350 chev? RE: fwd-rwd convert.

I have a few basic questions about the dimensional limits of the chev 350.

I need to know how shallow an oil pan can be on a stock stroke. I will be using a remote reservoir to assist as well as a preluber. I need to make room for a rack and pinion steering unit that is cutting it close.

The distributor issue near the firewall is also an issue and wanted to know of the better ways to convert or change the “old school” stick distributor.


Why?

I am converting a fwd car to rwd and the issues are coming up .

The goal is not only rwd per say but it is part of the project.

The tunnel is worked out already and the front sub frame is ready to finish up but there are many issues of placement based on the dimensional limits.

Is there any who have specialized in the area of fwd to rwd conversions?

Thank you

You're only going to be able to lose about 3 inches off the bottom of the pan or you'll have clearance problems with the oil pump. Your best bet is to go dry sump with an external oil pump. If you go that route, you'll only need something like 4 or 5 inches down from the oil pan rail. A dry sump block is going to cost you a few dollars, $2200 for a machined and ready to be assembled block. A dry sump aluminum block from GM is going to run you $4400. Milodon sells a dry sump pan for circle track racing with a depth of 5.5 inches. This is all probably out of your price range, I'm just letting you know your options.

For the distributor, if clearance is an issue, you should run a crank trigger. Because the trigger is mounted on the front of the crank, there is no trigger in the distributor and the cap can be made much shorter. You could also notch the firewall, cut a hole in it and weld in new steel to make a pocket that clears the distributor. I do not recommend you run a points type distributor or it will really limit your performace. Also, if you have clearance problems, it will be a pain to try to service those points every few thousand miles.

remove the hole fwd engine cradle, then build somthing that will work.

Use a point-type dist. with a Petronix or similar electronic conversion kit. Depending on the intended use, you could section the pan and make it wider so it still held enough oil. Dry-sumping isn't all that high-tech, you just need a remote filter adapter and a front-driven second oil pump. The stock one will work for a scavenge pump.

I was thinking that if you got rid of the original pump, you could move the pan that much closer to the underside of the engine.

am i the only one curious as to what car this is going into?

Thank you very much for the input. I have used the fwd cradle with mods so far and have a steering problem. The original issue was the location of the stock spindle steering location. I was able to reverse them due to the spindles being centered in this manner. Yes they work perfect. So my new steering location is out front under the pan instead of under the flywheel. The problem is the firewall has a stock heater fan that I want to try and keep. The less I have to change the better. I may have to drop the rack and pinion but I really wanted to keep it.

I am glad to take some pictures.

No matter what “cost” is always an issue but the end goal is not a quick fix so much as a final goal reached. So relatively high prices are ok.. I planned for a aluminum block in the future .

Yes if I have to I will rip out the stock fan, heater core and related parts and modify more extensively but I want to exhaust all options first as it is so much easier to research than it is to rebuild a firewall from scratch.

I will be doing all the brake and welding work..

Thank you for your help.

It’s a 1995 gm car and in 1993 the dash had a rwd steering light that was never used.

Guess the car.

It is vary bland status wise compared to many of the cars I have loved and owned but that’s what makes the transformation so great.

Thanks again.

lumina? i have no idea

Pontiac Bonneville in 1993 has an unused light on the dash for rear wheel steering.

The Lumina has a fwd kit available for it that uses a caddy 4.9l overbored and cammed to death. The kit is made by a company called ASG. They still will make one for you if you really have to have one. asgindy.com or something like that.


I know some may not understand from a purest point of view but I have no illusions I would not consider this car a "hot rod" more like I am applying hotrod ideals to a car that is the epitome of the 90's fwd mistake. At least I am using a SB.

The only issues I have are the cost of an aluminum block (pricey).

I really wanted to go all Keith black on the motor but I also want this to actually happen some time in my lifetime. lol

Dale Earnhardt converted his car to rear wheel drive and a V8, you might ask him.

mike in tucson

Quote:

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Originally posted by robot
Dale Earnhardt converted his car to rear wheel drive and a V8, you might ask him.

mike in tucson

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Great idea.

Quick, I guess Dale isnt talking anymore....

Solving the problems is tough since the FWD setup is much shorter than a V8 with its accessories mounted in the front. The distributor problem can be solved with the already-mentioned fixes or with an LT1 type front distributor. The pan is another problem that is tough.......especially if you want the car to sit at stock height or lower.

Without seeing the actual setup, does removing the stock cradle help? Could something like an early Camaro front subframe work? Of course, there would be the subframe attachment problem, etc. In any case, it sounds like your welding supply store will see you a bunch.

mike in tucson

Actually all the information provided has helped alot. The original sub frame is going to work (seriously modified) but more than likely I will have to be creative with the stock heater and AC unit. Just a fact of life I guess. I am going with electric fans to help with engine cooling. Once I get it finished enough I will provide some pictures.


Thanks again.