Are all Model A chassis the same?

Alright, I'm starting my search and have a question...the first of many I'm sure...

Were all of the Model A car chassis built to the same specs (length, width, etc.) from model to model, and from year to year? I know that the truck frames are larger, but would there be any difference between, say, a '30 roadster and a '32 coupe chassis, or any other combination of year and/or model?

Thanks!
Aaron

Model A's were built 1928-1931. The '32 frame is COMPLETELY different, though model A bodies have been adapted to them. All four years of passenger car frames are essentially the same for the Model A.

Thanks for the correction, got my years mixed up.

I'm just looking around to see what's out there in terms of chassis and bodies, wanted to make sure I'm looking at the right ones.

Along the same lines, how many years from '32-on did the frames remain the same? I guess an easier question would be, what kind of body/chassis interchangability is there from the early model A's to the mid-30's cars? I'm specifically looking at coupes and roadsters if that helps any.

Sorry if this is a painfully basic question, but thanks for any help. I've been searching online but haven't found any good info on what parts can be used with what parts, years, etc. Can you tell I'm new to early fords?:LOL:

Thanks,
Aaron

Passenger car frames:

28-31 ; same

32 is unique to that year

33-34 ; same

35-40 ; same with some slight variations between the 35-37's and 38-40

That'll do it!

Thanks alot :)

The 35-40 ford passenger car frames are also the same as the 35-41 ford 1/2 ton pickup frames. Car frames were changed in 41 but the pu frames were'nt changed until 42. The inner frame rail /x-member on the pu frames was one gauge thicker metal than the outside frame rails. Passenger car frames were the same gauge for both inner and outer layers. Convertable frames were like the pu frames but in addition to being riveted together they were also spot welded together making them stiffer. Passenger car frames had 2 body mounting brackets on each side riveted on the outside of the frame near were it kicks up over the rear end.

Thanks for the info. So what is the most common frame used for hot rods? I've read that the '32 is somewhat stronger than the earlier frames, but is that the only difference? I'm looking at building a low-slung roadster eventually - assuming I'll have to channel the body over the frame, is there an advantage of choosing one frame over another?

For reference, here's the general look I'm going for...

Another one...

The Model A frame is generally the weakest, because it's a simple ladder. Even the aftermarket "A" frames are hard to stiffen without a roll cage, although it can be done. The '32 and 33/34 frames can be made race-car stiff with the proper X-member - either round or rectangular tubing.

However, if you intend to make the car extremely low by channelling the body over the frame, it gets a little more difficult. Large X-members tend to eat into floor space.

Take a look at some of the example frames at:

http://www.peteandjakes.com in the parts section.

You can see how much more robust the X-member is in the 32 - 34 series than in the A series.

I had a Model A with a 454, toploader and 4.10 rear axle. I had to watch the throttle because of all the torque on the frame and body. If I hit it hard, it would pick up the left front tire. Once, there was enough traction that the torque on the frame/body jammed the door into the sill and chipped the paint. If the body had been glass instead of steel, I probably would have cracked it.

'32 Frames are totally different than Model A's. They are heavier, thicker, wider, and much stronger (also more expensive, either original or repro)

Nothing wrong with an A frame, but you have to box them and add crossmembers and K members, sometimes, to keep them from flexing.

If you took a stock A frame, and put you and the front and a buddy on the back, the two of you could twist the frame slightly. They were made to work that way, to go over the rough roads of those times. Especially if you are using a glass body, you want no flex, as the glass will crack.

Here is the A frame under my '27. Notice how it is boxed (4th side added for strength) ?


Don

Here's one of the neatest setups I've seen to add strengh to the A frame; http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...spagenameZWDVW You can also buy it direct from Dagel's without going through ebay, but it's the same price so doesn't much matter.

Like Jack said, with an X member it gets harder to deal with adding foot/leg room on a channeled car, but this is great for rigidity. If you're channeling, using a '32 frame would be a waste since part of it's appeal is the side member reveal. While they were stronger than the A frames, they were still fairly flimsy because of only having the K member. An A frame with an X member would be stronger than a stock style '32.

That crossmember kit really does the trick. I saw an article where they added one of these and then put an engine block on opposing corners of the frame, and it wouldn't twist.

I copied that, sort of, 15 years ago when I built my A frame for the '27. I constructed an X member and tied it into a 2 x 4 inch crossmember.

Here are some 15 year old pictures, not the best, but they will give the idea.

Don

and one more.............

Dang . . . another "A" with a toploader. Sure makes it easy to add a clutch linkage. Direct from the pedal to the fork.

wow, thanks for the replies. So the best choice for rigidity would be a Model A frame with an X-member...though would the floor then have to be too high after the body was channeled? Would Z-ing the frame instead be a better option if I used the X-member, to keep the floor level down?

Thanks again for the insight,
Aaron

If you want to get it really low, you have to Z the frame, front and rear. That is, put a kick up on both ends (usually higher in the rear) so that the center part, under the body is lower, and you don't have to channel it so far.

You would do it like the picture below.

Don

That might be the better way to go, that way I can still keep the k-member or x-member in place, but also have the floor low enough to drive relatively comfortably.

You can set the ride height anywhere you want by Z-ing the frame on one or both ends. You can also get a low front by using a tube or I-beam axle with quite a bit of drop. If you want to channel the body over the frame, however, the critical height is the amount of headroom inside - floor to ceiling. Remember, the frame comes up inside the body - particularly the X-member. I would set the ride height first, then determine how much headroom you'll lose by channelling the body. Then you can determine how much to chop the top.

I think you had asked a question awhile ago about what books might be good to read. I can't think of any offhand, but authors like Tex Smith, Don Montgomery (I think that is his name) and others all have books out about how to build hot rods and sometimes traditional rods.

If you have a Barnes and Noble Bookstore or similar in your area, go there and start looking at some of these. There are certain standards that never change from car build to car build, and once you understand these, it will make your hunt and build much easier.

I have always felt that the perfect first car for a rodder to get his feet wet in is the old standby T bucket. It is not everybody's idea of the ultimate car, but they have a lot going for them. They can be relatively easy and cheap to build, there a a million of them out there in various degrees of completion, and you can learn basics that will apply to every other car you build. I just feel they are great entry level cars, and can even be done well beyond that level, as money and skill increase.

JMO,

Don