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I'll post a few shots of the new tires once they get here and are installed on the truck. Funny about the old tires, they have been on there quite a while. I started this project 15 years ago, when I bought the truck. The guy I bought it from had it another 10 years, so they are at least 25 years old and were in same shape back then, look like extremely used tires bought used at a tire shop, to just keep it off the ground!
Played around with trying to figure out what would look good for rear tire height on the truck I like the taller rear stance with current LT 235/75 R15's that are on there sort of 1970's high school hot rods jacked up in back and lower in front.current stance with the old rear tires LT235/75 R15's and the new fronts that are P215/ 65 R15's
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This was seeing what 4 of the same tires would look like. So I put the the other side font tire on the back in these photos and compared the different rear tire e heights old and new.
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Trying to figure out what size tire to replace old tires in back, or to keep them the same size as they are just worried if I hit a big bump if the rears will hit the tire on their front edge as the tires are wider than the fender there. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
The taller rears would definitely get my vote.
I ended up running all the same sizes on mine. Not really the same circumstances, I was being rushed to complete to make a deadline with the state but I have no regrets. It's been a dozen years now sothe date codes are probably expired and I'll have to change them but it'll be at my pace. If you suspect they may rub and you don't want to change rim specs, then just take the easy way out, get something you know will work and move on. You'll have so many more decisions to get through.. don't worry about getting everything right the first time.. it'sa Hot Rod, they are NEVER done anyway! LOL
I think you would get by with a size taller on the back but all the same does not look bad either. I tend to put my stuff low but with your aluminum slot rims, I think the higher ride height looks better.
Thanks for input! this week I stumbled across Ford steel body parts to replace the front fenders, with new steel remakes, at half of what they were going for back to when I started this project in 2008. My front fenders(two parts each fender-uppers and lowers- have holes and other issues for both the upper and lower fenders . The lowers were so far gone I had bought the only available and affordable option years ago which were Bee Bops fiberglass lowers, now 15 years from then, they aren't a good fit, and the uppers have so much work between dents and i welding a ton of pin holes, that I started searching for new metal options. Was blow away by Summit Racing coming up in the search. Even more so that the uppers are now 599.00 each, got new lowers that were steel last week for 125.00 each. Basically now months of work not required or repair shop bills to boot for more than what the new stuff will cost, and metal is ready to paint already coated on arrival. Getting excited to work on this getting it done right the first time. I will then take the used stuff and advertise on craigslist to sell them. The same brand of steel remakes on Summit, are going upwards of 800 each on other truck supply sites.
Catching up on my reading this morning and looks like I missed a couple of your earlier posts.
“…….Trying to figure out what size tire to replace old tires in back, or to keep them the same size as they are just worried if I hit a big bump if the rears will hit the tire on their front edge as the tires are wider than the fender there. Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated……”
For what it’s worth Steve have you considered installing a bump stop between the frame and the axle to limit the axle travel when/if you ever hit that large pot hole? Seems like I’ve seen them on several different trucks over the years.
Also you might gain a little bit with the same advertised tire size with tires from a different company. Even though tires are labeled the same there are variances from company to company.
This is a pair of 235/ 70/R15s from different companies. They are mounted on identical rims and have the same 32 PSI pressure measured with the same gauge. The rear tire is a good ½” taller.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4483/3...1bfa600e_z.jpg235 70 15 2 by M Patterson, on Flickr
and the shorter tire also has a bit over a half inch wider tread width.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4507/3...ffd7c4b6_z.jpg23570 15 1 by M Patterson, on Flickr
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With my trusty "stagger tape" left over from my circle burner days, I have found "identical" tires of the same size from the same manufacturer to be as much as 3/8" difference in circumference once mounted and aired up to proper inflation. Probably from made on different days or different machines? Who knows?
Well 60 years old today and see time winding down quickly. Now that I have new front fenders, I'm looking to buy the rears next month. Working on a painting plan most of the body is rust free from when I first stripped it down over a decade ago. So it's relearning the sprayer and getting some tech support from Summit for there paint and application etc. After I get the new rear fenders I will mount one and see what the width of the tires are in comparison to a non dented original diameter. I notice the passenger side is wider than the driver-side, so maybe a slightly bent fender vs. too wide a tire. Then I'll pop for one rear new tire and see where it is in diameter compared to the currently disintegrating rubber that's on them now. After "fixing" the ever leaking left rear tire with a plug, it is now ever faster leaking! Have to laugh at the journey this truck has taken me on, and the learning curve that evolves over time.
