I haven't changed u joints since the late 60's but I do remember using sockets the same size to press them out with a bench vice.
Richard
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I haven't changed u joints since the late 60's but I do remember using sockets the same size to press them out with a bench vice.
Richard
Got redirected elsewhere today, so after a few hours of fighting traffic, I got home late afternoon. Wanted to at least scratch one item off the bullet list, so I pounded out the ball joint closest to the differential and poped in the new one. It was actually quite easy, I guess letting it soak in penetrating oil for 24 hours didn't hurt a thing. And a craftsman 3/4 inch socket is perfect to use as a pounding shaft that fits the diameter almost perfectly. I didn't feel too bad, the socket didn't get harmed(and I have a spare from my brother's tool set he gave me when he washed his hands of anything mechanical!:LOL:)
I guess Monday will be a car day to get stuff done. Still scratch one thing off a multipage list!:D
Yuppers, getting one thing done is better then getting nothing done Steve.... The days I don't like are when you try to get one thing done.....and create 3 new things to do!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:
Anyways, engine is looking great! As for fitting brackets...they never come out of the box and bolt right on, do they????
I have used a large(6",) heavy duty C-clamp with a socket to remove U-joints when they are still in the car and you don't want to remove the driveshaft to get to a bench vise. Just make sure they are HD because I have broken a cheapie (AKA made in China) in two while doing this with a stubborn joint. Just remove the clips, then use a big enough socket to allow the cup to go inside and drive the other clip through with the C-clamp.
with the drive line ready to go in, I tried to rough fit it with no luck. Seems the new differential is longer combined with the engine mounted farther back. With the help of a few members I found a local shop that specializes in customizing drive shafts, so they are on the job. I also was able to drill and mount the gas tank today, so little more progress done. Hopefully I'll get the plumbing done for the gas line and or the floor boards painted and permanently mounted and sealed in place this week. Then it's wiring and startup time!:3dSMILE:
The drive shaft is something you just about have to expect to be cut, and made to fit but a good machine shop can get them balanced pretty well. Won’t be long till the neighbors will be calling the law.
I couldn’t sleep so I woke up the wife, and started reminiscing about our first neighborhood, it was an older subdivision we were the new kids on the block. Every time I fired up the 39 Ford coupe, which I still have, the neighbor lady would call the police.
It’s nice to be the bad ass on the block, wish those day’s were still around!!
Richard
Yeah Richard, there were a few times a couple of years ago, when a transient guy moved in with the renters next door. Everyday he would sit outside from 10 a.m. until about 2 a.m. smoking and talking nonstop. In the evening he would start bon fires about 3 feet from my fence under my second story bedroom window. I lost about 6 months of sleep during that time. I tried at first to talk with them, then the landlord, finally the police and fire department. The whole neighborhood signed a petition to the landlord which finally kicked the guy off the property. One of his buddies would just say I got my rights to be out here and talk all I want. So around that time I took to 8a.m Harley Tuneups outside his bedroom window, and one day left the rototiller run until it ran out of gas, that was the only thing that seemed to get thru his thick skull!
Mostly we all get along now days, mind those renters are gone, so it will be mid day starts and no idling in the back by their bedrooms.
But I am getting antsy to get this one fired up.:D
The nice thing about taking the drive shaft in to the shop, was he pointed out that my 68 9" differential could have many different sized universal joints, so he sent me home with two testers which have two different diameter bearings on each set. One is 1 1/8" and the other is 1 1/16th ". The difference between the two universal joints is also the width of the joint. Turns out mine takes a smaller narrower config to the diff. I would have never known, until the shaft was the right length, so one step saved!
Steve, as I get older I just want piece, and quiet even though we live in the country we still have to put up with disorderly young guy's (like I was at one time) now it's with neighbors dog's running wild. I told the young neighbor finally that no one wants to live next to a bad neighbor. He said yea I know, the young guys next to me party late into the night with loud music. It's always different when someone else is disturbing the piece.
That was real helpful information about the universal joints, could have been frustrating.
Richard
Got the gas tank plumbed in today. I went with aluminum 3/8 inch fuel line along the frame rail, and then put 3/8 inch fuel hose to the pump and up to the carb. I also connected the brake booster vacuum, to the back of the new carb, and connected the pcv valve to the front of the carb.
I decided to hold off putting in the canister fuel filter, ball shut off valve and stainless lines, until I have a better idea of where the exhaust will be. I just need gas to the carb for engine startup and breakend for now, shiny stuff can wait until later. After I connected the gas hose from the carb to the out let on the fuel pump, I found the original steel fuel line still connected to the original fuel pump in a box. I spent some time cleaning it up and will probably paint it black, and connect the braided stainless lines to that or not, later.
