If that's true Dave this is going to be one fast engine! :) Here's a shot of the grill I picked up.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0004-5.jpg
Printable View
If that's true Dave this is going to be one fast engine! :) Here's a shot of the grill I picked up.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0004-5.jpg
Good looking grille, nice find!!!!!
Thanks. I went to a swap meet last weekend, and was flat broke. I spotted it there and asked the guy if he still has it come this friday/payday, was he local? He said yes and yes. He also has an original 48 bed complete with wood subfloor and steel bottom. Not sure what to sell it for, until he finds out what his son bought it for. He son died recently after completing a 52 F1 truck, so this is all spare parts. His grand son is now driving the F1. Nice family with many cool projects.
Bummer that the guy had to die, but at least his son has the truck and will remember his Dad every time he drives it!
Yep. He seemed like a real nice guy. Had a couple of 60's Mustang Fastbacks, a 34 3 window, and a late fifties/60 Ranchero. Nice stuff, oh a a 48 Ford panel van!
Well had a few easy things I got done today. When I first put together the engine top half, I wasn't sure about painting around the engine where the intake manifold attaches. So I scrapped the cosmoline like stuff, that the long block guys put on there, off, and never painted it. Over time a light rust in the exposed parts has settled in. So I cleaned that off today, and carefully painted between it and the manifold, with some gloss black engine paint. Figured while I was at it, I'd spray the harmonic balancer, so I wire wheeled the grime of, cleaned it up, gave it a coat of rustoleum primer to get anything I missed, and then hit it with several coats of black too. Next will have to work some white into the timing marks to make it easier to see.
Aside from that installed a new serpentine belt in the MR2 Spyder. Was told by Toyota, that it needed a new belt as the old one had cracks, and they could do it for 221.00. Sounded a bit expensive, took car home, looked it up online since I don't have a manual for it, and found out it has a shock absorber tensioner, that makes replacing it very easy. Litteraly a 15 second job! So I replaced that too. A good day!
Lastly put the final coat of semi gloss verithane on a side board I picked up, made mostly out of oak, and laminate. So hopefully, the side board will come into the house out of the garage tomorrow, and then I'dd be able to put the engine mounts back into the truck, and have garage space to push it back into the garage, before the rainy Season starts up again. Once the engine is back in, then the hood can go back on, the sideboards can be mounted and I can finally clear out some space for other projects!
Sounds like your getting serious about this thing again! Good for you. Wish I'd get a fire under my hind side and hit the Essex again. Perley
Thanks Perley. Just need time and then able to hit the stuff in order of priority and expense. At this point it's mostly getting other higher priority stuff done to free time for truck!
Working on the window channel today. Spent about 4 hours looking for tools during the week, including an electric cutoff wheel. I have a pneumatic one, but I didn't want to listen to ringing in my ears for a few days just to cut some thick stock sheet metal! The electric works much the same as the pneumatic one! You can cut for about a minute, then it flips an internal breaker, which makes you stop, to hit the reset switch! On the pneumatic, it runs about a minute until it exhausts the air in my small compressor, then takes a minute for the compressor to catch up! Thank god I don't do this for a living! :)
Anyway, managed to get some pieces cut, and will work on the welding patches today. I never boxed the frame, but have some reinforcing cross members here and there. The problem is too many pieces will be inaccessable once boxed, and the frame itself, is wider at the bottom rail, then the top. My plan all along was to box in big sections where I could, and leave cut outs where needed! So today, I think I may start this process welding a plate back towards the bed where I need a vertical inside surface near the fuel tank to mount my fuel filter. I figure it will be safer behind me, than in the engine compartment on the firewall! Nothing like working backwards on a project!
Sounds like things are moving along. Keep grinding away... literally!;)
Boy it would be nice if they offered welding classes around here with times that didn't coincide with work!
After all day yesterday, cuting, grinding, welding it looks worse but I beieve it's better! There were two areas of the window channel with rusted through holes. One unfortunately is right underneith the drivers side windshield motor mount, so I was limited in what I could weld as a backing plate from the underside, but I think if I use some fiberglass inforced bondo with the plate under there as support it should be alright. The othere side I was able to get some substancial metal under the thin rusted sheet metal at get some good adhesion to solid metal. It looks like somebody gave Frankenstein a welder and grinder, but body filer will hide that. Today I have to do some volunteer work but hope to get an hour or two to work on it afterwards. Then I have the whole week to get the motor back in! All in all things still going as planned but slower than planned! :)
Was wondering if anyone has a unilite distributer, and if they have ever removed or replaced the light module? I figure I've got quite a bit of welding to do on the frame, and t would be nice to remove the module(welding can ruin it if it's in the car while you weld on it) while welding, then put it back when done. I haven't played much with it other than the installing of the distributer.