The final painting probably will involve taking the truck to a Earl Shibe or similar place bringing my own paint for them to use, but will see. The color will be Summit Racing SU-up324 Royal Blue Pearl. When I originally bought a gallon of this I drove to their Nevada store and got color samples to get a true idea of the color. The chip was so dark it almost looked black, but taking it outside there with natural sunlight it's a deep blue. 10 years or more later looking to buy a couple gallons of the same color after using the old can on a color check of the old paint first! On there web sight it looks a lot lighter, so better to check it out first.
Anyway 60 is rolling out to be an interesting decade for sure!.
Mike P. I'll look into a bump stop too great simple solution !Thanks! Sorry for late response, got distracted with meeting a new gal and getting to know her. Another first in a long time thing!;)
".... Well 60 years old today and see time winding down quickly.......Sorry for late response, got distracted with meeting a new gal and getting to know her. Another first in a long time thing!....."
At just 60 you should have a lot of tomorrows to go. It sounds like life is good though, enjoy.
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Thanks Mike , it is good!
There goes the project!! ;):rolleyes::rolleyes:;):LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Happy birthday Stovens! Painting is a love/hate thing for me. Getting new fenders sounds like a good piece of the puzzle to get.
Yes, another case of ruination for an American male and his hot rod... Hee Hee Hee..... good for you Steve.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Thanks Ryan
Well I may be silent these days but am making some progress on replacing all metal body parts that need it. Sold rear fenders and bought steel running boards new and steel cab floor replacements kit, along with some air deflectors that didn't come with the truck but are parts original to the front end. I fire up the engine every few weeks, to keeping the carb ifrom plugging up, today though had a big surprise when it was idling it blew out oil in a spray all over the garage floor in a matter of thirty -seconds to a minute before I was able to shut it down. Not sure if the oil pan gasket blew out on the driver side or the head gasket toward the cab of the truck on the driver's side. Very glad I used a sealer on the new garage floors last year!!! I still have the inner fenders bolted on to either side of the front engine compartment so I can't get a good look at the head gasket or oil pan. Its bolted to front grill, and radiator frame that will take some time to remove since things it is bolted thru have a sequence to removing them. If anyone has a guess based on the spraying efect of 3-4 quarts of oil in a very short period of time but no water or radiator fluid please chime in , Thanks Steve
Hard to say without knowing where the oil was coming from, but I'd be looking at the threaded ports for measuring oil pressure, to see if a plug backed out or a line to a guage failed!
Thanks Roger. This engine isn't hooked up to gauges but I will check the sensor that is plugged into the intake, the fact that only oil went spraying out, makes me think it wasn't the head gasket, since the only time I've had head gasket problems were in conjunction with water and oil mixing, and that was on a jeep cj7. The oil definitely came from the firewall driver side so oil pressure sensor makes the most sense, or the oil pan, not Sure if the oil pans get that kind of pressure! Hope you are right because that is an easy fix compared to other choices! Yesterday I wasn't thinking too clearly after quickly trying to contain the oil flooding thgarage floor. Took about 2 hours to get that done, but cment looks clear and normal this morning so the sealant worked well on the new concrete slab!
Well I just chatted with my mechanic friend who thru a matter of deduction thinks the seal to the oil filter probably leaked or it came lose, which would explain the high pressure spray. no oil any where near the oil sensor, so that is ruled out, and no pressure that high in oil pan to spray out so fast, and a head gasket leak wouldn't be under that kind of pressure. Since the oil filter bare has any on on it I'm guessing that's not it maybe the main bearing seal in back it'll have to wait until I get another day off from work so I can explore under the truck. its definately the most coated with oil spray right towards the driverside fire wall coating the steering shaft where it is connected to the steering gear box. Ugh!.
I don't recall what engine you're running in the truck, but there are often a couple of ports into the oil pump outlet area, giving you a choice where to put your sending unit. To spray out that much oil it has to be on the pump discharge side, supplying oil to the engine, not the drain side like the pan. The oil filter backing off is a good possibility! Good luck, and hoping you didn't starve the engine before getting it shut down!