I tried hooking up my cable shifter, and am stimmied as to where the two bolt bracket, near the end of the cable, bolts to? It seems there are no bolt holes anywhere that would work, except two adjacent pan bolts! I thought I took a picture of it before disconnecting it originally but can't find it. The bracket is triangular shaped and is very close to the end that connects to the shifter linkage. I have no idea who makes the shifter, so nowhere to get original instructions! The reason the pan bolts don't make sense is the pan has a lip that curves downward, so a washer or two would be needed to keep the bracket mounted flat.
I set aside some time today and tomorrow for the truck. I love my wife, she's doing my house and yard duties letting me spend some guilt free hours on the truck. I took the fitted floor panel patches out today, and coated them with Por 15. While I was garbed up to keep that stuff off of me, I painted some scuffed frame areas and also hit the used 9" differential and axle and brake backing plates with it as well. What a difference a little paint makes! Here are also some shots of the above, plus the gas tank in with the temp rubber lines for startup and shake down. I'm a little worried about where to run my vent line for the gas tank. Right now it's slightly below the top of the tank. Once the bed is remounted I can probably mount the breather to the bottom of it and be above the tank. I also need to put in my fuel shut off valve and mount the canister fuel filter, but am not sure if it should be mounted to the rear by the tank or if there will be room in the engine compartment once the exhaust is installed with the headers in place! We'll see. Thanks everyone for the encouraging words, and I apologise for posting the little stuff!:eek::D
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...aspor15001.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...aspor15003.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...aspor15004.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...aspor15005.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...aspor15007.jpg
Steve, everything is looking good tank, 9" rear, frame, plumbing plus the panels for the floor. :cool:
That por is good stuff but if you have to paint it inside it's really strong, it looks like you may have done the painting outside.
I haven't even got the radiator in yet, I've been working on the air conditioner, it seems like they only go out when it's in the hottest part of the year. We are also trying to get some junk cleaned up so the excavator can clear some huge pine trees. My wife keeps finding old cars, and I need more room. Have cars no time to work on them!! :)
Your doing good keep it up
Richard
Thanks! The inside of the cab is also done, and boy did it stink, not to mention drip on my head! Hats are a life saver! Hope to start wiring tomorrow.
I did the rear end of a 67 Nova inside the garage it was pretty strong. The POR is not cheap either $100 a gallon and that was about 5 years ago. It smelled like roofing tar thinned down, it may have something else but it sure is strong. It finally stopped raining so I'm going to make my way outside. If I shut the computer off it would be easier to get out, I can't walk by without checking new post!!!
Richard
Got a few more small things done today. Called B&M for help on mounting the cable link floor shifter. Had no idea who made the one in the truck until I was down on the floor boards painting the newly caulked seams. And there on the side of the shifter was B&M!:3dSMILE:
Turns out it does mount to the pan, utilizing spacers to keep it flat while bolting over the pan lip! While I was at it, I put the larger tranny pan on which is also ventilated made by Derale. Need to check with the guy whose customizing the drive shaft tomorrow. Then just a few weeks of savings towards the new radiator, and I should be able to fire this beast up!:cool::3dSMILE
I thought about trying to start it with the old radiator, but then I need to disconnect fluid lines, waste coolant, and synthetic tranny fluid, make a mess...might as well start with all new stuff! hell it's taken since October to get the engine together and in, so whats a few more weeks!
Yeah, what's the rush anyway???? I reference my 17 year long pick-em-up project......:LOL::LOL::LOL:......which I hope to fire up this month sometime.....or August for sure....
I hope it's comes together a little faster!:LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
It must feel good to complete the truck though! I've had a few longterm projects that I never let go, out of shear stuberness, that felt great when they were completed!
Got the radiator ordered up today, and connected the carb linkage and the transmission kick down cable. I went with a lokar cable set which matched the accelerator petal and made to work with the edelbrock carb. It was pretty straight foward except the cable housing on the gas pedal end, sliped pasthub that holds it taunt againts the pedal bracket, so I had to bolt the cable housing to the firewall in two places to keep it from moving with the cable. Works pretty well, we'll see once it fires up and hits the road.:D
Whittling away small stuff this week. In between big projects to the house, I've been working on small stuff on the truck while I wait on the arrival of the drive shaft and radiator. I put in the starter and a cheap saddle blanket seat cover, and went around the frame tightening up everything I could think of. Was going to put the distributor back in, but decided to leave that until right before startup so I can prime the oil pump immediately before I do the initial startup.
