I was wondering if and who makes an motor mount to fit a chevy 350 into a 1955 ford fairlane or is it all "hold my beer I have an idea"
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I was wondering if and who makes an motor mount to fit a chevy 350 into a 1955 ford fairlane or is it all "hold my beer I have an idea"
You realize of course that it is against the law to put a small block CHEVY in a '55 FORD?:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE: :3dSMILE:
Don
I know of no kit that does that swap but thats not to say you can't make your own. I made mine for a 53 Ranchwagon:D .
well, iguess i'm not the only crazy person, it turns out that the fairlane has already been modified to fit a chevy. thanks for the help i'm sure i will have a lot more questions " this website is great"
Got to ask why you want to slow that Fairlane down so much by putting a 350 chebbie in it? Try a 351W with some good heads and a factory roller cam setup..... 350 chebbies are terribly overrated, they are not the answer to all performance questions.......
NEVER>>>>NEVER put a chevy anything in a FORD
Get on em Hurly,gatta get them bad habits out early:LOL: Like a kid with candy ,if u get it away from him before he eats any :LOL: :LOL: .It can be done but why?
Rich,
Go for it. Your car, your money, your time, your busted knuckles, and your ideas. I run a 52 Ford F-1 pick up with a 327 Chevy, mounted on a Chevy S-10 frame. I decided to go with what pleased me. Think Burger King...Have it your way.
In answer to your question, look on the web for some Chevy advertisers for engine parts. You'll find Chevy engine mounts for almost any car or truck. You might want to keep the Ford rear though, Ford does make a hefty rear.
If it's an older Chevy engine, switch to an HEI vacuum advanced distributor. It's got no points, the coil in the cap, and only one wire to hook up. Don't get talked into a one wire altenator. That second sensor wire to your fuse box will keep your battery up, lights bright, and full voltage to your distributor.
With every one wanting to put chevy motors in everything I do not want to here any whinning when I put a 302 ford motor in my 37 chevy p/u,I have a extra 460 that I am saving for a 65 galaxie 2 door but if I can not find one it will go in a 65 impala. Jeff
Ford in a Chevy...Cool, not a problem. Works both ways.
Its just a matter of putting motor and tranny mounts in and then wiring it up:LOL: There were some good pics posted for u on the motor mounts,if u choose to make em ,or there are probably some kits available that bolt or weld in.Lots of people on here that have done this,that I am sure will have more info than me.:)
Lemme know when you get that Fairlane done, sure would like to race ya with my Ford powered Camaro!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
" Another one bites the dust........another one bites the dust.....doo-doo-doo-doo, doo-doo-doo-doo, another one bites the dust........:( :( :( :( :( :( "
RIP, '55 Ford.:CRY: :CRY: :CRY: :CRY:
Don
I am still waitin to find the crown jewel of the chevy legend ,....the 50-60s vette in run down rusted out unrepairable condition and install a 460 ,slap the bondo on it,a quick paint job and out into the public I will go:LOL: Pull up the the local hotrod weekend run and let em say ohh that vette sounds gooood ,what ya got under the hood.Then open her up a let em feast there eyes on the fordmotorsport racing valve covers :HMMM: and see if they tear up,then proceed to act like I am tryin to start it and it wont.Then hastily get outa the car and start kicking dents in the vette(hopefully not too much bondo will fall out and give me away) hollering I knew the chevy would ruin a perfectly good ford motor as I am kickin more dents in the vette:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :HMMM:
HMMMM, I THINK YOU WILL HAVE TO MAKE ONE FOR THAT ,,,,FIND A BUDDY EHO CAN MAYBE MODIFY IT FOR YOU..GOOD LUCK,,,SOUNDS LIKE A NICE PROJECT! HERES WHAT I GOT!Quote:
Originally Posted by rich76
What if it had a steel roller camshaft, four bolt main block, undercut rolled fillet crankshaft, high silicon pistons and strong PM connecting rods? We imagined it, and then engineered, developed, tested and built it. The ZZ4 is the evolution of our popular ZZ series of small blocks that power thousands of street rods, hot street cars, circle track racers and drag racers. With over 400 ft.lbs. of torque, the ZZ4 is the best way to put an aluminum head, roller cam, high performance small block between your favorite fenders.
The aluminum angle plug cylinder heads have screw in rocker studs, 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers that yield a crisp and responsive 10 to 1 compression ratio. Also included are our lightweight valve spring retainers that weigh half as much as our previous design. The valve seats are radiused and we've included valve stem seals to help keep the oil where it belongs.
To compliment the cylinder head design, we've incorporated a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474" intake and .510" exhaust valve lift. The combination makes 355 horsepower at 5250 rpm and has that great sounding muscle car idle, with just enough lope to let people know that this is no station wagon engine.
Also included with the ZZ4 is an HEI distributor with an ignition timing advance curve developed for performance, a dual plane aluminum intake manifold that accepts your spread bore or square bore carburetor, an 8" high-RPM torsional damper, 12.75" auto trans flex plate .