Roger it's a 1971 460. I shut the engine off immediately when I heard and saw the oil spraying, within a few seconds, it kept spewing out uinder pressure for a bit. I've been reading up that the oil pump has a pressure relief valve that can blow back itno the pan, and also if it's gasket fails it can leak back pressure into oil pan. Think I might have mechanic friend take it to his shop where he has several lifts to get a better idea on where the source of the leak was. I agree there aren't to many choices here. I will have to wait a while before I have a break from work and other priorities to look for the obvious and crawl under it. The truck was only running a few minutes when this happened, oil wasn't hot and headers seemed cool enough not to smoke when oil got on the driver side header pipe.
".......Well I just chatted with my mechanic friend who thru a matter of deduction thinks the seal to the oil filter probably leaked or it came lose......"
Without seeing the car in person, I would come to the same conclusion as your mechanic.
However "....... its definately the most coated with oil spray right towards the driverside fire wall coating the steering shaft where it is connected to the steering gear box....."
Are you sure it's engine oil and not power steering fluid?
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I actualy gort a day off work yesterday so I was able to jack the front up and do a crawl thru I wiped down oil and took pictures with my cell phone. I could not find any obvious are of an oil leak. the spray area definitely coincides with the level of the oil filter where it screws in. I also noticed the filter was about an 1/8" from seated flush with the base of the filter mount screwed in as far as it goes, I'm thinking the auto parts store gave me the wrong size filter last year. I'll get a new one today before work and see if that is the issue. As to power steering fluid this truck is bare bones basic at the momment so no heater, no power steering, etc. The clincher there is the oil pan dip stick shows a very smaill amount of oil left(think way below the safe fluid level.) Fingers crossed this is the issue. Next question - what oil do you guys recommend. I have to check what I bought last time I added ZDDP with all of the oil changes since building the engine, but have heard a few people meantion oils with zinc already added. Thanks for all your feed back!
Steve, I believe you're going to find that the Ford engines of that era all used the same basic oil filter, the MotorCraft FL1A or equivalent from other suppliers, like WIX 51515 with ¾-16 thread and Gasket 2.834" O.D. & 2.462 I.D. I've seen spin on oil filters missing the flat rubber o-ring gasket that fits into a recessed ring on top of the filter unit, and on occasion have seen that gasket stick to the oil filter adapter on the block which means two gaskets - one stuck on the block adapter and one on the new filter, which doesn't work so good if it's not noticed.
I was thinking like Roger. Possibly 2 seals between the filter and block. An easy test, As long as there is oil anywhere on the dipstick. disable the distributor by either unplugging the center hi voltage wire or (preferred) pull the 12 volt supply. And simply crank the motor for say 8 to 10 seconds.
Then look around for evidence of the oil leaking. Since it was recently running it shouldn't take much to move oil and build pressure.
Cheap and easy = cost effective.
Thanks guys, that is really a good place to start. I got the new filter and oil yesterday, so tomorrow I'll try the leak test, and look to see if there are any old ring washers causing a double washer issue, would explain a lot! Randy also mentioned that the filters are all the same size for the 460's from the early 70's, mines a 71 block. He also mentioned I should be using a much higher viscosity oil and suggested 20/50. I had read up that the clearances can be much wider on bearings ect for these old big blocks, and am guessing that is what he was alluding to. My last oil change I think I was using 5 or 10/30 which he felt was much too thin., I could be wrong because my memory isn't what it used to be, and the shelf with my extra oil cans is currently blocked with a bunch of boxed new fenders, running boards, floor replacement sheets, etc. still in their boxes. I'll move those tomorrow and see what I can find as I need to add some ZDDP zinc additive to add to the new oil.
