Thread: Tech1, Parking Brake?

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People forget that the main advantage with a re-pro body is you don't have a rust problem and you don't have to do bodywork.
(Most times anyway, my Brookville 31 shifted in the crate during transit and got a couple of minor dents, but no big deal.)

Don't be telling yourself you can't do some of this stuff because you can.
It's all a learning process and one of the more important parts is having the right tools to do a particular job.

Anyhoo . . . when you solder the cable, solder it prior to cutting.
I wasn't too clear on that part, but if you don't solder prior to the cut, the cable will unwind and it will be a bitch to get it back together close to the normal diameter.

Make the cut with a muffler cutter or Dremel tool.
Grinding through the cable instead of using a cable cutter or bolt cutter will alleviate distortion.

I use a fairly soft non-core solder with flux.
Acid core solder works ok as well.
I neutralize the solder point with baking soda dissolved in water, not sure if it all gets neutralized, but it's better than nothing.
So far (12 years down the road and no problems.)