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One thing we haven't clarified. Have you recently changed all 4 lamps to halogen? If so, you may be drawing too many amps for the breaker, which could be inside the h/l switch. You mentioned you changed that, but if it's not rated for the draw of four halogens then a new one would still have the same problem.
Yes, I did upgrade to halogen but when I saw I had a problem I changed back and it still did the same thing.Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Parmenter
Have you recently changed all 4 lamps to halogen?
Lynn
It could be that the springs on the breaker are worn out and can no longer hold the breaker closed.
I Would pull the headlight dimmer and use a toggle switch or something just to see if the headlights blink even without the dimmer.
OK, this is drawing on info from above, and a little Olds thrown in for fun, but have you tried holding down the switch to the high beams while someone watches from in front? If the lights continue to flicker/flash, you can rather safely assume its in the first half of the harness. If there is a noted change, bypass the switch for a few minutes, and run a amperage test. Excessive draw means you are grounding out on the frame in more than one spot. Give it a try, this helped on my Olds.
Okay, you guys are doing great! Don't stop now... Give me as much input as you can I will get this figured out this week.:HMMM:
Thank you for all the help so far, I know nothing about electrical and I appreciate your help! :)
Lynn
Hey, my headlights aren't working, it was a shot in the dark...:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by Streets
hehehe Lynn... AND YOU THINK WE DO???
hahaha
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Streets... :p ™
Lynn
The tech rep that visited my shop quite often to help us figure out any problems with new or sometimes older Mercury outboards preached and I mean preached GROUNDS!!!!....I bet I find over half of electrical problems on most anything are grounds...Poor grounds can cause all kinds of headaches...Relays....circuit breakers can go berserk without the right ground...fusible links...overload contacts...switches of all sorts...I remember the Fords from the late 40's and early 50's that had a starter button that was completing the ground circuit thru the dashboard to activate the solenoid which was the grounded base type ..The solenoid was mounted on the fender well and the ground would be lost between there and the body.We would put a spot weld between the fender well and body and PRESTO!!...Even the button would lose it's ground to the dash...