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I'm using a clark 130EN MIG no gas welder and have been trying to weld cracked 40 ford running boards. I've used this welder many times but I'm having a problem with warping. I'm using .035 wire at a medium wire speed. The problem is when I'm about 3/4 done the metal is warped to a point where I cannot finish the job as there is to much of a gap left. I'm spot welding at first but it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions.
Do the spots and tacks, then when you are welding use a stitch method. Any sort of continuous weld will warp the panels.... I usually do a stitch on each tack, then lay the welder down for 10 minutes or so, then repeat the process. Makes for a long project, but beats the heck out of warping everything. They used to sell a product called "Moistbestos", but as the name suggests it had asbestos in it and has been banned. You surrounded the area to weld with it, and it absorbed a lot of the heat and prevented it from distorting the panel. I really prefer a tig for repairs, but if you don't have one you gotta make do by adjusting your method of welding.
Thanks Dave. Will give that a try.
That's how I avoid warping, just weld a little on one end then a little on the other until they meet. I also pull back after each little weld to let it cool.Hey Dave, I saw a product in a catalog not long ago that does the same thing the "moistbestos" does, but it's safe. I think it might have been in the Eastwood catalog, I'll see if I can find it!
I found it. It's called cold shield thermal paste. You can get it at the eastwood company for 20 bucks a can.
Daves tip on leaving the thing alone for a while in between welds is the best tip. DO NOT cool the welds with a wet rag or something like that! That is a BIG MISTAKE and very common. It is not simply "cooling" the weld, it is SHRINKING the metal! Now that will cause warping!
Nope, the simple trick is as Dave pointed out, tack it along the line, then WALK AWAY. Do something else on the car (I'll bet you have a couple of other things you could work on. :) ) and then come back and weld a couple of quarter inch or so beads on each ends of the seam or one in the middle and one on an end, then LEAVE IT ALONE until you can come back and rest your hand on the weld and feel next to no heat (or nothing, it won't hurt to wait even longer).
By the way, the .035 is a little big. I welded for years with .035 so it does work. But it is carrying more amps, thus a hotter weld. Change to .023 (Which will mean a change in the drive wheel and tip) and you can turn the heat much lower than you have now.
Brian
I think .035 is the smallest flux-core wire available. You did say it's a no-gas welder. I have a Lincoln and it works well, using the "weld a bit, drink (insert fave beverage here) a bit" method as described above. (I drink tea, by the way.)
i weld with i bit thicker wire i do is alot just lazy ? but it works better for me . i like to butt up my patch panels.and not over lap this lets me work the weld with a hammer and dolly if needed the better the fit up the better the repair . if i have to weld up holes bigger then 1/4 or so i make up plugs out of steel if . i like to use the mig and set it up for tack welds i like the tacks about 1/8 big or so around. i hop a round alot just tacking the panel in. i get the tack welds about 1/2 in space or less still hopping around and keep it cool then i grind the top off the welds down . this keeps from a cold weld a pile up. when you start and stop then i go and weld about 1/2 of the space up between the tacks welds still hopping around never welding more then the 1/2 in one spot. keeping the panel cool and then grind welds flat i never grind much down at one time. this will put heat into the repair to . i use the grinding wheel to knock the weld down . i think put less heat in the panel then a sanding disc the paper will brake down and you will be rubbing more to take the weld down putting more heat on the repair when all welds are a most level i use sanding disc keeping the disc speed down so not to over speed the disc and knocking the grit off that will put more heat in the job and keep the disc sharp
woah, some punctuation would have been useful there.
Oh yeah, sorry, I didn't catch that it was flux core. All I can say is GET ON THE GAS!!! Flux core is for welding bridges and fences, you really need to move up to gas.Quote:
Originally Posted by R Pope
Brian