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Being a life long Ford Guy, my "T" is my first experience with owning a Chevy motor.
I think I'm having what is a common problem with SBC. When the car is hot, the starter doesn't crank over. You can her it click, (probably the solenoid kicking in) but no spin. Only does it when hot and the charging system and battery seem to be in order.
Ideas?
Thanks,
Rick
Hi the best fix I have found is using a 95 and up chevy starter they will bolt right on to early blocks they are a permenant magnet gear reduction mini starter I get mine from the wrecking yard for 25 bucks in a normal chevy starter the windings get hot and create too much resistance adding a remote selinoid helps but not much at least that has been my experience.
Joe
I'm gonna order a sheild to start with though the gear reduction starter sounds good too. Last night it happened again although the car had sat 45mins to an hour. Is this the same problem or should I be looking for something else??
Thanks,
Rick
One other thing to check is whether you have a good ground circuit. Two things, one is paint between the starter housing where it bolts on and the bell housing. Before bolting up the starter, both surfaces should be free from paint. Second, make sure you have a cable from the bell housing to the chassis to ensure that the engine is in touch with ground. Relying on the motor mount bolts is not always sufficient. While the real problem is as described above, having a marginal ground compounds the problem.
My k350 has a remote solenoid on the firewall. Though I don't know a lot about starters and the electrical process, apparently the remote solenoid takes care of that problem. Someone on the forum here can probably tell you more about it; however, putting the remote solenoid on the firewall takes it away from the heat of the exhaust manifold or headers that is warming up the starter good. Also, I threw away the metal heat shield and used header wrap to wrap the header next to the starter. It seems that the metal shield just created another heat conductor and impeded the flow of air around the started. Will be interested in hearing the opinion of others.
The best, cleanest, and a permanent fix (IMHO) is to use a gear reduction starter. Powermaster makes a very good one that will crank almost any compression ratio and isn't effected by heat. I went through two stock Chevy starters on my 461 big block. I had hot start problems and even broke the case on one. Switched to a gear reduction starter and had no problems from that time on.
Wow, lot's of good info guys! Thank You.
Bob, there's a beefy strap between the block and the chassis. Is that a good enough ground? Also, wouldn't a ground issue be consistant ?
Ronnie, I've thought about the remote solenoid but since it's a T, everything is exposed. I'm trying to keep the clutter down. This may be a last resort if I can't get anything else to work. Header wrap is the same issue. Since I already have a shield on order, that'll be my first remedy.
Streets: Actually, my headers are pretty darn close to the starter. It's got some of those "block hugger" style headers. They're close enought that I think I'm gonna have to pull the header on that side if the motor to get the starter out.
C-Line: I agree that the gear reduction would be the best long term solution. If the quick fix doesn't get it, that's where I'm going.
THE SAGA CONTINUES: I've been driving the car a lot 'cuz my daily driver is in the shop. Yesterday, I ran some errands with it. At the 1st two stops, I had a hard time getting started... it would always click and if I tried several times, eventually it would fire. Drove 45 minutes to stop 3. When I tried to start... no clicks no nothing though my Voltmeter showed that the battery was taking a load. After messing with it for a 1/2 hour and not getting anywhere. I started asking around was able to borrow an insulated screw. First I shorted across the "big" terminals and the starter spun right up. Then I shorted from battery terminal to the solenoid terminal. Starter engaged and fired right up. I went back home and grabbed an old screwdriver so I could do this again if needed. The kicker is that since then, I haven't had the problem once. It always fires right up.
I dunno...
Rix,
"Beefy" strap probably would do it, as long as it's bare metal to metal contact at the block/terminal/frame. Would it be "constant"? Yes the ground would be constant, but in the case of not having one or having painted surfaces, the ground would be marginal. The ability of the armature to turn when heat expansion occurs would not. In other words, when cool, there would be less energy needed to overcome any resistence, as compared to hot. If the ground is marginal, it wouldn't appear to be a problem at cool, but when energy requirement increases it could be insufficient.
Based on your latest experience I wonder if your solenoid or the terminal connections are the problem.
The terminals could be a problem. I don't have much faith in crimp on connectors... especially if I'm not the one who crimped them. I usually solder everything.
I had the electric fan quit working a couple of weeks ago. I messed with it for 2 hours, tracing it out, jumping relay, using a sounder to find breaks in the harness and couldn't find anything wrong. All of a sudden, it starts working, I always hate when that happens. It makes me wonder when it's gonna happen next.
I want to find something and fix it.;)
I think that one of my winter projects is gonna be a complete re-wire from headlight to taillight.
Rick
Nope, it's a roadster with no hood/sides. Long term plans will include "Lime Fire" style headers with mufflers underneath instead of under the frame rails.Quote:
Originally posted by Streets
Definately a solenoid problem then, just cause it's a new starter don't mean it's all good! IF it happens again, before you short out the terminals, hit the starter with a hammer lightly and then try the key. You may just have a weak bendix!
Block huggers on a T?? Is it a coupe w/hood & side panels too??
Here's a pic
I had a similar problem with my Chevy 454.....when hot the starter would not crank. Whether or not it was due to my 12:1 compression or heat on the starter I am not sure,....however after I installed a 'tiny starter', wrapped in a heat blanket (starter near big headers)...it has been fine since. Sure I got other problems,.....just not that one anymore.....
Good luck...
Heck ya we have Winter... it's when I can see snow on the San Bernardino Mountains and it's too cool to wear shorts... heck sometimes I even have to wear socks to keep my toes warm in my sandals! :D
I could tell ya but then everyone would wanna move out here and we've got enough ppl here already,
Not everyone Rix. I left there in '74 'cause it was getting too nutty then!
heck my sister lives up in Dobbins, Ca & she'd asked you "What the hell are socks" cause the only time she DOESNT have her sandles on is at work & when shen come back to Illinois to visit in the winter........joeQuote:
Originally posted by Rix2Six
sometimes I even have to wear socks to keep my toes warm in my sandals! :D
I installed a powermaster gear reduction starter, and everything was fine,for a while then, it quit just like all the other starters,it spins but it is like the bendex is not engaging with the fly wheel.but when I pull the bendex out it lines up prefect in the flywheel. I got another new stock starter and put it on, with the very same results.could this be a grounding problem ? any sugestions.
This does sound like a heat issue. We had a similar discussion about this same problem for the chevys just a few days ago. You can search for it posted by "Youther" called "Neutral Safety Switch" or you might find this link helpful ifyou decide to fix the problem for good.
http://www.novaresource.org/starter.htm
By installing a remote solenoid, heat wont keep you parked when you are wantin' to go!
this also happened when it was cold and I installed a new starter,first time tring to turn it over with the new one