:) axle! Cut the mounts because they were off a 68 ford econoline van just don't match the same position for the old 48. needed to move over for about 3 inches.
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:) axle! Cut the mounts because they were off a 68 ford econoline van just don't match the same position for the old 48. needed to move over for about 3 inches.
Finished welding on the shock mounts and installed new shocks, now everything just needs some paint! The bright blue stands out just a little :)
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Perty!!! 8-)
What's next?
Ahhh...the smell of fresh paint in the morning...smells like victory!! Stay on the offensive Steve.
Now time to reinstall the fuel filter along the frame out of the way, and drop the engine back in. Then reattach the transmission, and modify the transmission cross member to accommodate it being an inch forward. Cut a hole in the floor boards to mount the new Lokar shifter, rewire everything, and work on the dash a bit. That should keep me busy this winter! Not to mention reinforcing the frame in the rear with a new 4"x 1.5" beam 33" wide to tie the back of the bed and frame rails together.
have you considered just putting the fuel filter up on the engine like they used to be instead of along the frame??????????
Jerry I actually had a dream about that last night. That big old filter is bulky and a pain. an inline one would work a lot easier, and since the lines, tank and carb are all new there shouldn't be a lot of junk to worry about! Any suggestions on filters?
wix/fram????????
I'm not Jerry, but I would use either a Wix or K&N
What they said... WIX! 8-)
Thanks for the tips on filters, before I had a chance to read everyone's response I bought a edelbrock one that works with my carb, no big deal, but it looks a lot like the wix inline filter for more money than the wix!
Had some more progress on frame here is a before and after shot of the rear frame support. I think the new one is much more beefy. I took these shots before welding in the new cross member.
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After welding, with shocks painted black
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Got a little more time in on the truck today. I'm thinking maybe I should add yet another cross member to tighten the frame up. Any thoughts?
Here are some wet paint shots, used a flat black to hide all of the imperfections!
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I'm thinking like a ladder setup in front of where the gas tank mounts.
I would! Do you have the material already?
No material yet, but local steel scrap yard has different rectangular stock. The rear piece was a 1.5"x4" by 38 inch scrap that cost about 16 bucks. I'm sure there are more similar sized scrap to be found there, so I'd start with what is available.
That sounds like a good place to start!
Got the gas tank remounted and decided not to add further structural support at this time, do to access space and differential clearance. As I was measuring up the tank clearance for a new crossmember. I found the frame rails to be about a 16th of inch closer together than they were, before I added the rear frame member. Since the gas tank clearance was tight, I ground off some of the lower frame member to get the gas tank to fit back where it was before. After bolting it in, I figured it gives a lot of sheer wall support since it bolts two four separate areas on each side of the frame. I figure that must add some strength to the frame as well a relief shear spot should I get hit from behind. So for now no more frame members even after getting a scrap pierce of 2"x 4", 6.5 feet long foe additional support. I figure I can always add latter on if needed.
The gas tank has some beefy mounting plates which are about 1/4 inch thick. I figure there must be a lot of support there.
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Big progress today got the motor dropped back in the truck and more importantly created some wiggle room in the garage. I'm afraid my quest to get my wood shop is taking over my free space for the Harley and the truck. Need to clear out some of the junk we'll never use, and reorganize the space so everybody gets along! Anyway I met my goal of getting it in by December, now to get the tranny hooked up, replumb the gas, and water lines and fire the beast back up! I have a friend with a long vacation coming this way over the holidays, so maybe the two of us can bang out all of the above. He helped me the first time I put the engine in, and missed the start up by one day! So we'll see if we can improve upon that! My transmission jack AKA harley jack got stuck today, but has done a great job in the past getting the transmission where it needs to be! Who says you can't improvise!
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Looking Good Steve! Hey, how about a pic of that black & gold fender cover? I don't think I've seen that one before... HMmm... LOL..
Getting close, Steve! Truck looks good!
Looking great, Steve!
Well got the transmission reconnected to engine, and then modified the already modified transmission mount to fit the moved foward tranny bolts and still clear the brake booster, etc.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps9ea6a2b7.jpg
With transmission bolted in, got some stuff done on engine, mounter carb, adjusted and put in new belt to fit my new under-driven pulley, which was necessary for engine clearance. The guy's at Napa were a big help getting the right size belt only took three trips!the phots show various stuff going back on, and the pulley clearance from the cross member.
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Good Progress Steve! Thanks for the photos too..
Well after two full days hitting it hard, was able to reconnect all the transmission fluid and vacuum lines, rewire the engine, reinstalled new belt and pulley set, reinstalled the radiator, put the headers in, replumbed the fuel lines and reinstalled the carb. Went to fire it up around dinner, but had some gas line issues, now solved, let the truck sit, ate pizza, came back out turned the key, pumped the gas and boom! She runs and idles again, the 460 is breathing life after over a year of frame mods, ect. It was a great feeling. Next I will wire the charging system, and then mount the Lokar Nostalgia shifter, which mounts directly to the transmission, so I will be cutting out the floor pan, and reshapiing the hump over the transmission, to give me more floor space for my size 11 feet, not to mention shoring up some underfloor support. All in all a great weekend, with lots of help from my high school buddy Andre (30 years after High School!)
That's good progress Steve! Sounds like a good buddy too!!!
First fire is an exciting time, no matter how many times you've turned a key/pushed a button. That "new life", often with thundering exhaust that has neighbors giving that "What the heck??" look is priceless!! Driving in the Spring?
34-40 and Roger thanks, and my thoughts exactly, as the beast roared to life with just headers, amplified by the garage doors being open, I thought it best to shut it down quick, as I actually like my neighbors and want to stay on good terms!:)
Here is a startup video, had a hard time filming and keeping idle up!
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Congrats Steve, good to hear the big block running!!!!!
Managed to fix my carb linkage and the transmission kick down linkage. I was greatfull for whoever it was who posted cutting braided stainless hose with a chisel and a block of soft metal(aluminium) Was quick and clean, now the cables are the right length for their placement.
I think next is the floor tunnel and the transmission linkage. Could use some info on rivets for the floor sheet metal. Never seen or used rivets before.
Today I cut the tunnel that was existing to make room for the Lokar Nostalgia shifter, and to reform to get some foot space back. I took a bunch of photos to ask several questions from you guys. the first few are just before and after shots of taking the old B&M truck shifter out and the amount of room I actually have under the old tunnel.
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The next question is what are these staples doing in my fender sheet metal and what are they for. I have no idea how anyone could staple sheet metal, so I'm guessing old Henry Ford welded these on for the fender welting? Just not sure how it attaches to the staples? Anyone have a clew? Will need to know before paint goes on.
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Here is a shot of the aluminium pulleys that I used to get engine room in the engine bay, definately prettier than stock.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps66c2f783.jpg
Thanks for all the pics Steve. Looks like you can gain a lot of foot room by re-working the floor. Regarding the staples, I would think your assumption is correct, but perhaps they held the welting before the fenders were even in place, so rather than welded on, the staples fit into holes in the fender and through the welting and are crimped underneath..??..?? Just a guess!
The wierd thing about the staples is the don't go thru the steel fender, not sure how you use them on the welting?
No explanation, but see the comments by 49fordv8f4 on the early fords site. He discusses staples in several posts. Wondering if you might not find the story in the vintage restoration arena, like maybe a tech guy at Mac's or another supplier? EFV-8 Club Forum - 48-52 truck fender to cowl seal