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I am having trouble with my high beam headlights. After they are on for a short while they slowly flash off and on.
Here is what I have tried…
Replaced headlights
Replaced headlight switch
Replaced dimmer switch
Replaced relay
Replaced fuses
Checked wiring
Checked ground – about 20 times
Any ideas???:confused:
Lynn
Totally and completely a guess. But could the charging system be having a hard time keeping up with the power demands of the added headlights...if it's at it's limit with them off...or something...
ps I'm obviously no mechanic ;)
I don't think so, not old Caddy stuff, I have a 454 Big Block Chevy in it and have not had any issues with power. I even put the old headlights back in to see if it was the new headlights. Nothing seems to work. :HMMM:Quote:
Originally posted by Gibble
Totally and completely a guess. But could the charging system be having a hard time keeping up with the power demands of the added headlights...
Lynn
Hi Lynn....Are your headlights flickering or flashing???.I prefer flashing myself....JUST KIDDING!!!!.......I didn't hear right..Is your car a Caddy??....A lot of them have auto -dimmers that go bad...Depends on the flash or flicker.....Al Phillips.....(how bout that name huh?)
Over what RPM range does this happen?
:confused: Unfortunately my 59 doesn't have the autotronic eye, just the dimmer on the floor. The fuse block is orig. and I haven't changed anything from the orig. way the Caddy wiring was set up for any of the lights.Quote:
Originally posted by Streets
The HIGH only beams flash on my T-Bucket because the Circuit breaker I use is a 20 and not the 30 that I should be using, the hi's take more juice to run, blow the breaker, then come back on only to blow again in a few seconds.. I usually don't use the high beams anyway thats why I haven't gotten around to changin' it yet.. You may have the same type of problem also with the fuze/block(s).....
Streets.. :p
I do like that Caddy auto dimmer's wearing out and shortin' scenerio tho...
This is driving me crazy, that is why I just keep replacing anything I think may be a weak link and now I am out of ideas.
Keep the ideas coming guys! ;)
Lynn
Doesn't matter, it happens when the car isn't even running...Quote:
Originally posted by 76GMC1500
Over what RPM range does this happen?
Slowly flashing off then on again. Yes it's a 59 Caddy with a 454 Big Block Chevy. It does not have the autotronic eye, didn't come with it, just the dimmer on the floor.Quote:
Originally posted by inlineidiot
I didn't hear right..Is your car a Caddy??....A lot of them have auto -dimmers that go bad...Depends on the flash or flicker.....Al Phillips.....(how bout that name huh?)
Lynn
No, dash lights are fine. The Caddy has 4 headlights and when I use high beams all of the headlights slowly flash on and off. If I just use low beams I am fine. I had two orig. headlight switches and had a Caddy guy check them out, he said they were both fine, but who knows. The old dimmer switch worked but I did replace it with a newer GM part to see if it would fix the problem.Quote:
Originally posted by mrmustang
Lynn,
Do any of the dash lights flicker, or is it just the high beams. What about the low beams, do they "pulse" when the car is parked, or at idle at a light? Sounds like a bad dimmer switch, or headlight switch. With some of the older Caddys, the aftermarket replacement peices are not wired to keep up with the constant draw of the headlights. Have seen this a few times over the years with Vintage Caddys.......
Bill S.
Thanks!
Lynn
Find a wiring diagram for your system, then re-read Streets post. You've got a breaker in the system that can't take the load anymore. Alternate fix is to wire a relay into the headlight circuit and have it run power direct when switched.
i suspect that it is the circuit breaker - it will not look like a circuit breaker in a house, it may be inline or most likely hiding around teh fuse box someplace.
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when the circuit load is greater than the rating of the breaker. If there is a short or any other type of overload in the circuit the excess current draw will open the circuit breaker, the breaker will automatically reset and if the problem is still present will open again. The breaker will continue this cycle until the problem is found and corrected, or due to the excessive cycling the breaker will become damaged and replacement of the breaker is then necessary. Never replace a circuit breaker with one of a higher (amps) rating! Doing this will also cause a lost of circuit protection and again a vehicle fire could be the result!
Thanks I will check it out, I did just buy the diagram too! I think at this point I might try the alternate fix. I guess I don't care why it won't take it anymore, I just want to get it to work and start on the next thing that needs to be done. It does have a relay and it wouldn't be hard to wire it direct. :)Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Parmenter
Find a wiring diagram for your system, then re-read Streets post. You've got a breaker in the system that can't take the load anymore. Alternate fix is to wire a relay into the headlight circuit and have it run power direct when switched.
All of my friends ran out of ideas and told me that my car was possessed...:eek:
Lynn
Did they use fusable links in 59?? I saw "relay" mentioned somewhere along in this thread, and it made me think of a fusable link that where used along with relays. I had an old Mopar way back when that constantly gave me problems with the fusable link in the ignition system.
Dean
Could it be in plug that hooks up the light switch? I have traced the wires and couldn't find anything.Quote:
Originally posted by screamer63_1979
i suspect that it is the circuit breaker - it will not look like a circuit breaker in a house, it may be inline or most likely hiding around teh fuse box someplace.
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when the circuit load is greater than the rating of the breaker.
This isn't mine but it is a photo of the same type of swith and plug.
http://i13.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/c8/cc/53_1.JPG
Lynn
If the relay is switching off and on that will also make the lights flash! It would also be clicking.
have no idea if that realy (or any relay) might have a breaker built into it...
One thing we haven't clarified. Have you recently changed all 4 lamps to halogen? If so, you may be drawing too many amps for the breaker, which could be inside the h/l switch. You mentioned you changed that, but if it's not rated for the draw of four halogens then a new one would still have the same problem.
Yes, I did upgrade to halogen but when I saw I had a problem I changed back and it still did the same thing.Quote:
Originally posted by Bob Parmenter
Have you recently changed all 4 lamps to halogen?
Lynn
It could be that the springs on the breaker are worn out and can no longer hold the breaker closed.
I Would pull the headlight dimmer and use a toggle switch or something just to see if the headlights blink even without the dimmer.
OK, this is drawing on info from above, and a little Olds thrown in for fun, but have you tried holding down the switch to the high beams while someone watches from in front? If the lights continue to flicker/flash, you can rather safely assume its in the first half of the harness. If there is a noted change, bypass the switch for a few minutes, and run a amperage test. Excessive draw means you are grounding out on the frame in more than one spot. Give it a try, this helped on my Olds.
Okay, you guys are doing great! Don't stop now... Give me as much input as you can I will get this figured out this week.:HMMM:
Thank you for all the help so far, I know nothing about electrical and I appreciate your help! :)
Lynn
Hey, my headlights aren't working, it was a shot in the dark...:rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by Streets
hehehe Lynn... AND YOU THINK WE DO???
hahaha
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Streets... :p ™
Lynn
The tech rep that visited my shop quite often to help us figure out any problems with new or sometimes older Mercury outboards preached and I mean preached GROUNDS!!!!....I bet I find over half of electrical problems on most anything are grounds...Poor grounds can cause all kinds of headaches...Relays....circuit breakers can go berserk without the right ground...fusible links...overload contacts...switches of all sorts...I remember the Fords from the late 40's and early 50's that had a starter button that was completing the ground circuit thru the dashboard to activate the solenoid which was the grounded base type ..The solenoid was mounted on the fender well and the ground would be lost between there and the body.We would put a spot weld between the fender well and body and PRESTO!!...Even the button would lose it's ground to the dash...