THAts SO FUNNY!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
WE COULD DO THE SAME THING WITH THE FORD MUSTAND,,LOL
PUT A NICE 350 IN HER,,GO TO THE SHOW AND LET THEM SAY ,SOUNDS GOOD WHATS UNDER THE HOOD,,AND TO THERE SURPRIZE ITS A 350 LOL....
LET ME EXPRESS THIS WITH YOU..I HAVE HAD SOME GREAT FORDS AND SOME GREAT CHEVYS,,I THINK ITS ALLL IN HOW YOU TAKE THE TIME TO BUILD THEM,,,BUT MY ZZ4 BY FAR IS ONE OF THE BETTER 350 ENGINES EVER PRODUCED,,,,,,,,JUST A THOUGHT!!(quote*):::)
NOTE:ZZ4 CRATE ENGINE SPECS
What if it had a steel roller camshaft, four bolt main block, undercut rolled fillet crankshaft, high silicon pistons and strong PM connecting rods? We imagined it, and then engineered, developed, tested and built it. The ZZ4 is the evolution of our popular ZZ series of small blocks that power thousands of street rods, hot street cars, circle track racers and drag racers. With over 400 ft.lbs. of torque, the ZZ4 is the best way to put an aluminum head, roller cam, high performance small block between your favorite fenders.
The aluminum angle plug cylinder heads have screw in rocker studs, 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers that yield a crisp and responsive 10 to 1 compression ratio. Also included are our lightweight valve spring retainers that weigh half as much as our previous design. The valve seats are radiused and we've included valve stem seals to help keep the oil where it belongs.
To compliment the cylinder head design, we've incorporated a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474" intake and .510" exhaust valve lift. The combination makes 355 horsepower at 5250 rpm and has that great sounding muscle car idle, with just enough lope to let people know that this is no station wagon engine.
Also included with the ZZ4 is an HEI distributor with an ignition timing advance curve developed for performance, a dual plane aluminum intake manifold that accepts your spread bore or square bore carburetor, an 8" high-RPM torsional damper, 12.75" auto trans flex plate and cast iron water pump.
Ford versus Chevy, Chevy versus Ford...This will go on for many pages just like it has on many other forums with no end result until one of the moderators decides to close it....(YAWN).
I'm not even going to type in my response. I'll just copy and paste from my own website:
Let me begin this page with a rant.
I build hot rods, I do not restore old cars. I don't believe that only Ford parts should go into a Ford, or Chevy parts into a Chevy. Each auto maker has made some great cars and trucks and some not so great cars and trucks. In hot rodding we pick and choose what we want in a vehicle. We build our rides as unique as ourselves. If we choose to build a Ford body on a Chevy frame with a Chrysler engine, and we attach Cadillac tail lights and Studebaker headlights, then so be it. This is our artwork, and to fit all these parts together in an eye appealing manner takes imagination and skill. During the 1950s, Detroit leaned toward the hot rodder for new ideas. These came out as innovations such as the Corvette, the Mustang, seat belts, dual headlights, recessed door handles, custom outside mirrors, glitzy hubcaps, custom steering wheels, widetrack wheels, lowered stance, and plush, cushy interiors. Today, American cars are assembled in foreign countries of plastic and tin and sold for big dollars. We hot rodders have chosen to go back to the American way with American cars and trucks built in Detroit, of good old American iron and steel from Pittsburg. We will build OUR vehicles OUR way, with OUR money, OUR sweat, OUR busted knuckles, using OUR ideas, to fullfill OUR needs, wants, and desires. We will continue to share OUR knowledge with each other, and as each new generation comes to us to learn, we will pass the torch in hopes that they will continue when we've parked OUR vehicles for the last time.
End of rant.
I TOTALLY AGREE WE ARE ALL UNIQUE!::: the bottom line is all will run great ,if you no what your doing! THE END OF THE FIGHT! JUST LIKE OUR OPINIONSQuote:
Originally Posted by lakota
OPINIONS ARE LIKE BUTT HOLES WE ALL HAVE ONE ,,,,LOL
HAVE A NICE DAY SIR!
I don't bad mouth the guys running chebbies, just the engines....
I SEE U DONT LIKE US CHEVY BOYS,
I AGREE THE 351 IS A OK MOTOR,,BUT MY ZZ4 IS MUCH BETTER..
What if it had a steel roller camshaft, four bolt main block, undercut rolled fillet crankshaft, high silicon pistons and strong PM connecting rods? We imagined it, and then engineered, developed, tested and built it. The ZZ4 is the evolution of our popular ZZ series of small blocks that power thousands of street rods, hot street cars, circle track racers and drag racers. With over 400 ft.lbs. of torque, the ZZ4 is the best way to put an aluminum head, roller cam, high performance small block between your favorite fenders.