Some repair photos of the holes in window channel and the repair and patches, will need a little more work, but good for now. Also worked on fuel backing plate for frame above transaxle, but no welding yet. Olives arrived by mail, and others picked from our small tree, so, olive curing also done, two styles, one natural curing with brine and vinegar and the other lye cured. Put up about 23 lbs this year.
before patch
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0001-4.jpg
after
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0003-8.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0005-4.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0006-6.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...DSC_0007-3.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c..._0001_01-2.jpg
Got the truck into the barn, and manged to wrestle the engine in for a dry fit for header clearance and frame clearance. Fit pretty good, will need to shave some metal off front cross member, but no big amount for crank pully clearance.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps71463113.jpg
Here is shot of header collector and the space needed to fit between motor mount and steering box.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps9650fb1f.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psdc50201c.jpg
and lastly the amount I had to move the engine foward. If I'm lucky the drive line still may not to be lengthend
just need to move tranny mount foward a inch.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psf1c05690.jpg
All in all a good afternoon after some heavy duty physical therapy to left knee. The therapist thought I was crazy to be doing this by myself, but I told him the cherry picker does all the lifting, the worst part was pushing that heavy old truck up into the garage bay!
Keep up the good work!
I'm not sure of your setup Roger but, are you going to use all those pulleys? Perhaps you don't need them all and could shorten the motor that way?
Just thinking out loud here... but maybe??
Thanks, It's just one pully on the crank with multiple belt grooves, but unfortunately the farthest out is the one we use!
After looking at old photos of the belt and pulley arrangement it turns out that I use the second groove on the pulleys. I found a pulley set for the crank, alt. and the water pump. The problem is they only sell it either in a Underdrive Ratio (88%), or HF High Flow Ratio (1:1) , and I'm not sure which I want. I have a high flow water pump already on there, and don't know what underdriving88% would do to water pump or alternator, vs. the 1:1 high flow setup? Help? Thanks.
Think I answered own question by reading what march pwerformance had to say. Ended up going with underdrive ratio, as I don't have huge electrical needs and water pump already high flow so should be o.k.
Went with a cvf billet pulley set for the 460. Same company as my alternator bracket so all should be good for fit!
Underdriven pulleys on a BBF seem to work great, use them on the street and racing with no problem. They hold so much water in the block and heads, with a hi-flow pump, underdriven pulleys, and a good radiator and shroud it should cool fine!!!!! I think you'll be quite content with your pulley selection!
So does that mean you might not have to cut & weld the cross member? I hope so as it's costing you some money... I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya'! :LOL::)Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Thanks Dave, nice to hear that, I have a custom built raiator for it so I should be ok.
34_40 - Yeah after reading your comments, I went back and sure enough don't need the big pulley, plus with the new setup, everything matches as well as gives me more than an inch clearance, so no cutting yet, until the new pulleys arrive and can test fit for clearance! Thanks again for the advice!
That is good news, good for you Randy! Plus it'll look neat and clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Thanks, my thoughts exactly, but call me Steve! :)
Roger that Steve! I'm glad I didn't call you Pat! rofl....Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
LOL :) :3dSMILE:
Fixed Mountain bike today while awaiting parts, have to say it was fun cleaning up the old bike, and putting new tires on her, as well as a nice bottle of red ale, and a good friend to share it with!
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...pscccbe22b.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psdb24e978.jpg
and with new tires installed, I guess the 1991 ones were a bit old!
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps4b93d417.jpg
Where does the engine go????????????:confused::confused::confused:
behind the front seats! Talk about weight distribution!!! LOL..
Naw just hook Pretzel up, he will pull yah where you need to go, one dog power!
