Double humps + Alternator???

Ok, i'm looking at a set of 64cc double hump heads. The guy wants 100 dollars for both. I already have springs/valves that will fit them. The only problem is that i don't know exactly how to mount the alternator because pre1969 the accessory holes weren't drilled in the head.

I need either a solution to this problem, or an after market bracket that will let me use an alternator mounted somewhere other than on the head. I've heard of companies that make brackets that mount to the header and the water pump but i can't find them? Can someone help me please?

Look here.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0363&langId=-1

Is this what you're looking for?

Dutch

Hooker and a bunch of the other header companies and performance parts companies make a bracket that solves the problem....

They sell the bracket at pep boys to, mine has the lower bolted to the water pump, and the top bolts to the manifold

Look for one like this

The reason i haven't just gone for the stock style brackets is because i hear that they have a problem slipping and throwing belts...

I wish they just had accessory holes in them.

Good luck with the build

This This Will Work?

Why don't you just drill and tap the head?? Use some gasket sealer on the threads and keep your depth right as not to block the water and you will be ok.

try a junk head first there may not be much to drill and tap on them humpers heads

The problem with drilling and tapping the double hump heads is that the face of them is angled, not flat like the other heads.

and not much iron to tap in to

Quote:

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Originally posted by Hopper111
This This Will Work?

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Yeah it looks like those that are labled for use on cylinder heads without accessory holes would work.

Awful pricey; but, as always, your wallet, your build.

On a side note, I have had really good luck with the ones I provided a link to in the first reply. I used a set similar to them in my '55 for years and have never thrown a belt. It aint got tons of torque though and that might be why.

Anyway, like I said before, the ones in the link you provided should also work; but, I don't know that there is any guarentee that they wouldn't throw a belt either.

You may very well indeed be better off, drilling and tapping as others have suggested.

JMO.

Cheers,
Dutch

If u buy the stuff from jegs that you provided in the link above do u buy A B C and D? or how does that work? I know its a stupid question and the answer is probably yes but it never hurts to ask.

If any of u guys have some insight on how well the stock style bracketry hold and belt please speak up, I really don't want to spend 200 dollars on some brackets if it's really not necessary.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Hopper111
If u buy the stuff from jegs that you provided in the link above do u buy A B C and D? or how does that work? I know its a stupid question and the answer is probably yes but it never hurts to ask.

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Yes, you would get a, b, c and d. So, here's how it works:

"C" bolts to the stud on the water pump and the long slotted part of the bracket connects to the alternator as the tension adjustment.

"D"s open end, bolts to the header on the driver's side of the engine.

"A" Bolts to the closed slots of "D" (slide fwd or back to adjust position and align pulleys)

"B" Is a spacer that connects between the two tangs of "A" and the "bottom" bolt holes of the alternator.

If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I will re-work it.

Dutch

Been doing it for years, you take a piece of black plumbers steel pipe, 5/8's, and grind it down on the desired angle to get back square from the front pulley to the drive pulley- put it between the alt. & the head. The bolt should go about 1/2" into the head, it's only needed to stabilize the top of the alt. from twisting and throwing the belt.
Don't over tighten.