Sounds like the count down to VROOOM-VROOOM has begun!!!!! Someday I'm gonna get one of mine close enough to done to actually think about starting it up!!!!!:rolleyes:
Printable View
Sounds like the count down to VROOOM-VROOOM has begun!!!!! Someday I'm gonna get one of mine close enough to done to actually think about starting it up!!!!!:rolleyes:
Yep, hopefully some of the details I'm leaving out won't be stumbling ones! Like installing the distributor!:eek::LOL:
Finished wiring in battery, connecting block to frame grounds, and completing ignition circuit today, turned key and nothing! Two possibilities immediately came to mind, number one the neutral start switch may(probably is bad) and two, grounds aren't cleaned enough to bare metal although the only spot I couldn't see was where the frame wire connects to the block under the alternator. Used emery cloth to sand, but may be coated with paint. Not too many other reasons unless battery is dead(hooked up to charger and said good but who knows?) So I decided to consult a bottle of beer and call it quits for today. Will give it a fresh start next year, uh... tomorrow.
I know what ya mean Steve, quit a bit early myself!!! I had to though, I got a late start today and had to make up for it by leaving early!:whacked:
Hmmm,that sounds like cabin fever setting in..snow bothering you a bit Dave???Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Rather you than me..I like it where it is,top of the mountain,half an hours drive..:LOL::LOL:
Sounds good Steve,rumbling big block on the menu,for ya neighbors..:D
Spent most of today working on the truck. I quickly found the wiring issue was indeed a bad neutral start switch. The wiring at this point is pretty basic and straight foward so I figured it was that or the grounds. I was stymied by the amount of time it took to install the distributer. hand cranking the engine to get to top dead center, and then placing the distributor which doesn't drop all the way due to the oil drive shaft is frustrating to say the least. But eventually it dropped in right and is roughly in the right place. After that it took a fair amount of time just assembling the Taylor wires! So with some regret we left off there for tonight, and tomorrow will involve a trip to the gas station for fresh gas in the new tank, fluids to tranny and radiator, and hopefully no leaks. Getting close.
Yeehaaa,kick er in the guts Trev...:DQuote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Video please...:D
Wha hoooooo! Not only started but this is how it sounds!:D:D:D:3dSMILE::cool::toocool::p:)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ckstart004.jpg
Should have added no leaks either. I wasn't sure if the raiator, or tranny may develop leaks, not to mention the fuel system! Took a while to put in my fuel assending unit, which delayed the overall startup by a few hours. One of the bolts that holds the assending unit down broke off while bolting it on, so I had to drill it out, used a screw extractor, but just ate the whole thing vs. backing it out. Will have to put a helicoil or tap to a bigger thread size for that hole, but not a huge deal. I was relieved no gas leaked out when I filled it. :whacked:
Broke in cam today per manufacturer of longblocks warranty instructions. Found a small gas leak from brass nipple in tank(had put teflon tape around the threads where it is now leaking from) Wish I had taken the time to pet a fuel shut off inline to make it easier to drain the gas tank!:3dSMILE:
So tomorrow I will be buying a shut off that will be inline close to the tank, before the cartridge fuel filter, which will also be going in. I was recogmended Gasoila soft set sealant for fuel threads which hopefully someone will be selling around here! I also found a small leak from the waterpump/intake connection which started once the thermostat kicked open. Luckily it was just a loose clamp and easily stoped with just a little clamp tightening.
The biggest thing was when I started my timing light and saw it at 50 degrees running smoothly! I guess my number one wire is moved one space over? Chime in with your thoughts on this one! Must have something to do with either the wires or the distributor placement!
The correct setting for the cam is -5 degrees.
Steve the trucks sounds great , New to this camming stuff no no help from me here :( . But when someone chimes in I will be reading .
Had to drain tank today to fix leak in gas tank, where I foolishly used teflon tape on the fuel line port! Good thing is, now it has a gas sealant called Gasoila soft seal. Kind of a thick green paste, that my motorcycle mechanic/friend recommended yesterday. I had a tough time finding a stop cock for the fuel line, but was finally successful after going across the street from the Napa Auto Parts, to my local hardware store. I then, removed and replaced the drain plug as well as the leaking fuel line nipple, and mounted my in-line canister filter on the firewall. I think I'll have to shorten my fuel line to get the stop cock to fit in the frame member back near the gas tank, where I can mount it securely without worrying about it bouncing around, or having something snag on it.
Still haven't filled it and started it, since the cam break in on Thursday, and so I'm still stumped as to the timing being at 50 degrees and the engine running well! I'll sort that out after the stop cock is installed, and gas tank is refilled.
Anyone with any ideas about the timing? Will rescope it tomorrow.
Steve just learning this part , but I have read its good to degree but being you purchased a crate that should have been done . Maybe there they missed a step ?? Give them a call and tell them what you have , when you say it starts right up sounds good does it diesel after its warm when you cut it off . .
Thanks Bluestang
actually it idles fine, when I set the timing by sound, and shuts off normally. I haven't had a chance to fire it up since fixing my gas line. I figured I'd retime it by the light once I refill the gas tank this weekend.