I don't have time for bigger stuff until next month, but that is also busy as deer season starts and vacation with the family happens.Still it feels good getting even small stuff done.:cool:
Steve looks like it won't be too long for you to fire it up . Hope you do a you tube and let us hear it . You have done some great work to this truck . Keep whittling away .
Oh well, no rush!!!! You sure you aren't just delaying the start up to make me feel better about not getting mine done??????:LOL::LOL::LOL: Speaking of deer season, got a car in the shop that was out "hunting" Bambi out of season, $3800 damage to the car, 1 dead Bambi....Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Youch!!!Better a car than a motorcycle!:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Got the driveshaft back from the shop just now. He gave me a break on the price which was nice since it's been at his shop for awhile!:3dSMILE:
Sometimes it pays not to be in a hurry!
The radiator was also sent out this week and is scheduled to arrive on Tuesday next week. So no it's close to connecting and filling the fluids up! Any ideas as to what type of cap to buy? Should I get one of those pressure release ones or is a cool billet one o.k.? He said 16lbs., and at least a one quart over flow tank!
Meantime I got most of the house stuff done for my wife's up and coming over the hill birthday bash, so that's nice too! Last week when working on the accellerator connections I noticed the cable housing slipped past the gromet that is suppose to keep it in place. Not sure if I return it to Summit or Lokar, or ask for a new one? Anyway then countdown is much closer now!:)
Well all the side projects for my wife's big Birthday bash paid off yesterday. We had a live Jazz band pumping out some great tunes, lots of good folks celebrating the big 40 with her, and the house and yard looked great. A big kick for me was all the little kids asking to sit in the truck! At one point 4 of them were in there pretending to drive. One little fellow almost cried when it was time to get out, but a quick diversion of playing with the dogs helped.
So now it is back to the truck without any more distractions!
The radiator never showed up this week. I guess they left the street name off the adress label. It made it to california from michigan, only to go back to it's starting point, it's back out here in UPS space suppose to arrive tomorrow. Once I unpack it I'll be able to figure out what sort of fan setup will work. Right now I think it will have to be a pusher. Not sure how many CFM's I will need? Anyone with experience in this area please lend me your knowledge! (for refreshers it's a 460 with 750 carb, edelbrock performer intake, mild cam, c6 auto trans, headers, etc..)
I almost forgot, after three runs to the parts store for universal joint straps, I got the right set for my application, and finaly got it in, fits great!
Got the new radiator custom made from Superior Radiator in Michigan. It was less than half of the cost from some big internet rad. sites. These guys gaurentee it for two years, so I let you know how it works out if some of you need custom built aluminum radiators for around 300.00 bucks. All welded no epoxy, here are some shots
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ovens/rad2.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ovens/rad1.jpg
Thanks Alan. I measured it up and this sucker is big. It should take up to a 19 inch pusher fan just not sure what type. I've heard great stuff about spal, summit makes them a lot cheaper but haven't heard anyone using their name brand setups!
Some shots with it temp in place. It's tall but should clear the hood.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...tovens/ra1.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...tovens/ra2.jpg
Well I finally got an upper radiator hose from summit that looks nice and should custom bend to fit. It actually was pretty cheap for a braided line. The bottom hose came yesterday. It will involve major altercations to fit the short run from the water pump to the bottom of the radiator(it is 2" on one end and 1 3/4" on the other, with a built in 90 degree. It's just too long and not bent quite enough.
On the summer projects note, my wife's 40th Birthday bash was a tremendous hit, My first deer hunt was a success( I think the deer jumped up to make it easier for me) and with vacation just a week away, it's been imposible to get anything done on the truck, but order parts. Next I'm going to get the pusher fan. It has space for a 19" diameter fan, it seems what's availible varies quite a bit! I'm not sure about CFM's required for my mild build 460 with c-6. Any suggestions? I'd like to keep it under 200 bucks for the price, but will buy something that comes highly recommended, if it is more, vs. an unknown. Summit has a few for 70 bucks and temp controlled on off relays for 40-50 bucks. What do you think?
[QUOTE=Evolvo;360199]Thanks Alan, I resemble that comment!!!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
Who me?:LOL::LOL::eek:
Thanks, I was planning to just vice grip clamp it for start up, then mount it permanent later, but it would be nice to get the hood off the floor, since my garage space keeps shrinking as stuff like a new freezer move out there!:)
Well I was motivated by the losing interest thread and by the fact I want to get this new 460 started. So I cleared some space in the garage, and started playing with radiator hoses and after some mods, got both the upper and lower hoses on. The radiator wants to sit farther back than originaly where the 48 mounts are. So I figured I'd check the clearance and put the hood on there. While I was at it I fixed the hood latch handle that has baffled me for years!