The aluminum angle plug cylinder heads have screw in rocker studs, 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers that yield a crisp and responsive 10 to 1 compression ratio. Also included are our lightweight valve spring retainers that weigh half as much as our previous design. The valve seats are radiused and we've included valve stem seals to help keep the oil where it belongs.
To compliment the cylinder head design, we've incorporated a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474" intake and .510" exhaust valve lift. The combination makes 355 horsepower at 5250 rpm and has that great sounding muscle car idle, with just enough lope to let people know that this is no station wagon engine.
Also included with the ZZ4 is an HEI distributor with an ignition timing advance curve developed for performance, a dual plane aluminum intake manifold that accepts your spread bore or square bore carburetor, an 8" high-RPM torsional damper, 12.75" auto trans flex plate and cast iron water pump.
JUST A NOTE,I RESPECT ALL!!JUST MY PERSONAL OPINION!
Had this in my email, some folks seem to be a bit touchy about their engines...... Heck it's just an engine guys. Chill
i use to get the crap all the time about my goat having a big block chebby in it. but i do what i want and to hell with any one. i work on all engines but i like my chevys BUT i like cheap power and i think the chevy has that and really hold up good with out not much work BUT the best small block i would think is the ls1or6 and that is what i would put in it this would not be cheap but if you add it all up i think in the long run it would not be that much more if you buy a wreck or find a new ford muskrat that was hit try that:whacked:
:LOL: Ford muskrat,:whacked: ................Now that is funny:LOL: If u get down to it ,the metal is metal and the engines are not that much different at all.It does not matter whether the oil went around the block or over it ,if it did its job and made it where was needed...................but if they did not have ford or chevy marked on em what would we have a rivalry about ?Just like the Hatfields and McCoys ,:LOL: the name was good enuff for them to fight over ,ford and chevy are good enuff for me.:LOL:
Work with what you got guys. Sometimes we go by what's available at what price. Like me, I wanted a 289/302 for my 52. The best I could find was a 327 Chevy for $400 still in the crate. So, instead of a girly motor in a Ranger frame, I put the Chevy in an S-10 frame. Hell, I even looked at Mopar engines.
I SEE U DONT LIKE US CHEVY BOYS,
I AGREE THE 351 IS A OK MOTOR,,BUT MY ZZ4 IS MUCH BETTER..
What if it had a steel roller camshaft, four bolt main block, undercut rolled fillet crankshaft, high silicon pistons and strong PM connecting rods? We imagined it, and then engineered, developed, tested and built it. The ZZ4 is the evolution of our popular ZZ series of small blocks that power thousands of street rods, hot street cars, circle track racers and drag racers. With over 400 ft.lbs. of torque, the ZZ4 is the best way to put an aluminum head, roller cam, high performance small block between your favorite fenders.
The aluminum angle plug cylinder heads have screw in rocker studs, 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers that yield a crisp and responsive 10 to 1 compression ratio. Also included are our lightweight valve spring retainers that weigh half as much as our previous design. The valve seats are radiused and we've included valve stem seals to help keep the oil where it belongs.
To compliment the cylinder head design, we've incorporated a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474" intake and .510" exhaust valve lift. The combination makes 355 horsepower at 5250 rpm and has that great sounding muscle car idle, with just enough lope to let people know that this is no station wagon engine.
Also included with the ZZ4 is an HEI distributor with an ignition timing advance curve developed for performance, a dual plane aluminum intake manifold that accepts your spread bore or square bore carburetor, an 8" high-RPM torsional damper, 12.75" auto trans flex plate and cast iron water pump.
Which all sounds good for a dinosaur engine setup..... Might want to take a look at the 4.6 DOHC Ford engine. Add a ProCharger to this aluminum block, aluminum head, forged crank and rods little screamer and your easily sitting at 500 plus hp, and still drop it in 6th gear and get 25 plus mpg..... Engines with cams in the block and carbs on top are old technology.....
MY OPINION! ITHINK WE ARE ALL SPECIAL IN OUR OWN WAY ,,,WE ARE UNIQUE!Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Yeah its not station wagon engine ,it aint got enuff **) **) s to move a station wagon its your run of the mill sbc 350 something.Sounds like someone was "SOLD" on the advertisment spiel.Hydro matic,Automatic,its sytematic, why! why! why! its greased buyer!!!!!:LOL:
haha..i wish you could see her run,,,,,,she screams! zz4 is awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
haha..i wish you could see her run,,,,,,she screams! zz4 is awesome!Quote:
Originally Posted by shawnlee28
i think all engines can run great!if you just no how to hook them up,and build build them!!!most people put to much of a cam in it!I ASURE YOU MY S 10 TRUCK DONT HAVE A STATION WAGON ENGINE,, 375 HP WITH OVER 400 FT PD TORQUE,I THINK THATS ENUFF FOR MY LITTLE S 10 TRUCK!