Setting Ride Height???

I am new to this board and have spent hours reading the threads and the tech threads and have really enjoyed it. I have dreamed of building a hot rod since many early youth, which puts it in the early 60's. I had thousands of old hot rod magazines saved but lost them all to a basement flood. So I'm trying to remember all things I had read and drooled over all those years.

Anyway I spent a lot of my years involved in aviation from building airliners to fabricating 1200 hp all carbon fiber racing P-51 mustangs. I figure now is the time to build my hot rod. I have no fear of jumping in and fabricating just need to do my homework before I start making sparks and dust.
My hot rod tastes run more along the lines of the Jimmy Shine truck than a Boydster. I find both men very talented and they create really great things, I just find the Jimmy Shine style to scream Hot Rod.

Here is my plan. A very low 28-29 ford roadster pickup. I have a 51 ford 24 stud flathead that will run a 4" Merc crank, a high rise dual with a pair of 97,s. Was originally thinking a 39 trans with Zephyr gears but think I may go with a T-5 for driveability. This will then go out to a 40 Ford rear end.

Anyway here is my big question. In setting up my ride height while building the frame can anyone give me an idea of how much approx I should allow for the suspension to settle. Like I said it will be a fenderless 28-29 roadster pickup, dropped I-beam front end on buggy spring, 40 Ford rear end on buggy spring, built flathead with no hood of course, shortened box. Pretty basic, low, loud, fun, hot rod.

Appreciate any comments,

Jim

Jreltub----I have a very traditional style model A roadster pickup using a transverse leaf spring with reversed eyes and a 4" dropped super Bell I beam and 40 Ford spindles . The rear suspension is home brewed 4 link with coil springs in home made coil cups, and I have a modified model A frame. I am running a small block Chev with turbo 350. Welcome aboard. I have been building hotrods for 40 years, and would be glad to help you out with any specific questions you may have. In terms of how much will the front suspension settle with a motor and body installed-----mine settled as follows (15" wheels and tires were a constant throughout this range)
Measurement from front bumper bracket hole to the ground
15 9/16" with stock Ford axle and no motor
12 7/8" with 4" dropped super Bell axle and no motor
11 5/8" with Chev smallblock and turbo 350 automatic installed
10 7/8" after body installed and driven 6 months.
A word of caution---if you plan on running front fenders, do not get anything greater in drop than 4" for a front axle, or I can gaurantee wheel to fender clearance issues.

Besides getting your answers here ,check withyour suspension supplier and compare.Tire size is the first thing your going to be asked.:D

Hi Brian, I was just about to email you. Do you have any good pics of the rear 4 bar you made. I was debating on whether to make or buy. Best deal I can find is $230 US$ from speedway motors. Horton's wants 473 CDN. Even Paul wants 343 cdn for just the pieces from his welder series business. I assume you know that Paul Horton sold the hot rod parts business to a Paul Barber who moved it to Milton. my home town.

38 racing---I have included 2 pics of the 4-bar setup on my current roadster pickup, and one of a hairpin setup on the 27 roadster I built 10 years ago.---I don't see any difference at all in the ride between the 2 types. Note that on the roadster pickup chassis I did run one more 1 1/2" square tube from the bottom of the front 4-bar brackets foreward to weld into the transmission crossmember to make it a "box" for more strength.
I bought the ends and the neoprene?? inserts from Horton for the 4-bars and used some heavy wall pipe that I bought at the local steel warehouse. I flame cut my own brackets.
---You will notice that in a fit of cheapness I didn't put any adjusters on the 4-bar ends---this works fine as long as your damn sure of your geometry before you weld everything solid.
No, I didn't know that Horton had sold the business.

more pics

last pic

Thanks brian, It looks like the bars point inward toward front, correct? and based on a pic from before are the axle brackets cut from rectangular tubing rather than flat stock?