almost positive it's in the clip from the harness and not the computer clip because when it didn't start the last time, I put the new computer in to try it and it still didn't start. I assume that it's the harness for that reason. I have no idea once so ever on which pin it is though... I will try to tie or strap it down and see if that takes care of it. I'm going to call out to the dealer again and see about that clip. They need my ID number and such that i don't have here at work... As always, thanks for the help and I will let you know what happens in the next few days...
Narrowing the problem down one day at a time... lol Thats the way it goes sometimes...
sounds like you know what youre doing anyway. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
Narrowing the problem down one day at a time... lol Thats the way it goes sometimes...
I try... Thats about all I can say...
I zip tied the PCM and red clip tonight. If it gets me through the week without any problems, I'll consider this another case closed. If not, well, I'll have to dig a bit more I guess. Let's just hope this is it...
Just to update--- It's been one week and no problems as of yet... If it goes till this weekend with no problems, I'm going to put my new computer with my Hypertech chip in it and zip-tie the crap out of it again and throw a big party... lol...
sounds like your on to somrthing. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
Just to update--- It's been one week and no problems as of yet... If it goes till this weekend with no problems, I'm going to put my new computer with my Hypertech chip in it and zip-tie the crap out of it again and throw a big party... lol...
Thats what I thought til tonight... Went to Wal-mart to do some shopping (which is right up the street). Came out and the truck wouldn't start. I tried to move the plugs around a bit and nothing. I cut the zip ties off and played with the wires a bit more and still nothing. So my nd my girl walked home and now I know what I'm going to do in the morning. I've got to go get it and hope it starts. Maybe put the new computer in and zip tie it up again and see if I can get another week out of it... Oh well, may still be onto something. Still not dependable though...
Ok. I need you help once more Lt1. I'm still not getting a signal to my injecters, but I think I'm up against somethign much bigger than a loose connection as originally thought. I ran that same test about 4 or 5 times trying to figure it out. Two of the times I came up with the faulty connection but the other two times I came up with an open circut at 467 or 468. Thats the first time this has come up. According to the wireing diagram for my inhjecters, 467 is a dark blue wire going from the ECM to one of the injecters and 468 is a dark green going to the other injecter. I'm not sure how to check for an open circut on these wires but I have a feeling that I'm going to run into more of a problem that i can fix. If you've got any info to lend I would appreciate it. If I can't do this my self, it will end up getting towed into the shop. Thanks in advance for your help...
I'm not sure how to check for an open circut on these wires but I have a feeling that I'm going to run into more of a problem that i can fix. you can fix it just hold on.
take your ohms meter unplug the connector at the computer and at the injs. and check continuity on D16 and D14, to the inj. 467 and 468 are the ground wires going to the injs. from the comp.
if you have continuity then there is nothing wrong with the wires.
? do you have 12v on the red and white wire at the injs. with key on. check with test light not noid light.
if we can got togother here we'll fix this thing
I do have 12v with the key on at the inj. I will have to work on the continuity tests later. My truck is in the Wal-mart parking lot and it's gonna stay there till Monday. I've got a friend comming over in the morning and we'll try it then... Hope your weekend is going good... Mines not bad aside from the truck. Just got back from a friends house and riding 4 wheelers... Much more fun than working on a truck... Thanks for the help, I'll let you know what I come up with in the morning...
ever think about getting a carb?
No actually I didn't... lol Thats kinda funny though. I'm not much of a carb man myself, I never could get one to run right all the time. Either to rich or too lean never somewhere in the middle.
Ok LT1... I ran a continuity test on the 16 and 14 plugs and nothing. I then ran it on each of the injecters and nothing on either one of them. I'm not sure if I did this right but I had the key in the on position when I checked it and i didn't get anything out of anything! Let me know where you think I should go from here. In my opinion, I've got a bad wire in the harness and I don't like it. Any other advice?
I ran the test originally on the red plug which is the A-B plug, I suppose that the blue plug is the D plug I need to check, is this right? I thought about that after we came back home. That may explain why th einjecters didn't check out right... I was checking the red plug because that was the one I checked with the last test. I'm on my way back to check the blue plug and will let you know... thanks
ok... Heres what i have. I checked the blue plug which should be the D16 & D14, they show up as a -1 which probably isn't right. Either way the inj's don't show anything on the scale. Does it matter that my multi-meter is digital? I rechecked with my 12v light to make sure the problem still showed the same open circut and it is. Any advice??? Thanks
dont sound like you;re checking it right. if the noid light is "on" at the inj., but not flashing when you turn the motor over then you've got a short. it should be flashing. you need to check those 2 wires and make sure they are not shorted to groud. the computer is the ground for the inj. so both of those wires should be open until the computer. grounds them. the inj. could be shorting out all so. take the ohms meter and unplug the plug at the computer and at the inj. put the - meter lead to ground and the + to # 14 and # 16 pins and see if either wire is shorted to ground. should be open. dont cut the key on. check the ohms across the inj. also should be over 1.3 ohms. if the truck is running now its no need to check it its gonna check ok.
Truck is not running... Just checked the inj's the CORRECT way!... I have .04 on the 467 & 468. The only reading i get out of D16 & D14 is a -1, otherwise I get no reading at all
sorry, did not test the D pins right. I will do that and let you know
lets start all over, do you have a "noid light" and a "test light" . 2 dif things.Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
Truck is not running... Just checked the inj's the CORRECT way!... I have .04 on the 467 & 468. The only reading i get out of D16 & D14 is a -1, otherwise I get no reading at all
Yes, I have both.
the noid light burn all the time?Quote:
Originally posted by Fonzy
Yes, I have both.