So I carefully covered the radiator top and wrestled the hood opn(wife taking nap, no helpers) and bam it fits just fine foward. Which means no pusher fan, no electric fan, just a nice stock one! Solves several problems and saves me some cash! Yah hooo! Anyway I should have done this weeks ago, so thank you all who post your progress to get me motivated!:3dSMILE:
Now I just need to fabricate some radiator mounts unless anyone knows of some aftermarket ones. Also I recall reading here that I want to just mount the sides not the bottom so the is play and the radiator isn't torn apart, is that correct? Thanks here's a few photos.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atorfab003.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atorfab007.jpg
note that the squeezed hose on the frame will actually be elevated to prevent this
And here is the new clearance I gained.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atorfab011.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...atorfab004.jpg
Should work just fine!! On street cars, I still prefer to use the stock mechanical fan whenever it's possible!!! With a good shroud, they'll cool just fine.
bulletproof, bulletproof, bulletproof.Quote:
Originally Posted by dave severson
Got the new spacer and flex fan. Had a chance to eyeball everything and was able to use the original radiator mount with 3" bolts to bolt the new radiator in place. The clearance to the front of the fan from the radiator is about 1/2" right now, so tomorrow I'll get 4" inch bolts and that should give me a little more than an inch clearance. I also plan on cutting small pieces of pipe to use as spacers between the bolts and old radiator mount to keep the radiator from slipping into the fan, even the the tension from the hoses pretty much make that impossible right now. Here are a few shots as she sits now.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../radfit003.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../radfit001.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../radfit004.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c.../radfit006.jpg
Looks great Steve. With all that core area you should have no overheating problems. Like Dave said, put a shroud for sure so it pulls from all over the core, not just in a circle the diameter of the fan.
Coming along great bud. :):)
Don
Don - I will try and get someone to help build one. I wish I had your skills with metal and the tools to fabricate one myself! And thanks for the kind words! Not sure how to go about it, might have to mock something up in cardboard and then go to my local welder and have him do the metal work. He's a nice guy and is reasonable(make that dambed nice) for what he charges!:cool:
Been awhile since I've gotten out to workon the truck. Last week I reorders a new accelerator cable to fix my stuck to the floor gas pedal problem. It came in the mail today, so hopefully tomorrow or soon after, I'll be recovered enough to start wiring the engine, and ultimately getting it started, before it siezes from neglect! I have turned it over by hand a few times and primed the oil pump shaft using the primer Tech recogmended. Anyway, I'm getting excited to get back on this project. Thanks for following this thread. Steve.
Got out to garage and did a decent amount of finishing lose end stuff. I was able to finish installing the radiator(needed two spacers from hardware store). Next I connected the transmission coolant lines to the radiator, then fabricated some metal tubing into a vacuum line from the transmission modulator to another port in the intake manifold. Found my old stock exhaust manifolds and took the donut connectors off along with about 18 inches of old pipe, without striping any bolts. Cleaned off the manifolds washed down, and set out to dry(black widows had found a nice home in there!:eek:
One of the manifolds has a hairline crack in the middle of the front side, which I hope won't matter, since I just want to bolt these on for engine break in and initial start up. My Sanderson headers say not to install them until after breakin, as this could cause blemishing in the ceramic coatings. So I'm hoping the old manifolds will work for a few weeks! Another question that comes to mind is should I cut some short pieces of exhaust pipe to temperarily connect the old mufflers for the time being, or can I just run the straight stock manifolds?
Any help here would be appreciated as always. My goal is to get the wiring done next, and start and break in the engine before new year. I hope after that things will start coming together faster. All of my other distractions are over for winter and spring(deer season is over, and all the summer house projects are done). Anyways felt good to get back to work on the beast again. I guess I just needed a break to get remotivated. It also helps reading everyone elses threads!
[QUOTE=stovens;369279]Got out to garage and (snip)* nifolds and took the donut connectors off along with about 18 inches of old pipe, without striping any bolts. Cleaned off the manifolds washed down, and set out to dry(black widows had found a nice home in there!:eek: (snip)
Spiders --- UGH. That's why I tolerate the cold and the snow here in Maine.
Wow, you're gonna have yours going before I get mine going! :CRY: :p
Perley
I'd say put piece of pipe in there temporarily, I like to run new engines with the exhaust and muffler in place to listen for any "strange" sounds...