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yes the low grade junk you can weld with steel filler rod i welded some of the turbo buick v6 headers that was very close to just plane steel**) i allways was told that the hi 300 would not turn or rust and have some and it looks just fineQuote:
Originally Posted by gottabuild1
Where I work we build some stainless tanks for a chemical company and we have to have certified 316-L. It is supposed to be for corrosion resistance.
Bug
I made lots of Medical Instruments when I was in business,both 300 & 400 series.We called one particular Instrument a cookie cutter and was used to cut a hole in the ---- bone so the surgeon could get a the hip bone.It was the heat treatable type 400 series. They were sharpened after heat treating and highly polished, never saw one rust after being in use . 300 series will not heat treat,400 series will.Do you think the heat treat kept it from rusting? Maybe the cleaning of the Instrument by the Hospital kept them from rusting.
Hoss I just don't know???????????????
there is diferent grades of 400 ss i did some 4 inch down tubes for a turbo car they were polish they never rusted but did turn a deep gold from the heat i used 308 filler rod and did not turn gold look just like it did when it was newly polished and never seen any heat
i will ask our inspection recieving dept. today and get the final word on what may or may not rust .. iv`e always understood " rust " to be a metals way of giving itself a self protective coating and " corrosion " to be the actual eroding away of the metals.. so would a better question be .. does stainless corrode ..?
so i got to ask! Are the bumpers for my 49 stainless?:confused: they are rusty but when i scrape the rust spots with my thumbnail and tongue in cheek it comes off:HMMM: :LOL: :HMMM:
OK, gotta throw my 2 cents in....
What you are calling "stainless" is typically referred to on engineering drawings as "CRS" or corrosion resistant steel. For a good, short overview of the types of CRS, go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and then enter "stainless" in the search box. There is a page called "about stainless" that has some good info regarding the properties of each grade.....but remember it's "corrosion resistant"....not rustproof. Corrosion and rust are two different things.
good point robot :D
Obviously, it is time for this . . .
Damn, I always thought CRS was "Can't Remember Shit".:eek: :whacked:Quote:
CRS" or corrosion resistant steel
Now I not sure what my doctor was talking about.:LOL: :LOL:
I thought "CRS" was Cold Rolled Steel, the way the sheet stock was formed at the mill?
Cheers, Mark
[QUOTE=mopar34]Damn, I always thought CRS was "Can't Remember Shit".:eek: :whacked: [quote] i seam to have alot more of that CRS in stock:whacked:
Once I got my chit together!!!!! Now if I could just remember where I left it!!!!!!!!!!
So, for headers do I want to use 400 stainless or ???????
What about chrome, does it rust? I've always thought that it was the steel undeneath the chrome which bled thru and rusted. Seems to me that chromed stainless would be about rust proof?
Stainless doesn't seem to cut with a torch either. I've melted through it but it sure don't cut well.
At my last job, I welded in a patch on a stainless door frame which was getting ate thru by sulphuric acid. Like a big ninny, I used the regular mig wire to weld in the patch, and figured the weld would rot out. But surprise, the patch material just rotted away regardless. I guess the moral of that story is that sulphuric acid is some bad $hit.
Ive been pondering making a huge hammer form to remake the roof for my 36 chevy. Stainless would be way cool, but the stuff is heavier. Would probably need to go to a thinner guage to compensate for the weight.
Any opinions on using stainless for patch panels? tips, advice, sarcastic comments?