Restomod a '40 ford using a modern chassis

[hoof]

I was looking to see what late model chassis would fit well under a '40 ford body. The wheelbase on the old boy is 112, and a late model t-bird is 110. Is there anyway to use the chassis from a unibody car and put the old body on? Has anyone done this with another body style. I realize the unibody hasn't got a "chassis" really, but could I torch it up until I could mount the '40 ford body on it? Thanks,
CHAZ

[lakota]

Hoof,

If you're not a die-hard Ford fan, and you're not worried about it being all Ford. Look into a Chevy S-10 frame. The come in three WB sizes, 108, 117, 122. The frames have a flared joint just before the rise at the rear end that can be ground out to either shorten or lengthen the frame. All S-10 frames come stock with IFS, front disc brakes, pwr brakes, pwr steering. Newer ones come with rear disc brakes. Also, the frame is boxed from the front to the flared joint. A small block Chevy with a 350 trans with a 9" tailshaft will drop right in. They also make mounts for a Ford Engine.

If you want to stay Ford, look into a Ranger frame. But forget IFS, it's got the old 70s pick-up style swing arm suspension. A small block Ford will fit with special mounts.

Measure your present frame, then go to the local junk yard and do some measurements on both the S-10, and the Ranger.

I just finished a job putting an S-10 frame under a 52 Ford pick-up with a 327 Chevy engine. I used everything on the frame including the steering column, brake booster/master cylinder.

Good luck

[Darin]

I would have to say a big no on the frame change especially a unibody . A forty ford body in its self is not very sturdy. The original frame is designed to fit the contour of the bodywhich gets its strength from the frame. Although it is not impossible to use a different frame such as a ranger as mentioned I guarantee you will spend hours upon hours to get it even close to working . I would suggest an original frame with perhaps a mustang 2front suspension and a leaf spring rearend kit , both of which can be bought for a reasonable price. I just did this and can tell you that even with this set up it is no easy task . You have very limited clearances at the firewall and at the radiator when you change engines ( which I suppose you will do) . Believe me you will be much better off with the original frame .

[techinspector1]

I agree with Darin. You can buy a bolt-in or weld-in Mustang II crossmember to use IFS, manual or power R&P and disc brakes. I would go one step further and box the frame.

[Dave Severson]

Yup, what Tech said. Swapping to a different frame requires a lot of extra work that a lot of guys don't consider when starting the project. You'd have to build all new body mounts, radiator support mounts, front sheetmetal mounts, bumper brackets and a bunch of other things. Switching to a MII type front will give you a good ride, upgraded brakes, etc. IMO, the stock frame with boxing plates and upgraded suspension works great.

[Bib_Overalls]

When you are done a 40 Ford on an updated original frame will be worth more, much more than one riding on a later chassis.

I have a friend who owns two 40s, a coupe and sedan. Both run Chevy motors, Mustang II front ends, and Chassis Engineering rear springs with a Ford 8" rear axle. A very proven setup. He drives them everywhere. And that includes long cross country trips at freeway speeds.

[mopar978]

I agree it'll be worth more on a original frame too but if he doesn't have a frame a 40 on a S-10 frame would be pretty neat.

[Swifster]

Many of the aftermarket frame suppliers such as TCI and Art Morrison make frames for this car all day, and because they sell so many, they are reasonably price. This and they will make sure the frame is set up for the suspension you wish to run (i.e., Mustang II, rear leafs, IRS, etc.) and usually have the brake master included.

While I think it would be a large amount of greif, the newer Rangers from '98 on use a standard front suspension (no Twin I-Beam). I go with the aftermarket frame if money allows, and if not, box the original and get the suspension 'kits' as listed above.

Good luck!

[Darin]

to tell you the truth , If I had it to do over
I woud go with the original front end set up . I have a buddy that just finished his
frame ( 40 ford) and updated it as far as
brakes shocks and whatever but retained the original suspension. He said that he has driven several with this setup and
for normal driving they actrually drive very good. When I was a teen my dad had a 40 coupe that i drove all over the place . It was stock except a 327 with three speed
and a 57 chevy rear. It drove great as I recall .

[slowpoke]

I agree with beam axle suspension. Set up correctly it is a good performer. The 40 I am building will be my first with MII, all 3 previous were dropped beam axle. My 46 is MII and I like it fine, but maybe no better than beam set up. I recently drove a 39 with beam built by one of the old timers around here. I have never driven anything that drove better. In all aspects. Too late for me, MII is in place and will stay. Joe

[Darin]

Hey slowpoke. what strenth coil springs are you going to use ? What did you use
on your 46? The springs on mine are way too weak and I need to order a set. There is a site that sells eaton springs for hot rods and they recommend 352 pound
springs . I dont want it to set too low, I was told the lower arms need to be pretty much level with the cross brace . My dad has a 47 ford coupe with M ll and it drives good but it is a hundred miles away and I can't remember how the arms are in relation to the cross member . Darin