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Cheap backer for welding holes is to take a piece of copper pipe, like 1/2 or 3/4, then flatten one end and bend an angle to suit. The tube will remain relatively cool so you can just hold it in place while using the mig to weld the hole closed. More grinding...
Thanks for the tip. Problem is reaching around the dash and welding on the firewall is a long reach. I like the idea of using a long copper pipe. I have one or two lying around!:D
Worked on patching 40 plus small holes today. I decided to do a little research to see if I could find plugs for the hole, as my welding skills suck so the least amount of welding is better for the finished look in my case!:eek:
I found these plastic plugs at Ace hardware and they were great for filling the small holes. I lined each hole with black silicone gasket seal to help keep them in place and plug air leaks better. In all I think it worked out great, saved lots of time, and left only a few big holes to fill. Best part is I can always pop the out and use the holes for whatever whenever.
Here are a few shots. They came out looking like rivets!:D
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ovens/plug.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...vens/plug1.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...vens/plug2.jpg
Should work fine, if your not going for the glossy paint, buffed and shined look on the firewall and fenderwells those little plugs will work fine and be a huge time saver!!!!!
Steve, sometimes guys will use knock out plugs from electrical boxes if the holes are close.
The motor looks really good. Would you be interested in a trade for a slightly worn flathead that needs pushing to start but after that it runs great? It would be a more period correct motor for the truck. Just kidding I would have to have little cash for the trade.:) You’re doing great, glad someone is making progress. I guess in my case you’re never too old to get sc-ewed :confused: I could put up with the body but when they won’t start it’s another story.:eek:
Richard
Richard - a flat head would have been cool. But alas I'm into the 460 now!:D
Today I welded up the holes in the firewall with small metal plates. I putty filled the front side and gave it a quick sand before the sun went down. I then hit it with a coat of flat black to see how well it looked. I'll be doing a little touch up but not a lot. It's not a show car, and the firewall is far from perfect. I saw a guy selling diamond plate cutouts that roughly fit the opening. I may try the same when I'm done. I also frankensteined in a patch plate to my passenger floor panel. the flat piece that was there flexed too much, so I welded a piece I had off a donor car with beads stamped in the metal. It isn't pretty by any means, but it sure shores up the floor. Finally I taped threads into my timing cover for the timing pointer, and started to install the new harmonic balancer. I got it on to about a half inch of where it needs to go but it doesn't want to go further, and instead of fighting it, I took the night off!:D
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...rewall2002.jpg
Steve, you’re doing a good job. In my opinion a driver is more fun. I had show cars, and I was always being watchful full that they get scratched or fingerprints!!:HMMM:
I thought I had a driver now but so far it's a pusher.:CRY:
Keep up the good work; just don't make it too nice.:)
Richard
Thanks Richard. As my wife says, " Perfection is the enemy of good enough!":LOL:
Steve,
You are doing great! You are going to have a real fun truck when you are done.
Get a bigger hammer for your balancer :LOL: :LOL:
Ken
I've contiplated hammering it Ken!:) That's why I stopped for the night. My torque wrench hit 90 pounds and the block started to spin on the stand!:HMMM:
I'll probably back it off tomorrow with a puller, unless some one has a better idea?
Well
I got to the bottom of the harmonic balancer today. The new bolt I bought from summit wasn't the right length, so I put the stock original back in, with no problems. I touched up the firewall with some topping compound and the sanded 80, 120, 220, 400. and repainted looked better than above. Spent the other part of the day repairing the hot tub, dryer etc.. to the point of everything is working for the moment.:LOL:
Today I was trying to arrest any further rust for the winter by hiting everything with a coat of primer. I also started to reassemble the front end with the new grill and lower valence piece. It looks alot better, but will eventually have to be stripped off and prepped right!:confused:
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ns/primed2.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ns/primed1.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ns/primed3.jpg
Finally made a decission on the gauges today. Bought a three gauge insert for the truck on ebay, and a set of Auto meter old tyme white gauges. I wasn't impressed with the stuff I was reading about Dolphin gauges, though they were much cheaper, and I hate the stupid dolphin on their gauges!
So for lact of anything better to post here are some shots of the gauges and the insert. The gauge set came with a GM style speedo pulse sensor, so I had to shell out some more bucks for the Ford version, so you GM guys, p.m. me if you are interested in the g.m. one! I decided also to go with the electronic speedo, to make it easier to calibrate the speedo.(I hope it's easy!):eek:
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ens/a44e_1.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atm-1612_w.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atm-1680_w.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atm-1694_w.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atm-1600_w.jpg
Great thread Steve. I have been following you along. Nice guages. I agree about the (stupid) dolphins, WHY? I do like Auto-Meter guages. Keep up the good work. Perley:)
Thanks Perley.:)
I figured the electrics on the auto meter are tried and true, plus summit sells them and backs them with a great return policy. I also like the cleaner look of the Auto meter set.