This will stir the pot but. I am not a fan of 20/50 oils, unless the motor struggles to get oil pressure. I prefer a 10w30 or 10w40 oil. And I am not a fan of zinc additive. It's been proven to just lay in the bottom of the oil pan. There are a couple oils that still have the zinc needed for 70's motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
But, here's my disclaimer, :LOL: I follow the golden rule. Since you are spending your gold you make the rules! :3dSMILE:
Great news, and thanks for the advice 34_40 and Roger. Pulled the distributor power wire off after first meticulously feeling for any oil residue around the rim, then cranked it for a few second and goat a few drips seeping out. Pulled filter and looked from under the truck up to the engine filter housing, and sure enough a second oil ring gasket I missed when I changed the oil last year. The reason the filter never set flush to the oil filter mount on the engine block. Relieved and feeling a bit stupid for missing that a year ago, maybe a beer 30 mistake back then. Good new should be coming, draining rest of pan and the will put new oil in and fire her up. Should be fine! After this last year of financial emergencies from dog breast cancer, to convertible rood replacement to stollen tax returns, I kind of go zero to 60 when another problem jumps out to bite me, this one should be no big deal! Thanks again you guys as a group share a ton of knowledge that I really value. Steve
Glad to hear the result!! Great news, and great that it happened in your garage and not flying down the highway at WOT!!
Yep, my truck seems to give me brakes all the time. Last year when it had a split in the fuel line that didn't appear, but would starve gas, I crawled under truck that had been sitting out side to find leaves soak in gas when I tried to trace the leak, I lifter the rubber fuel tubing and there was a huge split that gushed gas out. Had the truck fired up, with this leak right above the passenger muffler, I may not be here today. I guess it pays to have a truck that miss behaves before it lets me suffer the consequence's! Just finished the oil change and everything working fine now. I found my ZDDP container, it's actually SFR Oil Fortifier with ZDDP in it. Now maybe I can get back to prepping for primer and then paint.
I'm glad you got that figured out. Our new guy at work did this a few years ago but the funny thing was, it was on an airport cargo tractor. The oil filter is below the frame line. He started the unit, walked to the LH side by the front tire, and when it got oil pressure, it soaked his pants. :LOL: Double seal for the win. :LOL:
Yeah I had a gasket stick to the oil filter adapter once with the inevitable results. Usually once is all it takes to religiously check each oil change (something I hammered into Cade over the years too).
Best one I ever ran into was when I was working at a gas station in St Louis around 1970. One evening when I came in the owner had a Tri-5 chevy up on the rack and wanted me to do oil change on it. It had had the original canister style filter on it so I pulled the can got the gasket out and put a new filter and gasket on. I was about to let it down when the boss came over and asked if I got the old gasket out and I told him I had, even showed it to him. Then he asked if I had checked for any additions gaskets stuck up the in the recess the gasket sits in......I told him no. So he had me pull the new filter and gasket back off and take a thin screwdriver to the gasket recess......there were 4 old gaskets stuck up there. Learned a lesson that night LOL.
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Yeah this one lasted over a year before blowing! In all the years I've done oil changes never had this happen, but you can bet it won't happen again until dementia sets in! LOL
It wouldn't had made it 2 blocks if you started to drive it though. :LOL: You got lucky it showed it's self for you now and saved you a tow and aggravation.
Time for an overdue Update. After working a lot of overtime I was able to replace all the dented and rusted fenders, and replace the fiberglass with steel running boards and front and rear fenders, as well as steel inner front fenders. I then reached out to my mechanic friend who recommended I talk with his painter friend about how to proceed with painting. I am using Summit Racing. It is a Single stage Acrylic Urethane "Royal Blue Pearl" that with have the appropriate layering of base epoxy primer also summit, and then high build prime followed by top coat. This paint system does not use clear coat which is fine for me. Randy's paint shop friend agreed I should prime all the new steel parts separate from the Body, then do any dents with Bondo, followed by high build primer . At that point, I will bolt everything on, and if I can afford it have his shop do the top coat finish paint. This will take some time as its getting to cold and potentially too wet to do any painting until spring. That's the plan at least!! Might get friend across street to do some minor repairs to the hood, and the bed of truck will need some plug welding and filling the best that I can, because buying a new bed is not in the budget!. I've purposely stopped working on the truck over the last few years as I realized the former owners put a lot of bondy all around the truck, directly over the rusted fenders, to where there was no point in painting until that was delt with, so now it's time to move forward once again. It helps also taking things slower to think out where I want to go with this project.
any way here is a picture of the now filled garage space of all the new steel parts.
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Baby steps are forward progress! Congrats on the new parts!
Looks like Xmas in there! What'cha gonna do with the parts you take off?