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I was mounting the starter (powermaster 9000) to the block of my 350 motor and ran into a problem.. the gear of the starter should have 1/16" clearance from the flywheel, but when I mounted mine it was engaged 1/8". I added the shims to the housing and it is now engaged only 1/16". I've included a photo for reference. Anyone have an idea on how I can correct this?:CRY:
I've been mounting and remounting it for 3 days now... Any advice would be be welcome!!!!
Thanks in advance !!!
Looks like it isn't retracted all the way or that may be wrong starter .
Was your engine a running one before the starter swap? If so, how did it work with the previous starter, and did the gear retract to afford you clearance?
Don
It's not going to work correctly unless the gear is retracted all the way out from the flywheel. Doesn't look like the mounting holes are in the correct location.... I'm with Bob, looks like the wrong starter.
I was thinking the same thing... wrong starter. The starter that I'm trying to mount came in the box with the car (as well as a ton of other new parts) and the number comes back to what recommended for this small block . No starter was mounted on the block when I got it, so I have no point of reference. I'm just hoping that the fly wheel isn't mounted incorrectly :eek:
One last thing, the gear not being retracted all the way was brought up by a buddy of mine too, I extended it with a screwdriver to see clearance in the other direction, if hooked up to a battery does anyone think it would make a difference? Thanks again for the advice!
take the starter apart mark it to go back together the same way you have the solenoid clock at. the the drive is press in the alum mounting block so bolt that part back on the block so you can test fit it and push it in and out by hand this makes working on it easer there is been some of this type of starters i have had to mill the alum mount block to get the air gap down from fly wheel to drive and have had to shim the starter just on one side to rock in to the wheel or out of the wheel this can be done by cutting a shim in 1/2 and if you want the drive in the fly wheel more then there is a round shim that sit in the alum mount block were the drive is push in to this will add more gear drive in to the wheel or less with no shim
nice photo .denny :3dSMILE:
I see what you guys are saying but it seems to be more of a an issue that it needs to move rearward to clear the fly wheel. Thanks for the input. I'm going to try a different starter, then I'll look closer at the fly wheel. Thanks again !
By the way Denny, that is the starter I'm working with and the shim kit... but it still doesn't seem to work out (square peg.. ya know?)
I called Powermaster for you, and spoke to a nice guy named John there. He had me send him a link to this thread, and he says he will post an answer for you. He said the gear should be retracted all the way, not out like yours, but that is a preliminary observation. He may know more when he sees the thread.
I'm ordering the same starter, so I want to know also. :)
Don
Hi guys John Brady from Powermaster here. I am the senior tech for them and this an unusual situation here. The gear looks to be retracted all the way from the picture. What I would suggest is the check the distance from the centerline of the mounting holes to the engine side of the ring gear. It should be 15/16 of an inch. To get an accurate measurement take a straight edge and lay it across the centerline of the starter mounting bolt holes in the engine block. Then take a ruler or tape measure and measure to the engine side of the ring gear. By the looks of the converter and flexplate it may be a situation where the converter is not seated in the trans all the way or the flexplate is on backwards. To check for the converter being seated all the way, take out the converter bolts and you should be able to "slide" the converter back into the trans about 1/4 to 3/8 inch leaving an air gap between the converter and flex plate. If you take the bolts out and the converter will not slide back in and you cannot spin the converter freely it is more than likely not seated and is pushing the flexplate forward into the starter. To have a starter that far engaged at rest and not have a flexplate/converter issue is HIGHLY unlikely.
Now there's a company I would buy a starter from. Thanks for keeping your word John.
Don
Could the flywheel have been put on backwards and the spacing be wrong???? Not a chebbie guy, just thinking of other possibilities.
You know how sometimes you have to give the convertor a little turn and get it to pop down into the tranny? Maybe it is not seated, and when the bellhousing was torqued it deformed the flexplate forward.
Or, maybe it is on backwards, like you said.
Don
WOW:whacked:
First of all, I want to thank everyone for thier input. This forum is an incredible resource for a newbie like me. I catch on pretty quick, but without the knowledge you all are willing to share, it could be a maddening hobbie. :3dSMILE:
As for John from Powermaster.. a HUGE Kudos to you and your company! :cool:
Well, I have got alot of things to look into and I'll update yuo all when I make some headway..
Thanks again!!!:D