Worked on moving the fuel filter back by the tank today, figure I'll tackle all the stuff that will impede getting the engine in, once the pulleys arrive. So I carefully welded a mounting plate to the frame(since it's fairly close to the gas tank, and then replumbed from there. Looks a little like spagetti with the transaxle breather hose, brake lines and fuel line. Decided to put the gas shut off valve before the fuel filter to make changing filter, and cleaning easier(thanks whoever gave me that idea a while ago! Pretty pleased with placement, clears drive line enough not to worry about hiting the axle with the fuel filter, and enough height clearance to get at filter with allen wrench.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps929f3783.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps7586561d.jpg
That ought to work! Always nice to have the fuel system components near the tank, makes servicing things a lot easier!
Well I got back from a week in Vermont(what a beautiful state)and went back to work this week. Knee held up well to the concrete floors at the hospital! In the mean time, my pulley set arrived and should work nicely. I ordered a new shifter after lots of thoughts about how much space the B&M cable shifter was taking up. I went with a Lokar 23" Nostalgia transmission mount with linkage setup. I think the 23" height of the shifter handle will be just about right with the stock seat setup. I got a double bend shifter shaft, so hopefully the knob won't end up in someones lap! I think that this set up gives me enough front to back alignment choices that it should work with the cab and fit in where I want it. It takes up relatively little floor space so a third person should fit in the cab now. And lastly, I am hoping adjusting it from park to drive to neutral and reverse will be easier than the cable shifter, which just never seemed to work in all of the gear choices, so if anyone has a c-6 and wants a B&M truck cable shifter, let me know, I'd be willing to practically give it away knowing it was going to good use for someone. A friend is down for the weekend so many I can entice him to help fit the motor in, and weld in the mounts. Then it will be time to play with the tranny! :)
Wish your Vermont trip was a couple weeks earlier! IC2 and I would've been glad to hang out with you at the NSRA show and we could've helped you around the fairgrounds.. :LOL: Good to hear your parts have arrived and am excited for you in getting them in there...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Thanks. Spent the last three hours finessing the engine and mounts around with the header clearance on driver side to clear steering box and pulley clearance in front to avoid cross member. I think it's close enough right now that I can tack weld in place and then pull engine and bolt and weld in place permanantly. Just have to read back on the right pitch angle of the engine measured from on top of the intake manifold.
Right now the engine is at about 4-5 degrees sloped back towards the fire wall. Will try and finess it to 2-3.
Well I got the mounts spotwelded and bolted in place, pulled the engine out and cleaned up. Now have to get everything fully mounted and pray it all works. Agood day. One step closer!
That is what it takes.. one day / one step at a time. Keep up the good work!
hate to say this to you but that fuel filter should be moved if truck is not finish by the time its done truck can drop a 1 inch or more .then a full tank of gas .bed floor . driver etc...wheel hop . spring whined up and its not hard to see 3 inch s of travel get lost fast you could flip the bracket that will get you a 1 inch abit more but over the axle is a bad spot
Thank s guy. Pat the leaf springs on there right now are old, but new stronger springs are waiting to go on. Also the picture doesn't show the clearance well, but it is significant enough to prevent it from bottoming out. I will keep an eye on it, encase I'm wrong(i.e. I appreciate your alert!)
Steve,
Not trying to jump on you at all but two things jumped out at me from your picture. First, I agree with Pat that directly above the axle is not a good place for that fuel filter, regardless how much clearance you think you have to spare. An unexpected trip through a ditch or over a curb at speed might change a bumpy ride into an inferno - not a happy thought. Second, your shocks seem to be leaned forward a bunch! I know that someone posted a neat link about how the angles affect response, but absent that I found this little table that seems to be about right:
Attachment 56233
In your discussion on tacking your motor mounts, do you have your engine and tranny bolted together as a unit so you can set your drive line angle and deal with all clearances at once? I would think it would be a lot easier to triangulate supports with the pieces joined, allowing you to establish not only the motor mount locations, but the tranny cross member, too, all with the chassis at ride height?
I hear what you and Pat are saying. Worth a few minutes to relocate vs. problems down the line. The shock angles are stock but will change when I put on the new shock mounting plates, the tranny is going to be almost the the exact same angle as before, though I will have to extend the rear support about an inch. My biggest fear is the steep incline of the rear differential. It slopes down quite a bit in relation to the leaf spring perches. A few people have said not to worry about this, but it seems a bit exagerated of an angle downward. I have a friend who is a mechanic, that will give it a looksy before I put on the new rear leaf springs. Thanks again Pat and Roger. It's nice to have people keep an eye out for those of us new to this rodeo!
